Minnesota Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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DrBryanJ
Posts: 1082
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 6:05 am
Location: Pompton Plains, NJ

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by DrBryanJ » Tue Jan 28, 2020 11:29 am

If you're concerned about the thickness of the chine, it is fairly simple to add a backer piece to increase thickness.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

brockj
Posts: 25
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj » Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:11 pm

Not as much concerned about thickness as much as landing surface for the side planking. Not sure if you can tell from the photos:
Attachments
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JimmY
Posts: 931
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY » Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:36 pm

It will be fine, be aware of where the chine is when drilling for nails or screws.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

hoodman
Posts: 2326
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by hoodman » Fri Jan 31, 2020 9:20 pm

Keep at it, you're doing a really nice job.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

brockj
Posts: 25
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj » Mon Mar 02, 2020 2:53 pm

Been a while since I last posted an update. Have not had much time to work on the boat with a couple hunting trips and getting sick, but I did spend some hours this weekend shaping up the stem for fairing. Actually starting to get close to the plywood planking!

PittsS1
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2018 11:15 am

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by PittsS1 » Tue Mar 03, 2020 11:05 pm

Hi Brockj,

Great following along with your build, as I'm also just in the planning stages for a Squirt build and located just west of Minneapolis. Have been reading for a while, also picked up the Boatbuilding with Plywood book, and some supplies.

Would you mind sharing some of your local suppliers? I was fortunate enough to pick up some african mahogany before Youngblood Lumber went out of business (a very sad day and I'm still sad about it...), but haven't really found another hardwood supplier. Have stopped out to Midwest Boat Appeal for pricing on mahogany and ply, and have purchased some stuff from Logs to Lumber in Inver Grove in the past as well. Where did you end up getting your mahogany? And did you go with Midwest for ply? I had seen on another thread you were considering getting it there or ordering online for a better price.

Finally, MAS epoxies appears to be right in St Paul? I've also used Express Composites in Northeast in the past for fiberglass projects, but never tried their marine resins. Hoping to be able to purchase locally just for convenience, but may also just get from GlenL for their expertise and seems to be a great product.

At any rate, great work so far and I look forward to seeing more progress, would appreciate any insight you have on suppliers.

Pat

Otter
Posts: 23
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2018 6:11 pm
Location: Anoka, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Otter » Sat Mar 07, 2020 6:15 pm

Pat:
I live in NW metro (near Anoka) and am working on a Ski-Bass. I went with Midwest Boat Appeal for plywood. They are great to work with, and I really don't know of any other local sources. I got my African Mahogany from a lumber distributor in eastern Wisconsin, called Granite Valley Hardwoods. I'm not sure if they will delivery to MN (I had them deliver to my parents place just across the border in Wisconsin), but I would check, anyway....they were pretty cheap: https://www.granitevalley.com/
I believe I got the african mahogany for about $4.00 / bd ft. It came in 7/8" thickness (rough planed). Minimum order is 250 bd. ft.
As for epoxy, it seems easiest just to order on-line. I'm using West System simply because I'm familiar with it from previous builds, and you can get that at West Marine locally....but I don't know that its overly important to have a locally available source when online shipping is so easy an inexpensive.
Good luck!
Chris
Chris Otterness
Whitewater 16, Guillemot

brockj
Posts: 25
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj » Sun Mar 22, 2020 3:46 pm

First off, sorry for not responding sooner Pitts, the last couple weeks have been crazy! As for suppliers, I picked up the African Mahogany at Forest Products Supply in Maplewood. For the plywood I did end up going with Midwest Boat Appeal, spendy, but great folks. For the epoxy I did go with MAS, but only because I picked it up on clearance from Gander Outdoors.

On to the work for the day. I finally what I will call the rough fairing of the entire boat complete. So today I picked through my plywood to find the nicest looking pieces and ripped three 18"x8' pieces for the side planking. I started on the port side, setting it up and clamping into place, scribed with a pencil and took it down slightly more. As I was bending the plywood around, checking for bulges and dips I was generally please with how the plywood sat. I did come across one spot of concern, right around Frame 2 where there was a gap of about 3/8" of an inch between the plywood and the chine. My thought was minimal clamping and allowing the plywood to naturally bend, eyeing it to ensure it was smooth lines, would be the best method of ensuring the fairing was appropriately done. A couple pictures might do better:
IMG_6730.JPG
A closer view:
IMG_6731.JPG
As I mentioned, at the widest part it is about 3/8", my thought is a 1/4"-3/8" piece of wood then fill with thickened epoxy, any concerns with that plan? For the rest of side it seemed to sit pretty well.

Was fun to start working on something other than wood removal!

JimmY
Posts: 931
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY » Mon Mar 23, 2020 6:50 am

Hi Brock,

I would epoxy a piece of scrap in that area and re-fair it. Check the sheers and other side as well, and do any "touch ups" at once to save epoxy and time. If you try to fill it in after the sides are on, you risk having gaps and dealing with cured epoxy in the gap.

Looking good.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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