Andy's Zip build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Roberta
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Roberta »

Look's Great, Andy!!! The foam should be encapsulated with epoxy. If you are casting it in place in the boat, just coat the surrounding structure with epoxy and pour in the foam solution.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

red
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by red »

Andy dont use any laquer products on foam it will turn it back into a liquid faster than you can say oh @#!~!

keithhills
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by keithhills »

Andy I see from your photos that you have used a lot of paint on your job.
What type or brand of paint did you use? I am thinking about the interior of my zip.
Calm Spirit

cusoak
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by cusoak »

Andy. Was wondering what brand of foam you are going to use ande where you intend to spray it.
Thanks Jeff

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Andy Garrett »

Thanks for the tip Roberta. I was actually pouring some foam tonight. More to be done later.

The interior paint is Benjamin Moore's Polyamid (two part) paint. I paid $140ish for a gallon at a local store.

The exterior paint is Supermarine Ironsides..., tough as nails. It was somewhere around $250 if memory serves. will use some clear Ironsides on the deck over the epoxy.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Andy Garrett »

Winter weather go away,
I'd like to build my boat today!
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Andy Garrett »

On foam...

Since there are no instructions on exactly how much you mix to achieve a certain volume of foam (other than the whole kit makes 8 cubic feet), I find myself working in small batches and have come up with an amount that just about fills the plastic containers that I'm using for molds.

The first few grew above the rim, so I took a back saw and cut it off level with the rim, which gave me a nice flat top to the block. The pieces that were trimmed off, were broken into slightly smaller pieces and put in the mold before the next pour. No waste, and it worked great.

This stuff is easy to work with, but a bit messy. There was no nasty odor, so mixing inside was not an issue. Don't be intimidated by this process if you are consdiering foregoing the foam.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Andy Garrett »

My US Composites foam kit gave me right at 6 cubic feet rather than the 8 they advertised.

Full disclosure: I did this inside at 68 degrees. A bit cooler than recomended. Either way, it's plenty. It'll be tough enough getting these blocks stowed and secured.

I got to thinking about sealing the foam. The manufacture says that nothing will disolve them like other foams. This opens the door to a variety of rattle can finishes, even colors if I so choose (beats the creepy flesh tone of the natural foam). Latex paint would even seem to be on the table.

My point being: Epoxy is expensive and messy. Perhaps there is a simpler and more cost effective choice that still reaches the desired performance mark.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

Retroman
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Retroman »

Andy Garrett wrote:On foam...

Since there are no instructions on exactly how much you mix to achieve a certain volume of foam (other than the whole kit makes 8 cubic feet), I find myself working in small batches and have come up with an amount that just about fills the plastic containers that I'm using for molds.

The first few grew above the rim, so I took a back saw and cut it off level with the rim, which gave me a nice flat top to the block. The pieces that were trimmed off, were broken into slightly smaller pieces and put in the mold before the next pour. No waste, and it worked great.

This stuff is easy to work with, but a bit messy. There was no nasty odor, so mixing inside was not an issue. Don't be intimidated by this process if you are consdiering foregoing the foam.
I did not use floataion on my boat, never got that far, crazy I know. Is it even possible to put enough floatation in a Zip to actually prevent the boat from sinking to the bottom. Im sure there is a mathmatical formula to determine how much you would need.
Just curious,
Jim
RetroMan
Built A Zip/Flying Saucer. I do my boating on South Oyster Bay, Long Island, NY
Documenting my build on YouTube @ http://www.youtube.com/SuperUnknownMC

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Andy Garrett »

Well, I'm pretty sure the wood hull is boyant, so that needs no floatation. The gas and oil floats too. I'm betting the plastic moeller tank will float too, especially if it's capped.

The only real weight to support is the battery (50-60lbs) and the engine (176lbs). Throw another 50lbs on for good measure (steering, hardware, yada yada) and I'm right at 280lbs or so. I think technically I need to provide for the occupants too, but that's what life jackets are for right?

The foam will support 60lbs per cubic foot, so... 5 cubit feet should do it. I'll try to get all 6 in.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

keithhills
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by keithhills »

If it is a closed cell foam you wont have to seal it but if open cell, which most foams are, then you will.
Personally I would use a coat of epoxy but it is a bit expensive. You could use plastic sheeting if you cal seal it at the joints some how, like shrink wrap. A bit out there but will work.
In Australia there are no regulations that say we have to have positive flotation but it is recommended. I know that I don't have enough space to get 6 cu ft of foam in unless I used all under the seats and then have no space for batteries etc.
Calm Spirit

cusoak
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by cusoak »

Andy.
Are you just pouring blocks of foam and then putting them some where in the boat. Or are you filling up under the decking on the sides. I am looking at putting some floation under the decking on under the sides between the strong back and the shear.
Jeff.

cusoak
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by cusoak »

Here is a link to a youtube video on mixing the composite foam.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8u_ax1vnZE www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8u_ax1vnZE

Jeff

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Andy Garrett »

I used 16 quart (15 litre) bins as molds.

I have yet to decide how I will secure them. I may try shock cord or bungie nets.
Image
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Mr Hot Rod
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Re: Andy's Zip build

Post by Mr Hot Rod »

Retroman wrote:Is it even possible to put enough floatation in a Zip to actually prevent the boat from sinking to the bottom. Im sure there is a mathmatical formula to determine how much you would need.
You may want to review flotation regulations in the BOATBUILDER'S HANDBOOK, more specifically, Subpart G — Flotation Requirements For Outboard Boats Rated for Engines of More Than 2 Horsepower.

Level Flotation applies to monohull outboard boats that are less than 20 feet. You must calculate how much foam will be needed to support the boat, the machinery, and a portion of the passengers. Flotation material must be installed in specific locations to ensure that the swamped boat floats in a level position.
Basic Flotation applies to inboards, inboard/outdrives and air boats less than 20 feet in length. In Basic Flotation, the boat must be kept afloat in the event of a swamping but it does not have to remain in an upright or any specific position.
Hope this helps !

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