Squirt in Minnesota

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Steve S
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Location: Big Fish Lake, MN.

Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:44 am

I was in the “Wood and Plywood“ section and moved to this area because I think it is more correct. I did get good answers there, but this seems to be a better fit for all my questions. :)
I bought a Glen-L’s fastener kit for my Squirt build. I was disappointed there is no carriage bolts in the kit. They must not do any fastening. 8) However, there are lots of screws and nails. I understand the 1” nails are to be used in the gussets on the frames. However, what about the rest? I would think the 3” screws would have a special use.
I received:
A bag of 2” flat head?
4 each 3” flat head?
One box of 1¼” ring nails?
Three boxes of 1” ring nails?
I know there are lots of successful Squirt builders out there that have all the answers.
Thanks, Steve
Squirt build

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Jul 25, 2013 6:04 am

Hi Steve,

Much of the intended purposes for the different sizes of screws and nails should be outlined in the building instructions for the Squirt. The 2" screws will likely be used to fasten the keel, battens, chine log and sheer clamps to the frames.

I believe the only thing you'll need carriage bolts for on the Squirt are to fasten the lapped deck beam onto the forward frame, and also to fasten the stem to the keel.

I'd start by taking a close look at the building instructions.... Much of the info you're looking for should be there.

Hope this helps!
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Steve S
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Joined: Mon May 06, 2013 1:35 pm
Location: Big Fish Lake, MN.

Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Thu Jul 25, 2013 6:42 am

Thanks BarnacleMike,
I have looked at the plans but will look closer. Wouldn’t be the first time I missed something.
Makes sense to use the 2” screws as you suggest. The carriage bolts are for the knee to the keel and transom and the stem to the keel. What’s the “lapped deck beam onto the forward frame”? Are the 1” nails for the bottom plaking as well as for the gussets? And, what about the 4-3” screws? I know, look at the planes…
Thanks, Steve
Squirt build

Steve S
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Location: Big Fish Lake, MN.

Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Thu Jul 25, 2013 6:45 am

Sorry, I meant plans … not planes….
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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Jul 25, 2013 7:21 am

Ah yes, I forgot about the transom knees!

When you received your plans, you should've gotten a couple of smaller publications that go along with them... "Build It Yourself The Glen-L Way", and "Building The Squirt" (which should also include a Bill of Materials). It's in the "Building The Squirt" publication that you should find instructions on what types of fasteners to use in the various stages, etc...

In case no one has mentioned it to you yet, be careful with those silicon bronze screws... They'll strip out on you very easily. Personally, I'd avoid using a powered screwdriver.

The deck beam is the long, "top" beam that goes on the forward frame. In the Squirt design, it is "lapped," meaning that it fits onto the forward surface of the side frame members, rather than being in the same plane as the other frame members. Like this...
Attachments
IMG_3845.jpg
Lapped deck beam
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Steve S
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon May 06, 2013 1:35 pm
Location: Big Fish Lake, MN.

Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:44 am

Ah yes. I have one of those deck beams cut out already. Thanks Mike. I will read all the stuff that came with the plans this evening and hopefully I will not have any more questions…ya, right!
Steve
Squirt build

Steve S
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:18 am

Thanks Mike,
I feel the fool now. There is a lot of info in that small publication. I forgot all about it. I also emailed Darla at Glen-l to ask about the 4- #12 x 3” screws and why I have no 1¼” #8 screws. She is sending the #8 screws and said I could keep the #12’s. She has no idea what they are for. :)
Glen-l has been a nice company to work with.
Steve
Squirt build

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby BarnacleMike » Fri Jul 26, 2013 12:23 pm

Hi Steve,

No problem at all. This forum is a fantastic resource for seeking help on this stuff. I'd certainly be really stuck without it!

I agree... The folks at Glen-L are extremely easy to work with. I'm looking forward to seeing progress on your build!
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Steve S
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon May 06, 2013 1:35 pm
Location: Big Fish Lake, MN.

Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Tue Aug 06, 2013 6:25 am

Hi again.
I finished my building frame and started mounting the frames and stem. I cut the keel and battens out of an African mahogany board that was 14 inches wide. There must have been a lot of stresses in that board because most of the boards I cut ended up bent in every direction. Will these crooked battens give me a problem later in my build? It is bent in the right direction....

Thanks, Steve
Image

Image
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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby BarnacleMike » Tue Aug 06, 2013 6:31 am

Hi Steve,

My 2¢ is that those outer battens won't be much of an issue up forward. As you mentioned, they're bending in the right direction. As for myself, I'd probably run with it as-is.

Take that with a grain of salt, though... I haven't actually finished a boat yet :)
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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rbrandenstein
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby rbrandenstein » Tue Aug 06, 2013 11:57 am

The battens support the bottom plywood and should form a straight line from frame to frame in the rear and form a fair curve as you go the front. The fairing process will correct a lot. Attaching to the frames will take out some twist, but if you have high or low spots it will take extra work. Some of the higher spots can be planed or sanded down during fairing. A low spot may require some epoxy filler or additional wood.

As with all wood projects, good straight lumber makes things a lot easier.
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Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
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Fred Østli
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Fred Østli » Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:38 pm

Hello Steve. Seems like we are about the same stage in our build, so i will follow your topic. Mine is here: http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17106 looks like you build in your livingroom...? Guess you can build thru the winter then. My workshop is not heated during wintertime, so I guess you soon get ahead of me :-) Good luck with the progress!

Regards Fred

Steve S
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Location: Big Fish Lake, MN.

Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:53 am

Fred, I read your topic and you are right, we are at the same stage. Don’t work to fast I don’t want to fall to far behind. I’m building my Squirt in my downstairs living room. It has a sliding door so I will be able to get the boat out when done. It gets to cold in Minnesota to work in the winter. I guess I should take down the picture and put up a “Snap-On” calendar or something more shop appropriate. :wink: Good luck with your build, also.
Bob and Michael, I will clamp the battens to the frames and inspect and decide what is more important, my time or the cash to buy more wood.
I have taken the frames off the building frame and I am encapsulating them with epoxy. Is it a good idea to clean the blush off the epoxy after it has dried and before reassembling? I noticed that the epoxy dried kind of ruff. How do I prevent this? I think I had better go read up on the epoxy part of this forum. I’m sure they will have all the answers for me.
Michael, are you building two boats at the same time??????

Thanks for the help,
Steve
Squirt build

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:28 am

Steve S wrote:Michael, are you building two boats at the same time??????


Sort of... The Utility is my "learner boat," and the Zip is coming along behind it at a much, much, much slower pace.

On the frame encapsulation, you can assemble & epoxy the frame first, then encapsulate the whole thing afterwards. On my frames, I encapsulated with a layer of epoxy, then waited a day or two and scrubbed off the amine blush with warm water, a little dish detergent, and a scotch brite pad. Then, after that dried off, I sanded the epoxy a little bit with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it down, then added another layer of epoxy. I did that until I had 3 layers of epoxy on the frames. My plan is to add primer and paint later on.

Roberta here on the forum is a real expert at epoxy and finishing, if she can chime in...
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Steve S
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon May 06, 2013 1:35 pm
Location: Big Fish Lake, MN.

Re: Squirt in Minnesota

Postby Steve S » Thu Aug 08, 2013 12:05 pm

I was just reading Glen-L’s epoxy manual and read that you should coat all surfaces with Poxy-Shield before gluing with Poxy- Grip. I didn’t do that to my frames. :( I just coated one surface with Poxy-Grip and pounded in the nails. How much is this going to affect my glue joints? They appear strong. Any ideas?

Thanks Steve
Squirt build


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