Sawford's Zip Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Iggy
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Location: Leduc (Edmonton), Alberta

Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by Iggy »

Those air bubbles caught me as well, much more than I would have liked. No sure if there was a better way to prevent their formation, I ended up sanding, refilling the pockets and then re-sanding again. It was a slow process but cleaned up rather well.
Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

sawford11
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by sawford11 »

Started laying out the locations of the deck hardware and drilling holes the hardware and for pass-throughs of the cables, fuel line, steering etc. I am now getting ready to take everything back apart, including removing the interior, and doing a final sanding of everything. I will then begin the process of clear coating the interior and exterior of the hull, and the floor/interior/dashboards, etc.

You can see I made the windshield recently. I went with acrylic, in lieu of glass, just because I wanted to make everything myself. The acrylic was cut on my band saw and the edges sanded smooth. We will see how the acrylic holds up. The piece I bought only cost $54 and is enough to make two complete windshields.

Beside the clear coat, the next things on the list are transom bands, steel plate to protect the transom from the outboard, chrome rub rail, and then the cutwater.
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vupilot
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by vupilot »

Looks Awesome!

The acrylic will scratch easy so be careful cleaning it. I was considering redoing my windsheild in glass but at G6 a glass one cracked when going over rough water and changed my mind. I'll just replace the acrylic one when it gets too scratchy. Where did you get the material from?

Bob Brandenstein and Bill Shaw turned me onto a neat rub rail that I will switch to when my current rubber one needs replaced. You may have heard them talking about it on the forum already.
Its solid vinyl, sturdy, cheap and looks great. Check out how Bob installed it in his blog. After seeing it at the Gathering its a great way to go. http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/searc ... -results=7 Its called Protekto trim and its cheap from RE paint supply. http://www.repaintsupply.com 2 X COW 33-313, 1" Chrome European Style Body Side Molding, 24' (COW.33-313) @ $30.88

Its gotta be tempting to go take the boat out right now for a little test ride before taking apart for final finishing!!! Im hoping to take ours out one last time next weekend.
Last edited by vupilot on Sun Oct 14, 2012 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by Andy Garrett »

Looks great!
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

sawford11
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2011 1:51 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by sawford11 »

Thanks guys. The acrylic came from Home Depot. Too funny I also have 2 rolls of the protecto auto trim that I will use as the rub rail. I'm not sure of the durability but it was pretty cheap.

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Roberta
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by Roberta »

Looks Great!!!!!

Roberta :D :D :D :D :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

sawford11
Posts: 154
Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2011 1:51 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by sawford11 »

Haven't progressed much over the past few weeks. I have spent some time spraying (hvlp sprayer) the water based system three wr-lpu clear gloss over the hull and deck with little success. After the first 4 coats, I was very disappointed. The surface showed a lot of orange peel and the areas that were not orange peeled, were not nearly as glossy as I hoped. I sanded back down to epoxy. The crosslinked clear gloss was very hard (which is a good thing) and was very difficult to sand through. After cleaning the boat (again), In one day, I was able to apply 6 very thin coats hoping for better success. The orange peel wasn't there, but there wasn't any gloss either. Due to other conflicts, I had to wait a few days to get back to the boat. With the product I am using, if you wait more than 24 hours, you need to lightly sand to add additional coats. So, the other day, I sanded very lightly, washed, dried and decided to put the sprayer away. I tried a foam roller and then tipped with a foam brush. This method provided a glossier finish, though it also introduced orange peel (again). This evening, I decided to roll and tip it again, hoping the clear would self level and hide some of the orange peel. Below are the pictures. The product is still wet, though it looks better so far. I had read a lot of reviews with people complaining about this water based product. From orange peel, to lack of gloss, to difficulty with temperature/humidity and results. I rolled the dice and tried it anyway, as the water based clear seemed like a safer, less odorous product for spraying. Hindsight being 20/20, I should of went with my first instinct, which was to use a clear varnish. At this point, however the deck turns out is the way it is going to be. I am not going to sand it down again. I will wet sand with 600 through 1500 grit, then buff and polish. That should take care of the gloss, but I'm guessing the orange peel will always be seen. I figure I'll give it a year or two, then consider sanding all the way down to bare wood and refinishing.
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vupilot
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by vupilot »

Hang in there buddy, it seems every type of finish requires its own learning curve to figure out, youll get the right recipe. You might call tech support and see if they have some tips.

red
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by red »

if you put on enough coats you will be able to wet sand all your imperfections out and buff you should end up with a completely flat and glossy finish when you are done but you have to have enough material to do so if it were me id put on a few more coats let it dry for 4 or 5 days and start wet sanding with 1000 grit to 2000 grit and buff i understand your fustration been there a few times myself

sawford11
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by sawford11 »

Yah, that's what I am planning. I now have 6 coats sprayed very thin, and just completed 4 coats rolled and tipped. The surface is now glossy, but shows signs of orange peel. I have 600, 1000, and 1500 paper that I will use to try and remove the orange peel and bring it back to a glossy finish. After 1500, I'll use the buffer with a buffing and then polishing compound. I think I'll give it until at least next weekend in order for the clear to cure prior to sanding. I'm feeling better with the way the finish looks now, vs my last post (which was only 24 hrs ago)! I guess three coats of additional clear since yesterday helped do the trick.

In the meantime, I have the floor boards and armrests that need to be cleared. and lots more to do on the metalwork.

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by Andy Garrett »

Knocking down orange peel is easy, but time consuming. Sand lightly only when fully cured, and use something very stiff as a paper back. A piece of pine 2x4 works well. Just don't press hard and gouge anything. Keep a light source very close to look on angle like the hail damage repair guys do it. You'll see when the peel is gone and the surface is just to the all dull stage with no shiny dimples (low spots).

Then sand with a typical softer backing to blend it.

I find this method leaves the thickest possible layer of clear on the finish. Good luck.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

sawford11
Posts: 154
Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2011 1:51 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by sawford11 »

I put four coats of clear over the floor boards and arm rests/console pieces. They seemed to turn out pretty good. Plus, considering I'll be standing on them, I'm not overly concerned with their 'show finish.'

Regarding the orange peel on the deck....any opinions out there on if I could use 600 grit on my random orbital to knock the high spots down, then move onto finer grit? Not sure if I should use the random orbital or do it by hand. Considering I have 600 grit paper for my sander, I'm leaning toward that. Thoughts?
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red
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by red »

sawford if your sander is air powered go to an auto body paint store and get some 1000 and 1500 grit wet dry for your sander and wet sand it start with the 1000 and then the 1500 and then you can buff it out from there just be careful not to go through even though its just 1000 and 1500 itll will burn through pretty quick

sawford11
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by sawford11 »

Sanded the entire hull started w/ 600 grit, but found out the cross linked wr-lpu is a very hard paint. I backtracked to 220 grit, stopping when the clear dimples sanded away. Even with 220, it took a lot of time to rid the surface of orange peel. The paint did not want to sand away (a good thing in the long run). After several hours over a few days of 220, I sanded the hull with 600. I have 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit for my orbital on the way. Just for fun, by hand, I then sanded a very small area (half square foot) with 1000, 1500, 2000 that I have on sheets. I then used a buffing compound and wax and finally I was pleased with the way the deck looked, well at least the half square foot area.

It was a great weekend weather wise and although I didn't work on the boat much, I did clear out my work shop and garage. Throughout the summer, I kept a car outside but with cold weather coming, needed to make sure the cars each had a home. Now, in order to work on the boat, I need to back the truck out of the workshop. Small trade off for a nice toasty car in the morning.

The photo below is the boat after 600 grit paper over the deck/hull.
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Roberta
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Re: Sawford's Zip Build

Post by Roberta »

Coming along nicely!! That WR-LPU is very hard. The surface becomes like and plastic tarp over the wood.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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