Glen-L.com

Not sure what you are going to do with your sides as far as color. but if you have mahogany plywood then fill your screw holes where they will show with Famowood Mahogary wood filer. It stains very well.

Jeff

In spite of grilling and other chores, it was a very productive day with the boat.

I did the first round of sanding via belt and random-orbit, then finished the day with another round of thick fairing putty where needed. TONS of sawdust!

As for my finish cusoak, I am very sensitive to the climate here in Kansas. It's not common knowledge, but our extreme highs in the summer are among the worst in the nation. I had really considered black on the hull. Then I thought of a dark stain on the deck. Alas, I yield to good judgment and will keep the colors light (I don't want to risk my epoxy bonds, and it will be more comfortable). The hull will be nearly all white with no water line. I am currently planning an area on the side (near the tumblehome) which will be clear coat only. This where I'll afix the gold-leaf name of the boat. The deck will be a combination of white and bright work. I may use the method you mention up there on the solid stock areas, but all the screw holes in the ply will be painted over.

Thanks. I'll be posting pics after the next round of sanding. Hopefully, there won't be a third round.

_________________
Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Some of you may recall that I had a heck of a time with the Rabl method of fairing which led me to flat frame contours at frame #5 1/2. It also led to a shallower curve on my stem.

I also had to laminate my forward chines due to them being too far inward.

I'm happy to report that everything I did to correct of these set up issues (with your generous advice) worked perfectly. My hull undoubtedly has a different shape (in very subtle ways), but you'd never know to look at it.

I am facinated by one thing in particular. At frame 5 1/2, where the Rabl method led me to fair the frame down to flat, straight line between chine and keel (where it meets the stem) the ply has developed its own mild compound curve with nothing pressing against it to cause this condition. You see, after the first side of the forward bottom planking was in place, I reached up under to feel the ply/frame contact there. The ply actually bows out just a bit--maybe 1/4". Nothing is forcing it that way. It's doing it on its own, as a result of the twist toward the bow. Very mysterious...

When I turn the boat and add a few strategic fillets, I'll fill this area (among others) with filleting putty.

_________________
Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Here are some pics of the hull post sanding.
As you can see, I alternated which way the ply laps up front. It didn't seem to make a difference.
I also tried to show how the earlier 'fixes' worked out very well. Thank you all for that great advise.
There are a few little spots that I will touch up, but over all, I'm very pleased with it. Let the fiberglassing begin!

_________________
Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Looking fantastic!!

_________________
By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Andy looks awesome!!

I remember this part of the boat building and thinking that I was glad it was over. Looks great.
Great pictures.
Are you going to fiberglass the whole boat.
The other thing I would like to tell you is that I used the West system epoxy. I use their 105 epoxy and their 207 special hardner.
This combination goes on and flows out nicley with their rollers. No bubbles. You have up to 12 hours to put on other coats with out sanding. The other nice thing about this combination is that there in no amie blush to get off, so no washing. Just sand smooth and wipe of with denatrued alcohol. then recoat. I put on 5 coats then sanded and put on 2 more coats of epoxy on my bottom. Then painted.
Jeff

Look's Great, Andy!!!

Roberta

_________________
Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

It looks like a Zip Andy!

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Good work!!! You'll be flipping in no time at all.

_________________
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

Congrats, you now have something that should float. It will be soon enough that you will see her right side up!

_________________
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

Thanks for the kind words!

As I prepare for glassing (and have misplaced my DVD/book combo detailing the finer points), I find myself with a few questions:

I am wondering about the crisp edge of the chine, particularly near the stern. I know that the book says that you should round all external edges to prevent air bubbles, but I wonder about performance. I'm not excited about rounding off the transom even though it will be built back up with glass and resin, but should I plan to rebuild the 'crisp' edge on the chine as well (at least in the area that will be wet while on plane)? I suppose this applies to the stem as well?

Are there options here? I have wondered about trimming the glass precisely at those sharp edges as a way to maintain them--bad idea?

For the record, my entire hull will be glassed and painted all the way to the sheer.

_________________
Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

You only need the crisp edge at the transom. The chines can be nicely rounded to ease laying down the cloth and left with a radius.

Roberta

_________________
Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

You want to pay attention to fiberglass where it goes over the chine. It has a tendencey to not to stay layed down.
You might have to keep pulling it down from the sides to keep it in place.
Jeff

When fiberglassing mine I sanded a very slight radius to all hard edges. At the transom it is pretty easy to build the edge back up although I still have about a 1/8" radius. Along the chine, I rebuild the crisp edge when I attached the spray rails with thickened epoxy...just smooth it out to fill in the slight gap the radius leaves.

_________________
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net