Sawford's Zip Build

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2012 4:31 am

Coming along nicely!!!

Roberta

vupilot · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:03 am

Heck, it felt like it took me two weeks to fair the sides with the sheer. Youre moving along very well.

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 10:28 am

Looks great! Very envious.

sawford11 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:04 pm

Thanks folks. Andy - you can't be far behind, your flip is probably around the corner. I give you props for installing the drains. I wasn't brave enough to drill holes in the haul....but I think you will find them useful in the long run.

I did order the fuel tank, installation kit (filler tube, stainless deck cap, vent lines, and hardware), streering system (teleflex NFB 4.2 rotary), and control cables....can't wait, just like Christmas!

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:36 pm

Looking Great!!!

You'll like the 4.2 NFB steering system. That's what I used.

Roberta

sawford11 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 5:35 pm

Yah, I think I will be happy with the NFB....I actually ordered the standard version first (I guess that's the feedback model) then cancelled that order, and placed the order for the no feedback version. It was only a difference of $50 so I opted for the NFB. Probably overkill for a 14' boat, but if I ever get some younger captains behind the wheel, maybe it will be better.

Spent some time this weekend finishing the deck frames, seatback beams, carlings, etc and then some time cutting the floor boards (and chine to chine blocking/floor support). Still need to spend some more time finishing that up, but probably got 75% finished. I am using 5/8" oak strips for the floor and will provide about a 5/8" gap between each member. I like the look of the floor with the gap and it also saves a little weight. I am a little concerned over the amount of lumber I am putting into the floor. Seems like it adds a lot of weight. I am using different widths for the floor planks and the center plank is about 2 1/2". Eventually, that plank will be painted to match the blue used on the boat bottom/waterline. Looking into the future, I also plan on having some same colored accents in the interior. RIght now, none of the floor pieces are fastened....if you look at the photos below, don't be alarmed...nothing is actually spaced out yet, the boards are all jsut resting in place.

I am also going to overlay the dashboard with 1/4" ply (eventually) since when I used the full size plans to create the frame members (back in November), I cut the notch at the centerline. The center deck beam rests in the notch, but doesn't give a finished look in the dash. No problem, I'll just cover that up!

vupilot · **Posted:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:34 pm

I like the narrow strip in the middle, its a unique touch, great idea.

sawford11 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:51 pm

Two weeks since the last post...and I'm not sure what I have done since! I did receive lot's of equipment and figured out how the mechanics will go together (control cables, steering, etc.). I also encapsulated the rear and mid floor boards and installed those this morning. My next few steps are going to build the motor well (if that is what it is called)l, finish the floor in front of the main seating area, build the seats and then design/build the armrests. Today, I set the motor in place the marked and drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. I figure with the motor in place, it will be a lot easier to design the motor well to account for the tilt and turning of the motor. Lifting the motor into place took some muscle...should have waited til I had some more help, but I just didn't want to wait. Below are pictures of the floor, motor lifting (photo courtesy of my 9 year old, Sara), and the motor in place...Having lot's of fun!

Does anyone know if you are supposed to somehow gasket the bolt holes that hold the motor on?

vupilot · **Posted:** Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:53 pm

Looking good. Those sole planks took me forever to get encapsulated on all sides. I should of made a rig to hang them so I could do all sides at once. You get to do it all over again for varnish.

I over drilled the motor holes one size then encapsulated the holes and once dry installed the bolts with marine sealant coating them. Just incase a slight adjustment is necessary on the motor height you may choose to wait to install the bolts until you make a test run. Just be sure the twist mounts are tight if you do that!

sawford11 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:52 pm

Thanks pilot. I guess the same idea for the motor well drain tubes too. Epoxy the hole in the transom, insert brass tube drain with marine sealant. Thnx

sawford11 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 6:28 pm

Started framing the motor well yesterday and today went to buy the trailer. Brought it home, set the bunks appropriately and then picked up the hull and placed on the new trailer. I grabbed the front, and a neighbor and my wife each grabbed a corner by the transom. The hull is still pretty light...but I wanted to get it on the trailer before I start with the seats and interior.

Below are a few photos of the motor well, the boat on trailer and the trailer and truck (all 40 feet of them)!

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 6:38 pm

Look's Great!!

Roberta

vupilot · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:30 pm

Cool! Looks like a great fit. What make/model is the trailer? My only advice would be to mount your bow eye low enough on the stem so that your winch pulls up on the bow, it will make it easier to load.

sawford11 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 5:46 am

Thanks guys. The trailer is a Load Rite 16150076DW. It is for 13-16' boats, 1500lb capacity. Chris - by the specs, it is very similar to the Shorelander SLV15 which is what I was trying to buy locally. However, the local shorelander sales rep would not return phone calls. I drove an extra 30 miles and picked up the Load Rite from a place called "Pirate Marine" in Berlin Ohio. If anyone is in search of a trailer in Western PA or Eastern Ohio, I highly recommend giving them a call. The people there very nice and knowledgeable. You can also do an internet search for Pirate Marine Boat Trader and you will get a hit showing all their inventory.

Back to the zip...I was thinking I would install a cutwater and therefore have to forego the bow eye. Any thoughts on that? Thanks

vupilot · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 8:15 pm

I wish I had a bow eye.

The cutwater prevented it and the cutwater guy was not a fan of making a cutwater that would allow for a eye to be placed through it. Attaching the strap to the bow handle like I do pulls down on the bow when loading the boat at a time when the bow really needs to come up to match the boat trailer as it is pulled from the water. Because of this my boat wont load all the way against the roller stop, as the boat is pulled out the stern lowers onto the bunks and the bow raises and is no longer against the stop. Once up the ramp and on flat ground I have to physically scoot it the last foot forward, it takes two people.

A nice way to accomplish a finished look on the stem/side planking joint with a bright finished hull and a bow eye is how Bob did his on his Malahini. Im sure you have seen it but here it is for easy reference. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11736&start=240 He installed a bow eye but added stainless rub rail trim mounted above and below the eye like a cutwater. Its a nice look that covers the joint, makes the boat easier to load and is a lot cheaper than a cutwater.

If you are like me and just cant stand to not have a cutwater you could also modify the trailer winch to pull from above the bow and attach to a lifting eye on the foredeck. I should have done it that way but didnt know what the heck a lifting eye was back when it was a good time to install one. You see this a lot with the old classic boats and several folks here on the forum have trailers set up that way.

Glen-L.com

Sawford's Zip Build

Who is online