Utility build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility build

Post by BarnacleMike » Wed Jul 13, 2016 8:08 pm

vupilot wrote:Does that mean its done! ?
It's not QUITE done, but it's close. There are two main things left to do:
  1. 1. I need to do the wiring for the bilge pump and switch.
  • 2. I'm giving serious consideration to bolting the motor to the transom
The last couple of times going to the lake have been rough on my back... putting the motor in the back of the SUV, getting it out, putting it on the boat, taking it off the boat, putting it back in the SUV, getting it out again at home, putting it back on its stand in the garage...

I hate to drill holes through the transom, but it would be so much easier to have the motor on the boat most/all of the time. I'd appreciate any insight on attaching the motor, trailering issues, etc.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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Roberta
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Re: Utility build

Post by Roberta » Thu Jul 14, 2016 5:00 am

I think the naming of your boat brings life and presence to it.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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vupilot
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Re: Utility build

Post by vupilot » Thu Jul 14, 2016 7:49 am

Have you had a chance to try the second tilt position? Did that improve the speed and ride with the bow higher? Does the motor seem to be exactly the right height, no weird spray, no cavitation etc? If you have all the fine tuning of where you want the motor then yeah, you could bolt in in place. I just clamped mine but it had a leash on it so if it ever came off it couldn't sink and probably wouldn't even hit the ground if on the trailer. It was also lighter than your four stroke. WIth such a small boat I found it may make the trailer really heavy behind the axle and the tongue may not have any weight on it. If you can, move your axle aft if its adjustable to compensate. Mine wasn't adjustable and with the motor on the boat the tongue weight was only maybe 5-10 lbs which caused it to pull up on the ball and hitch when going over bumps. I didn't like that so I always took the motor off to trailer.

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mrintense
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Re: Utility build

Post by mrintense » Sun Jul 17, 2016 9:10 am

Nice work on the name Mike. Just think how different your Zip build will be now that you have experience as well as a boat to use when you get tired of working on the ZIp. :D :D
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility build

Post by BarnacleMike » Mon Jul 18, 2016 5:52 am

I haven't had the boat back at the lake yet, so I haven't been able to test the motor adjustment. I'm looking forward to trying it out.

My trailer does have an adjustable axle, so I should be able to move it back a little bit. Those are all good points on the weight distribution & tongue weight. I won't rush to bolt the motor on. I hate to drill holes through the transom... but that last trip out was brutal on my back, moving the motor around so much.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility build

Post by BarnacleMike » Mon Jul 18, 2016 5:53 am

mrintense wrote:Nice work on the name Mike. Just think how different your Zip build will be now that you have experience as well as a boat to use when you get tired of working on the ZIp. :D :D
Thank you, Carl! And yes... my thoughts exactly :)
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility build

Post by BarnacleMike » Fri Jul 22, 2016 5:13 pm

neel thompson wrote:Michael.... I used the same switch and the ground wire on the switch itself goes to the negative side of the battery. I think that is a ground for the small indicator lights on the switch panel. The pump should also have a ground wire, and that wire goes to the negative side of the battery as well. See you soon... Your boat looks great.... Neel
Neel,

I know that I need to run a ground wire from the ground lead on the pump to the negative terminal on the battery.

Do I also need to run an additional ground wire from the ground lead on the switch, all the way to the battery?

Or, can I tie the ground leads from both the pump and the switch into a common ground wire that runs to the negative terminal on the battery?

Sorry if this is a dumb question.... but I know nothing about wiring.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

gdcarpenter
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Re: Utility build

Post by gdcarpenter » Fri Jul 22, 2016 6:49 pm

Hi Michael, electricity can be intimidating because you don't see it.

Think of the circuit as a plumbing 'loop' - what leaves th battery must return to the battery.

Ergo from battery positive (preferably through a fuse) to one terminal of the switch, from the other terminal of the switch to the pump, and from the pump to the negative terminal of th battery - then the 'circle loop' is complete.
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

neel thompson
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Re: Utility build

Post by neel thompson » Sat Jul 23, 2016 4:18 am

Hi MIchael...... I just saw this post this morning. GD is right and all you have to do is tie all grounds together and run one wire to the negative terminal of the battery. See you soon...Neel

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Roberta
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Re: Utility build

Post by Roberta » Sat Jul 23, 2016 5:18 am

I used grounding bus bars in convenient locations. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the neg. batt. term to the bus bars. Then I could run shorter wires from the devices to the bus bars convenient to them. Here is a Home Depot link to the type I used. They have several sizes.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-5-Term ... /100133761

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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mrintense
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Re: Utility build

Post by mrintense » Sat Jul 23, 2016 8:09 am

Roberta wrote:I used grounding bus bars in convenient locations. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the neg. batt. term to the bus bars. Then I could run shorter wires from the devices to the bus bars convenient to them. Roberta
See, this is what I love about this forum and the people that frequent it. It's a simple thing you said Roberta, and perhaps common sense, but for those of us who tend to get blinded by the forest and cannot see the trees, well, this simple sentence makes a difference. It's so obvious now that you say it. Put negative bus bars in convenient locations! I was wondering about that while trying to get my wiring diagram together. Thanks!! :D :D
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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Roberta
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Re: Utility build

Post by Roberta » Sat Jul 23, 2016 8:16 am

Thanks, Carl!! Glad to help.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility build

Post by BarnacleMike » Sat Jul 23, 2016 7:35 pm

I think the bus bar is a great idea, Roberta. I'll keep that in mind for the Zip, as it will require a bit more wiring than the Utility.

Knowing that I could run both ground leads to a common wire, I simply used a splice connector to connect the ground from the pump to the main ground (negative) wire. I got it all wired up, and tested it by bumping the manual override switch a couple of times. I'm happy to say that it all works. I thought the light would come on with the switch set to "Auto," but it doesn't. It comes on when bumped to "Manual," so I assume it only comes on when the pump is running.

I wound up routing the wires with self-adhesive quick-clips. I hated drilling holes through the frames to run the wire!
Attachments
IMG_1167.jpg
You can see the blue splicing connector just to the left of the switch.
IMG_1168.jpg
IMG_1162.jpg
Last edited by BarnacleMike on Sat Jul 23, 2016 7:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility build

Post by BarnacleMike » Sat Jul 23, 2016 7:41 pm

All that remains to be done is to coat the holes I drilled with epoxy, to water seal them.
Attachments
IMG_1171.jpg
IMG_1166.jpg
IMG_1164.jpg
I used simple plastic clamps to secure the bilge pump hose to the transom.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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mrintense
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Re: Utility build

Post by mrintense » Sun Jul 24, 2016 7:00 am

Looking good Mike. Have you decided to install the outboard yet?
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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