Glen-L.com

mention of fairing sheer and chine for planking. unless i add to, or twist the chine , there will not be any gluing surface on the chine for planking. the angle between the chine and sheer at the stem side of boat is to great. plus in the plans there is not a mention of chine distance from breasthook up the stem.

sorry only way i can describe without a picture.

Your chine and sheer should protrude past the edge of the frames, if they dont your notches are too deep. The protruding portions are reshaped in fairing to form the mating surfaces

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Get a small piece of plywood or some sort of easy to bend sheet material ,1/4" or smaller, and bend it over the surfaces.....you'll see where you have to remove chine,shear,keel,stem material to make the final planking lay flat

http://www.glen-l.com/methods/plywood/plywood-fig15.jpg

Go back and read & look at the booklet that came with the plans.

Go Slow and remove a little at a time!!!

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hi
yes to what Chris said... they should protrude past the frames, and when you do the actual fairing, you might be suprised at how much material is taken off. On my Squirt, I think the sheer ended up being triangular in the final shape. It was ALOT smaller than what I had started with. Also what Warren said, get a small piece of 1/4" ply that you can bend over the curves, as you're taking off material. A power planer and a belt sander both come in handy here, but do go slowly.
Bob Lemay

The chine line is marked on the stem template. It is very small and easy to miss

I found that using a piece of 1/8 standard hardboard ("Masonite" ) works well for checking curved surfaces. It bends well ( not the "tempered" stuff tho ) is cheap, and will definately not bend on two planes at once.

Doug

JMHO from looking at your sketch...I still think once the top edge of the chine is faired for the bottom planking the side would be so close you would not need to reposition the chine at all. Thickened epoxy would fill whatever slight void would be left.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
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Take a nice sized c-clamp and use as a lever to twist the chine until you get the right angle near the stem. Once you find it you can cut the angle on the chine and check the fit. Your concerns are well founded since fairing away that side portion of chine isn't good practice.

Just to clarify what I was saying above...I was not recommending to fair the side of the chine but rather to fair the top to accept the bottom skin. Once it's faired for the bottom it would be really close....again, just my opinion.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

i didnt concern myself with where the chine hit the stem, It ended up where it ended up. The thing that got me was the fact that, the closer i got to the stem, the angle on the chine got inverted, meaning, as the bottom and side planking wrapped around the front of the boat forward of frame five, the angle where the side and bottom planking meet at the chine, went from convex, to flat, to concave where it hit the stem.

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RetroMan
Built A Zip/Flying Saucer. I do my boating on South Oyster Bay, Long Island, NY
Documenting my build on YouTube @ http://www.youtube.com/SuperUnknownMC

I really like the idea of using the rabl method on the chine to stem/keel section and I have managed to get my head around using it there but the chine to sheer area is a bit of an mystery due to the stem section splitting the two planes.
Using the RABL method should we divide the chine and sheer lengths into equal lengths to find the fair angles measuring from the stem intersection of each?

[quote="J Clark"]chine to sheer fairing is a problem for me, i will wing it. sketched some things in sketchup. I want it to float, next time around, hopefully will have learned something. maybe form it in blue styrafoam and proceed from there.