Andy's Zip build

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:04 am

Question:

My instructions which came with my Zip plans explain that standard lumber yard sizes are to be used with exception to width. With this in mind, I purchased a 16' length of awesome 1" x 6" S4S mahogany to rip into two chine logs. However, as I was cutting the notches in my frame to receive the chine, I realized that this was actually a full inch deep while my chine is actually 3/4" thick due to the finishing.

Can I use this material for my chine as the instructions suggest, or do I need a chine that is 1" net thickness?

I also screwed up my transom and will need to start over there... :roll:

Onplane · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:31 am

I'm building the Malahini, so take that as you may... I'm sure other Zip builders will chime in soon.

Personally, I chose to go the full depth of the notches. I'm thinking that it may not have been completely necessary, as when the plans say 1" it really means 7/8 or 3/4 finished. But, I didn't regret going the full depth either, as it really doesn't add that much weight, and especially on the sheers, most of that material gets faired away anyway. (In fact you will be surprised just how little there is left after fairing at the bow).

Personally, I found it much easier to do the chines and sheers in 2 laminations. If you went this route, you could simply purchase another board and glue up a secondary lamination to make up the thickness you need.

I take it your notches are already cut. If this is the case, you would need to build back up with epoxy & filler, or epoxied blocks to get back to your 3/4" you have now. And also, don't forget you will need to fair the notches also to accept the gentle curve from one frame member to the next, so this will angle the notch as well.

Hope there were some nuggets in that sphiel...

Iggy · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:08 am

I had my lumber pre-planed down to 7/8" thickness, which turned out just fine for everything so far. I believe you can get down to 3/4" thickness and still be absolutely fine... in fact it should bend a bit easier. Just remember to work the chine from the stem backwards to the aft... trying to bend it the other way seems to increase stress and can snap it as I discovered.

I did not use laminations for my chine, however I certainly understand why some builders opt for that method. Laminating the sheer is pretty much a 'must' on the Malahini anyway, so you will need a few dozen clamps regardless.

You don't have to use full 1" stock. If you scale the plans you will see they are likely showing the lumber thickness at 7/8". I wouldn't go thinner than 3/4"... mostly because you are going to run a lot of screws into the material why you apply the plywood and you don't want them to be too close to the edge.

vupilot · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:33 am

Andy,
My plans show the notches at 3/4" actual size? Youll need to make sure you have enough material remaining after fairing you may not starting with 3/4" pieces. My receipt says I bought four 1/2x2 netx16' pieces for my chines and obviously this was done in laminations of two per side. I do remember cutting my notches a 1/8" deeper so I wouldnt have so much to fair off.
I started with four 5/8x1-1/4 pieces for the sheer.

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:42 pm

Chris, as I take a second look, I see that many of the chine/batten notches are 3/4 on one side and almost an inch on others. Instinctively, I cut 1 x 2 notches for the deck battens at frame #5 1/2.

It's an easy fix. I can block those back to 3/4" and adjust my future notching to use my 3/4" finished lumber.

I will likely laminate a supporting piece to the inside of the chine between 5 1/2 and the stem after everything cures.

I may approach the sheer with the same strategies as I will likely use the same type of lumber in 16' lengths. We'll see how that goes.

Thanks guys.

upspirate · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:48 pm

A little late for you Andy,but for anyone else that hasn't got there yet.....I cut my notches to fit the size lumber I have.

For example,on my skiff,I waited til I could measure the chines,shears,battens& risers because to make maximum use of the raw lumber we had to cut the pieces just a little bit smaller than specified.

The notches would have been the wrong size(oversize) so I cut them to the actual size of the pieces.

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:51 pm

In other news... I got two emails from Houston Hardwoods today.

Working on it- making progress-learning a lot-bear with me-should have solution today.
Guy
and later...

Andrew-
After researching all of the possible reasons for heavier panels it is simply a case of too many Keruing veneers used to make a sheet up.
Here is our spec sheet for Hydrotek weights - http://www.wolstenholme.com/resource-center/

Our supplier, Wolstenholme, has graciously agreed to replace the two sheets at no cost to you or I. With that news I, and I am sure they, would appreciate acknowleging their support in your forums. As the spec sheet above indicates a more consistant weight of the 6mm sheets, they said the decision to supply two new sheets was a "no brainer". Thank you for the opportunity (and the time to do it) to run through the apprpriate channels required for replacement panels.

I will ship two new sheets to the same address after getting an OK from you.

Guy Pike
Houston Hardwoods, Inc.
Ph. 713-686-6176
Fx. 713-686-3217
Cell. 713-927-7429
guyp@houstonhardwoods.com

It looks as if satisfaction will be achieved. Good for me AND them!

A heartfelt thanks for all of you who helped me with this.

Iggy · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:28 pm

Great news!

I would have been surprise if they didn't step up to the plate for you after your last email. I am sure you feel better knowing that you will have the right materials and not have to mess around with it.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:35 pm

Great news Andy!!

psychobilly · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:43 pm

Kewl to know... That dang place is right around the corner from me! lol sweet ta know!!!! Good ta see they are working with you but only after you had to almost demand it.....

J Purcell · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:48 pm

That is great! Good for them for finally stepping up. Now you can build without that in the back of your mind.

Bill Edmundson · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:02 pm

I'm glad this is working out!

There was added pressure. Oyster made contact also. He brought up our collective buying power.

I don't want this to be a union per se. But, if there is a way the group can help... bring it up.

Bill

jamundsen · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:39 pm

good news

upspirate · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2011 8:00 am

Bill Edmundson wrote:

I'm glad this is working out!

There was added pressure. Oyster made contact also. He brought up our collective buying power.

I don't want this to be a union per se. But, if there is a way the group can help... bring it up.

Bill

Y'all can send the dues to me or Oyster if you like!! :wink:

ttownshaw · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2011 8:03 am

Great Andy,

I sent Tom a note as well...heck, I've refered lots of people to them. I'm really glad it worked out.

Glen-L.com

Andy's Zip build

Who is online