Glen-L.com

Yes I do have the Boat building with plywood book. I have read the section on decking. I did some further looking at where the frames come in contact with the sides and I can see that it won't take much sanding to get the sheer faired. Will the amount that the sheer is beveled change towards the bow. From frame 5.5 forward. Should I put in the the deck battens first to obtain that angle.
Jeff

I would put in the deck battens first....on a Zip, it looks like a some what crown and this would change the fairing slightly .

You did the hull, this will be a snap once you get into it

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Youre right its not a lot of fairing its just that it goes around the entire boat so it takes some time.

Yes, like Warren suggested I would install the deck battens first so you can use them as a guide. The angle changes slightly but not much.

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

In looking at the plans and reading the book. I was wondering if all of the deck battens,strongback and side pieces (carling,blocking) should be installed first and then fair sheer.
Also when you make the strong back is the front where it attaches to the breathook tapered to a point?
I plan on using mahogany wood for all of these pieces.OK
Jeff

I had all the battens and carlings and other framing on before I faired the top and shears. The strongback needs to be tapered and installed set back a little from the stem/breasthook joint. The top of the breasthook gets faired in with the strongback so you get a nice smooth slope of the deck.

Go to this part of my build and maybe a page back to see how I mounted the battens and strongback and faired them in.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=10702&start=525

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Roberta
Where can I find your pictures of your zip build.
So i can look through
On the carlings did you use 3/4" wood or plane it to 5/8" like the plans call for.
On the strong back is there any knotching done to the berast hook. Or do I just taper the end to fit.
Jeff

Roberta's thread:

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=10702

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Thanks, Warren.

Jeff, Either link above will get to my build thread. Warren's will take you back to day one. Mine gets you to where I was attaching battens and the strongback. If the links aren't working for you, Just go back to the Small Outboards topic and look for Roberta's Zip.

I did notch the strongback, Tapered the end, and faired the breasthook. I used 3/4" for the carlings.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

I see in the material list that you need to buy 1x4x8 for the carlings runabout. 5/8x6x12 for the utility.
On the deck framing plan it says that 2 1/2 for the carlings. Where would you use the 6" material.
What size did you all use.
Jeff

OK I have made a pattern of the landing of the strongback on the beasthook.
Does this look like what is supposted to be. See pics.
If not tell me what I did wrong.
I am going to cut a piece of wood and knotch it to the breasthook from the bottom so it supports the strongback.
Jeff

Your strongback looks fine. You'll want to fair a nice transition to the point of the stem. If you have a small gap between the end of the strongback and the point on the stem, just add a filler piece. The objective is to have a nice smooth line down the strongback to the point on the stem so the plywood sets well.

The carlings need to be at least 2 1/2" for structural strength, but you can go wider if you want to. Mine are about 3 1/2". Remember to make them a little high because you will be fairing them down for the athwart-ship curve and possibly the curve fore and aft. Otherwise you will have straight lines and the deck won't have the smooth curves.

The 6" material might be for the seatback rails.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Are you saying that my strongback that i have in the picture needs to go all the way to the point of the bow.
Jeff

The fair line needs to go to the point. It's difficult to explain, but everything needs to fair together so when you lay down the plywood sheeting, the ply can be layed down so that all edges of the ply contact associated points of the framing, carlings, shears, battens and any other surfaces along the way. The end of the strongback should be located so that the fairing of the shears, breasthook, and strongback best blend together to get a good fit for the decking.

Fairing worked best for me by starting at the rear of the boat and working toward the bow. The framing and carlings will dictate how the shears will be faired. As you near the bow, the fairing will become more clear. You really have to use your imagination, go slow, and check often with small a piece (3' x 2') of plywood.

Roberta

_________________
Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Thanks. You all have been a great help.
Jeff

Ok I cut and fitted the strongback and the 2 deck battens. One of the pic shows this. nothing glued in place.
The other pic shows a pointer ( pencil) pointing to the siide of the strongback. Does the front of the strong back get sort of rounded so that the plywood will lay on to the other battens.
Jeff