Glen-L.com

Bill
I think I have it sorted out and I certainly wont be using CSM. I will be using 6oz cloth and will be ordering it today.
Managed to get the last bottom panel on yesterday, which was a bit of a challenge with nowhere to clamp, but fortunately had a helping hand for the first time on this project so it worked well.
Today I will be filling and sanding all those hundreds of screw holes, oh, what a joy!!!!
Have a great day.
Keith

_________________
Calm Spirit

Keith

I don't think you will go wrong with 6 oz.

Bill

_________________
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Today I fibreglassed my Zip, all except the transom, which I will do tomorrow, with the help of some friends.
Also tomorrow I need to flood the 6oz cloth to get a smooth finish.
My question is now about the water line.
From my reading I understand that the draught of the boat is 4". I was thinking of putting the waterline 7" above the chine at the transom and taper to the hull/ bottom plank joint at the bow.
Would anyone care to comment on this please.
Keith

_________________
Calm Spirit

Nice job. It turned out to be pretty easy wasnt it?

The actual waterline on my Zip sits at 4-1/2 inches at the transom. Abeam frame 4 its 2-1/4 inches measured up from the bottom/side joint along the chine.
This is with a 150 pound motor and battery in the back with fuel tank up front under the bow. Hopefully that gives you a starting point and you can guess at your adjustments from there for your equipment.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Thanks Vupilot for draft info, that is a big help.
On thing I have noticed from the photos is the length of the skeg. It seems to vary a lot from the recommended standard, which seems to be about 95" long.
Would anyone care to comment on this and the effects that are a result of varying lengths.
I have made mine to standard but have not glued it on yet, so still time to change.

Have a great day
Keith

_________________
Calm Spirit

The higher and longer the skeg is, the slower it will turn. But, the boat will rock more slowly when you get in or out.

Bill

_________________
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

So, in your opinion, is the standard skeg length appropriate or to long.
Keith

_________________
Calm Spirit

I really don't know on the zip. Most people say to leave it off and see how it the boat acts. you can add one later.

Bill

_________________
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

My skeg is a short one maybe 3ft or a little more and the boat slides in shallow, lazy turns but when turned a little steeper and the boat leans a little it carves a really nice turn like its on rails. Its a nice mix but the longer skeg is probably the way to go for the most consistant handling. All the other Zips I have ridden in have longer skegs than mine and I dont notice a big difference except the longer ones make shallow turns with less drift, more on rails feeling all the time but they all seem to turn sharply the same, it seems like in sharp turns the chine is doing most of the work unless you leave the skeg off completely, then they slide in turns similar to driving in the snow, which is fun too if thats what you enjoy. Allen B has no skeg on his squirt and its a hoot but you have to anticipate that in an emergency it wouldnt change direction as fast as a skeg would allow.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Caution with bi-axial. On Lo Volt I use the bi-axial on inside seams for strenth and the cloth dries very ROUGH you will spend a life time trying to fix it. I actually would lay the bi-axial and the cloth right over it on the seams and still had some trouble that l had to take care of with voids between it and the bi-axial but was easier to deal with than the rough bi-axial finish. I also used the filitting compound to smooth out rough places that were going to be painted anyway.

Have fun.

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

Thanks guys.
I will leave the skeg long and see how we go.

Keith

_________________
Calm Spirit

Just thought I would let you all know that I righted my Zip hull last weekend with no problems. Had all the family around and had it over in about 10 minutes.
Now the fub starts with doing the deck and interior.
The first thing I did was laminate in bearer extensions to the chine where I had cut them off on the frame. I am actually happy about this because it offers extra support right where the cradle will be on my tender lift.
Today I worked out how to put fuel tanks (2) under the front seats, which requires recessing them as much as possible into the floor. Tomorrow I hope to set these in properly and then encapsulate the interior of the hull before installing the floor.

Have a great day
Keith

_________________
Calm Spirit

That's some very clean work! Nicely done!

I am keenly interested in how your modified hull performs. From what little I can tell from your pictures, the lines seem fair and it looks like it was designed that way. If I didn't know it was a Zip, I'd have never guessed it.

Good job! Keep the pics coming.

_________________
Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad