Minnesota Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

Moderator: ttownshaw

Post Reply
brockj
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj » Mon Nov 04, 2019 8:25 am

I finally decided to to start a topic to track my build. I wanted to start a post as I found other posts tracking a build to be very helpful and influential in my decision to take on this project. Technically the project started about a month ago, but much of the last month has been spent preparing my very small space for the build. In fact, my space is so small, I am not sure I could build anything larger than a squirt.

In preparation I asked questions and did A LOT of research. I started a couple topics here focusing on epoxy viewtopic.php?f=5&p=213038#p213038 and plywood viewtopic.php?t=35297. I also scoured the forum for any tips or information I could find. I ordered the plans and fastener kit from Glen L, and got most of my epoxy supplies locally. I also picked up a copy of Boatbuilding with Plywood.

As for lumber, I decided to go with African Mahogany, available locally for $6.70/bf and scored a heck of deal on some 2 inch "spindles" to be used for the sheers and chines:
IMG_6371.JPG


You may also notice a MASSIVE 21" board that will supply most of the lumber:
IMG_6372.JPG
For the plywood framing I went with Douglas Fir as it was available right away:
IMG_6387.JPG

brockj
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj » Mon Nov 04, 2019 8:31 am

As a follow up to previous post, I made a lot of progress this previous weekend now that my VERY small space is mostly ready to go:
59389801637__F4EE3E89-0453-4CBC-A62D-5DD9FBCECF91.JPG
I was able to assemble the frames (the transom had already been assembled), cut the 12* angle on the transom, and rip up all of the lumber for the sheers and chines. I have to say, that made A TON of dust!
IMG_6428.JPG
Being that I am going to stretch the Squirt to 11' I needed to join multiple pieces for each lamination. I followed the advice of 1/12 for the scarf joints and made up a simple jig to use to rip the scarf on my table saw:
IMG_6427.JPG
Worked out very well. I have the sheers gluing up now, but the temps are quite cold right now so it will probably be a week before I can move on to the chines. In the meantime, I might move my frames inside for encapsulation this week.

User avatar
vupilot
Posts: 3478
Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2009 7:36 am
Location: Indy
Contact:

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by vupilot » Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:21 pm

Thanks for posting, look forward to watching your progress.

Hercdrvr
Posts: 976
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Hercdrvr » Mon Nov 04, 2019 3:17 pm

Looks like a good start.
Matt B

JimmY
Posts: 834
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY » Tue Nov 05, 2019 10:29 am

Looking good.

I know you are using solid chines and sheers, but if they are over sized enough, consider ripping them down and laminating them when you install them. It will be a lot easier to bend them into place. Otherwise, look at how others have steam bent their chines.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj » Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:03 am

Thank you all for the support! I decided to move the chines and sheers inside the basement to help them cure a little faster, high temps are right around freezing.
JimmY wrote:
Tue Nov 05, 2019 10:29 am
I know you are using solid chines and sheers, but if they are over sized enough, consider ripping them down and laminating them when you install them. It will be a lot easier to bend them into place. Otherwise, look at how others have steam bent their chines.
Jimmy, actually I am doing lamination's for both the chines and sheers, I was able to pick up the 2"x2" spindles so cheap I figured it was good stock to cut the lamination's from. I went with 5/8"x1 1/4" and 3/8"x 1 3/4" for each lamination and ran them about 13.5' long which I figure should be long enough when stretching the Squirt to 11'.

I figure it is never to early to pickup some parts for down the road, a local store is closing and had MAS fiberglass at a steal of a price. Looking at the kit for the Squirt they showed 4 1/3 yards of 50" and 4 1/3 yards of 38".
IMG_6431.jpg
I picked up 3 (10.8 yards) of the 44' and 1 (3.1 yards) of the 38". I also picked up an additional gallon of the low viscosity resin. The price was so low I am embarrassed to share what I paid :shock:

Anyway, that is my progress so far this week. If I can get out of my meeting tonight I am hoping to glue up the floor timber and deck beam for frame 2 and start encapsulating frame 1.

brockj
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj » Mon Nov 11, 2019 8:24 am

Was able to make a bit of progress over the past week (most of it on Sunday). Glued up the chines on Wednesday of last week, then Sunday I started encapsulating the frames, wasn't sure how this would go, but worked out pretty well.

The sheers turned out pretty good:
IMG_6435.jpg
The encapsulation was a time consuming process. Picked up some screen printing squeegee to spread out the epoxy then tipped it off with a foam brush. I tried to get two coats on the transom, the transom knee, the breasthook and one side of frame 1. Turned out pretty well, though it seems frame 1 soaked up quite a bit. Was very pleased with how the transom turned out.
IMG_6436.jpg
Will try to get to frame 2 and the other half of frame 1 during the week, then try to a light sand and final coat of everything with hopes of mounting the framing to building frame next weekend.

JimmY
Posts: 834
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY » Mon Nov 11, 2019 10:25 am

Lookin good. Your scarf joints turned out nice.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

Post Reply

Return to “Small outboards”