Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Gayle Brantuk
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby Gayle Brantuk » Tue Nov 26, 2013 12:23 pm

Correct, the points would be equally spaced.
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Andy Garrett
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby Andy Garrett » Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:55 am

Image

Gayle,
My central point is that the Rabl Method is fine, but that it does not jive with the existing frame shape of the Zip.

The instructions for Rabl indicate that you should use a straight edge between points A and A, B and B, etc. That's all great, but when we plug in the first frame of the Zip where it might appear in the graphic above, say at points D and D for the sake of illustration, we would see a radiused line along the edge of that frame between the Keel and the Chine, not the straight line indicated by the dotted lines and established by the use of a straight edge.

Does this make sense?
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

bobinpowayca
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby bobinpowayca » Mon Dec 02, 2013 1:52 pm

Yeah, I see what you're saying Andy. The frame has a little curvature and the cut you're making in the chine or stem/keel is flat. Maybe this Rabl method is good to get "almost" there, i.e., rasp almost to the line and use a piece of ply for the final shaping.
I'm building the Geronimo, I notched the chine and keel where they intersected the frames and then power-planed between these notches, as you can see in the pictures the piece of wood my power plane fixture rode on was between the frames and only about 6" from either the keel or chine. But I could only do this to the most forward frame, close to the front of the keel for my boat.
From the most forward frame to the stem I plan on using the Rabl method (starting today) and yes, there is some curvature in the bottom sheathing in this area but not much and for the final shaping I'll use a piece of 3/8 ply. The Rabl method cuts will get it close first.
Bob
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Bob
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Built the Glen-L 17 (1988), Geronimo under construction (2013)
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Mojo
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby Mojo » Tue Dec 10, 2013 2:42 am

Come on Polarisman, Any progress?
I've been lazy with my build over the past few weeks. It's pretty much sat untouched. It will need to wait until next year for it's paint and flip.

Cheers
Mojo

polarisman14
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby polarisman14 » Sun Dec 22, 2013 8:00 am

I'm running a severe lack of motivation right now too Mojo. With Christmas right around the corner I may find some newfound motivation if I get some boat parts as gifts but as of right now it is a chilly 45 degrees in the basement which does 2 things. I have some fairing left to go before the side and bottom planking is ready to go on but it's really cold (whiner!!!) and the epoxy won't cure properly when I put those on which is a legitimate concern. At this point unless my buddy Jared comes over and kicks my ass for not working on it then not much is gonna change until late winter/early spring where boating season will be a month or two away and I'll say "oh crap, time to build a boat." Oh well.

Mojo
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby Mojo » Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:43 pm

I find the best thing for it is just to get back in to it. Aim to put 30min work in and you will find the momentum flows from there. That won't help with the cold though.
Cheers
Mojo

polarisman14
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby polarisman14 » Wed Dec 25, 2013 1:52 pm

Yeah I put a half-hour into the fairing and that definitely helped things along.

Merry Christmas to all!

My wife got me a $50 gift card to the local lumber place so I can buy another sheet of meranti ply. That brings my total up to 4 pieces so I should have almost enough to do the hull. Addionally, I ended up with a couple hundred in cash so I should be able to get some fiberglass and resin. Then I'll have to hold off until tax return time to put any more into it. With any luck I will be able to afford the primer and paint for the bottom with my chunk of the tax return. I gotta divvy up the funds between that, my snowmobile, and my car so I can make progress on everything.

My snowmobile got new knee pads and my car is getting a new battery, fusible links, and alternator.

polarisman14
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby polarisman14 » Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:19 am

I'm at 81 hours now. I put another 45 minutes or so into the fairing today and I'm getting to the point where I need to start dialing back the depth of the cuts with the planer to not go too far.

How do you determine the position of the line on the chine from frame 5 1/2 to the stem? I can't be entirely sure but it seems to me from looking at the boatbuilding with plywood book that it starts right at the upper part of 5 1/2 and gradually moves down the chine to the halfway point where it meets the stem. Is this correct?

Trying to avoid making any serious mistakes this far into the build. As it is I think the curvature of the chine from the stem to 5 1/2 is too shallow and I will have to laminate a second piece to the outside of it in order to have material to fair away for the side and bottom planking to meet up with.

gdcarpenter
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby gdcarpenter » Sun Jan 12, 2014 2:09 pm

If I understand correctly you are trying to determine the 'line' on the chine that divides bottom from side ply. I just faired my chine so that line was dead centered along the length of the chine.
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

polarisman14
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby polarisman14 » Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:00 pm

^^That's correct, that's what I am trying to determine. And when you say "the length of the chine" do you mean the entire length or just from 5 1/2 forward?

I spent another hour and a half working on it and I am almost as far as I can get with the electric planer without doing some serious dialing down of the cut depth and fitting with a piece of ply. I'm roughing in the vee on the keel as well as matching the transom up with the keel. Things are looking pretty solid but no photo updates as it looks nearly identical to the last photo update.

82.5 hours.

gdcarpenter
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby gdcarpenter » Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:53 pm

Hopefully these photos may be of some help., taken at end of fairing, start of ply installation.

Been so long kinda forgot what frame # was what frame #, but, if memory is correct, from transom to frame 4 it's a clear distinction between side ply and bottom ply. Forward of frame 4 is when you have to start working with scrap sheets of ply bent over the frames, chines, shears, keel, etc to figure out the fairing. The magic dividing line in pretty much centered on the chine forward of frame 4. You want a good bit of surface area for both the side and bottom ply to adhere to the chine,

Keep up the good work, stop and think, or as my dad used to say "measure twice, cut once".
Attachments
DSC02621.JPG
DSC02610.JPG
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

polarisman14
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby polarisman14 » Mon Jan 13, 2014 6:57 am

Based on your pictures it looks like I may have to laminate an extra strip in between 5 1/2 and the stem. The vee on the front of my boat is much more pronounced because the chines don't have as much bow outward on the front as yours do. I think I need to flatten the vee out a bit and make the chine's bend follow that imaginary arc instead of making a really steep vee at the front of the boat. I'll look at others first but I think that's where I'm at. Thanks!

polarisman14
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby polarisman14 » Sat Sep 06, 2014 3:04 pm

Well,

I'm kinda ashamed that this has dropped a few pages down on the forum, and that my last update was a full 9 months ago. Ironically enough part of the reasoning for that was because a month ago I became a dad to a beautiful, healthy baby girl. It's definitely not an excuse because I've had a LOT of down time as well, but have been lacking motivation to get re-started on this project. As the weather gets colder and boating season ends, I'll start working on this again instead of being out on my friend's boat enjoying the water.

I'm still battling an intermittent spark issue with my outboard but have made great strides in getting it fixed. New points, condensers, coils, spark plugs, fuel lines, and crimp-style spark plug ends along with a fuel pump diaphragm and gasket, and carburetor rebuild kit. I think the issue I am dealing with is still ignition related (somehow...Maybe bad new old stock parts?) and I am buying an in-line spark tester tomorrow to diagnose the problem as it happens. I think I will get motivated to work on the saucer if the powerplant that will make its way on there eventually starts working properly.

Anyway, just wanted to drop a line and let anyone following my build know that I'm still alive and that sometime soon I'll pick up where I left off. With the baby in the house progress will be a little slow and the idea of hiring a professional to finish the fairing for me is now out, but it'll get done. 8)

--Matt--

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travis24
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby travis24 » Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:13 pm

Matt

What are you powering with?

Travis
It's like anything you Build. You have to be Patient.

Measure Twice, cut Once.

Keep em Alive ! Vintage & Antique outboards

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polarisman14
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Re: Stretched Flying Saucer Build

Postby polarisman14 » Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:21 am

Travis,

As long as I can get it running reliably, I will be powering with a 35hp Chrysler 2-stroke outboard, 15" shaft. It's appeal is its 127lb weight.


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