Glen-L.com

i went ahead and incapsulated the inside of the transom and the frames before i put everything together it was easier that way for me. If you do it that way try not to get any epoxy in the notches or youll have to sand them real good before you glue up the chines, sheers ect..

Now that the encapsulation is done on the frames, transom, and stem, I'm nearing the point where I will install the keel.

What I'm wondering is if the entire length of the keel is supposed to be flat/level? Or does the forward tip of the keel curve upward slightly into its mating notch in the stem?

It seems that trying to curve just that short forward section of the keel would produce a bulge in the aft section. Yet, my keel notch (as it is now) does have a slight curve in it. I can't quite figure out if that curve is intentional, or it's a mistake I've made that I'll need to flatten out.

I was looking at Kymarlee's "Riva Ridge" construction photos, and his keel LOOKS like it's level for the full length, but it's just so hard to tell from photos because that curve would be minor (if it's supposed to be there).

Any input from experienced squirt builders?

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-Michael

my boatbuilding blog:
http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/

I'm not a Squirt builder but I understand that the Zip I am building is the Squirt's big brother. My build did indeed require the front end of the keel to curve to 'catch' the stem. The photo should show the curvature I am referencing.

I made sure to epoxy and secure my keel to the transom and frames 2 and 4 first, and let them cure well. Then I 'persuaded' the forward end of the keel to curve slightly to mate to the stem to avoid the front end bending translating rearward.

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

I'll just echo what GD said. My Zip also had a noticable curve where the keel met the stem.

Triple check your setup and roll with it.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad