Zipology

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:51 am

Awesome! congratulations!

tgauthier · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:43 am

Congradulations..Travis

You gotta Love that cradle. Now that you know where I live...stop on by sometime for a ride in my Zip. She is on the hoist and waiting.

Ted

travis24 · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2012 2:43 pm

Setting up the motor today. As you can see I have the anti- Cavatation plate just about lined up with the bottom of the transom. Is this roughly where everyones merc is set? Once I eventually do a sea trial and test then will bolt down but until then must take it easy. Once that motor's painted up should look pretty good!

Travis

upspirate · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2012 2:48 pm

looks right to me....exactly where I'd mount it!! :wink:

gdcarpenter · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2012 6:17 pm

Not saying all will agree, but I have my '59 Merc Mark 35A mounted with the cavitation plate about 1 1/2" ABOVE the bottom of the boat and just had my maiden voyage with no cavitation of any sort. I have a water pressure gauge hooked up to the engine and she runs about 8-9 psi at wide open throttle and the pressure never missed a beat even in hard turns. The theory is the higher up the cavitation plate is the less engine leg in the water and the more speed you can get. Do what you feel comfortable with.

vupilot · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2012 6:54 pm

That should be good but error on the high side, and be sure not to be low. Watch out for your steering tube in relation to where the deck is going to be and think about how you will have the cable exit the deck/motorwell. It can get tricky later if you dont plan ahead.

upspirate · **Posted:** Fri May 11, 2012 7:16 am

gdcarpenter wrote:

Not saying all will agree, but I have my '59 Merc Mark 35A mounted with the cavitation plate about 1 1/2" ABOVE the bottom of the boat and just had my maiden voyage with no cavitation of any sort. I have a water pressure gauge hooked up to the engine and she runs about 8-9 psi at wide open throttle and the pressure never missed a beat even in hard turns. The theory is the higher up the cavitation plate is the less engine leg in the water and the more speed you can get. Do what you feel comfortable with.

I agree with this height also, and usually run mine this high.

However for the "general public" advice, I say even with the bottom, as I don't know what loads etc they will be running.

gdcarpenter · **Posted:** Fri May 11, 2012 7:17 am

What Chris just posted is important. That's a good looking older Mer, and if it's the vintage I suspect - it most likely has a smaller tilt tube that will NOT accept a standard Teleflex steering system. I had to bore out the parts of the motor and install a larger diameter tilt tube to accommodate a Teleflex steering system, if that's what you plan on using.

You motor well must be wide enough to accommodate the travel of the teleflex steering rod (More than 32" wide at back)

I made my motor well as shallow as I could to leave room for a cruiser tank underneath it and raised my engine as much as I could so from one photo you can see how close to the deck my steering cable had to make its exit. From another photo you can hopefully see that the front of the engine is a 'hair' above my Anchor light mount when tilted up, and that my engine cannot be tilted if the Anchor light is installed.

The other photo shows a 'mock' up I made to check these clearances before constructing the actual motor well.

This is one part of the build you want to 'think through' as much as possible.

jprice · **Posted:** Fri May 11, 2012 8:12 am

I did a lot of research on this before I made the motorwell cutout.
From everything I've read, you want it somewhere between even to about an inch above. But definitely not below the keel.
See page 2 of this doc. It's a little confusing, but more or less confirms that.
http://motorka.org/doc/mercury/service_ ... 175/1d.pdf

travis24 · **Posted:** Fri May 11, 2012 12:50 pm

Gd,

Not tele flex here, I have a ride guide set up for the boat that fits the tilt tube.

Travis

travis24 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:24 pm

Have some updated pic not much getting done the kids are getting most of my free time. Have one just graduated High School and the "Boss" Basically has me rebuilding the entire house for the party next weekend. :lol:

I do have to thank Ted and Art for the rides! That's the great part about having other Glen-L builders close by. Travis :lol:

travis24 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:34 pm

Few more pics. My oldest daughter will be headed to James Madison in the fall a college inside Michigan State. Her AP classes taken in High School really paid off she will enter college as a sophmore. Go S T A T E !!!!!

Travis :lol:

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:43 am

Looking very nice!!!

Roberta

keithhills · **Posted:** Wed Jul 04, 2012 4:12 am

Interesting you made a mock up of the engine well.
I have a situation where I also need to make the well as small as possible and was considering that I would have to make a mock up, when the time comes. (I am still at frame stage, so a long way to go).
As a matter of interest, how many man hours have you put into your project so far?
Keith Hills

travis24 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:28 am

At this point I'm at about 195 hrs . If I had the time to build for weeks on end would complete in about 2 to 3 months but with a full time job and the kids it isn't going as quick as I thought. My big problem is the winter months with no heat in the garage or shed. Once this boat is complete the garage is getting torn down and a new structure will go up with a heated work shop in the back. No more down time in the winter months and will be able to climatize it year around. I must say with this web site it gives alot of ideas and keeps you interested in building as long as you follow. As you can see I like the old motors and do agree with Roberta on buyer beware for motors. My thoughts on that are different. When buying a vintage motor you either need to know a little about them and how they work, also get into a club that will give you alot of know how and help on getting it running and turning you into a more hands on outboard mechanic. If you don't want any problems with a motor I would buy a new Yamaha and not worry about anything ever. I would be leary of buying a new used outboard because you won't be able to fix it unless you send it to a mechanic $$$$$. And yes I know I will dissapoint many people by saying Yamaha but thats just the way it is!
P.S. Keith I didn't do a mockup for the motor well that's a pic of GD's
Travis

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