Aussie Flying Saucer

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Flash
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Flash » Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:21 pm

I was just looking at the gallery pictures of Flying Saucers and it looks like almost everyone has a larger motor than 25HP.
It seems like the 25hp rating must be mainly about transom strength rather than controllability?
Flash
Yellow Submarine II - Flying Saucer
Summer Wind - Zip

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Bill Edmundson » Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:08 pm

There seems to be a tendency to over power these wood boats. These boats are very light as compared with glass boats. There is a misconception that wood boats are very heavy. They are not.

How fast do you want to go in a FS? How fast do you want a kid to go in your FS?

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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Flash
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Flash » Fri Jun 06, 2014 7:13 am

Thanks Bill,

At my age ( 67 ) with a few little ones as passengers, I will most likely stick to the rated HP.
Flash
Yellow Submarine II - Flying Saucer
Summer Wind - Zip

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Jun 06, 2014 7:43 am

Flash

My main point is that those little ones grow up. They can run a boat sometimes before they have sense to run a boat.

Of coarse, That never applied to me! :roll:

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Flash
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Flash » Fri Jun 06, 2014 9:37 am

Nor me,

Steve
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Summer Wind - Zip

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Andy Garrett » Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:27 pm

I am a bit confused about the FS having a 25HP rating while the Zip has a 40HP rating.

They are practically the same boat--they have the exact same frames and differ only in length unless I am in error.

If you build the FS 10% longer than the 12'4" listed length, and you build the Zip 10% shorter than the 14'4" listed length (both options are offered), then you would have a FS that is 7" longer than a Zip. The beam is identical.

So what explains the HP difference if you can build the exact same length boat from either set of plans? What am I missing. It must be something major because there is also 185lb weight difference in the hull.

Ideas?
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Andy Garrett » Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:39 pm

It's worth noting that Michael Telep's FS, which was a fairly basic hull weighs 390lbs, with no motor or battery. That's WAAY more than the 190 that the listing suggests--even more than the Zip but close.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Mojo » Mon Jun 09, 2014 1:49 am

Hi Flash,
You could always laminate thin layers for the chine and sheer. Easier to bend a piece that is 3/8 wide rather then full width. I used one solid piece for the chine, but had 3 x 3/8 layers for the sheer. In hind sight I would do the chine in at least 2 laminates.
The other trick is wrapping them with towels and pouring boiling water on.

My 35hp probably only has the power equivalent to a new 25hp. The newer outboards have their power rated at the prop, where as mine is rated at the powerhead, you lose 5hp there. Being 30 years old I also suspect it has lost power with age. Also much easier to find a 35hp with electric start and forward controls then it is to find a 25hp.

I would love to know the difference if any between the Zip and FS.

Cheers
Mojo

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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Flash » Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:03 am

Hi Mojo,

I like the laminating idea. I wasn't sure we could do that with the chines. I was working on the shears yesterday and it was obvious that they were going to break. So, I made a steam box out of a 12' piece of 6" PVC pipe. I bought a Wagner wall paper steamer for $50 at Home Depot and the 1st layer of shears are on. I also did the chines over with steam and it worked much better.

Since I haven't looked for a motor yet, that's good information on the 25 vs. 35hp. I hope to find an electric start so that should help.

Thanks for the help,
Flash
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Mojo » Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:54 am

The boat has progressed to the point of sea trials, which so far haven't been overly successful.

I have 2x Johnson 35hp's, which are both 30 years old. I launched a few weeks ago using outboard #1. This trip lasted about 5 minutes. The motor would die when throttle was opened, so the best I got to do was idling around. The boat floated, so that was a bonus. After a few minutes one of the spark plugs blew out and the day was over.

We helicoiled the spark plug hole and I cleaned the carby out. Launched it again yesterday, It ran better, but wasn't developing full power and overheated. We paddled home, lucky we weren't to far from the ramp. The outboard wasn't seized, but the cylinders were a bit scored.

Today I swapped all the good bits from outboard #1 over to outboard #2. #2 had better compression, so I was hoping for improved power. She started beautifully and had good water flow. I increased revs and within about 5 seconds there was a "crunch" and she stopped. Pulled the head off to find the bottom piston was no longer connected to the crankshaft. I'm guessing the conrod broke.

It's been fun mucking around with the engines, but it's time to admit defeat and buy a brand new motor. Hopefully we can then have a proper run in the boat. I still have a few jobs left to do on the rest of the boat, perhaps I'll get to that while I wait for the new motor to arrive.

Cheers
Mojo

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vupilot
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby vupilot » Sun Jun 22, 2014 5:14 am

Wow, that is some luck to have such serious failures on two motors! I hope your next report has a happier conclusion.

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travis24
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby travis24 » Sun Jun 22, 2014 9:58 am

Mojo,

Sorry about your luck with the vintage motors. On that topic if you just threw the vintage motor on the boat and though it would run perfect that was a mistake, do dillegence and maintenance is needed. Everyone must understand if you would like a vintage outboard on your boat it takes work. You need to either know about them or get in a local club in your area to learn about and meet people that are vintage mechanics or have worked on them for many years. What you put into your vintage motor you'll get out of it. Also if you try and take you motors to dealers now they will not work on them. Most builders on this site should stick with the new motors pay up and be happy. Good luck with your choice and do what is best for what you want out of the boat.

Travis
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BarnacleMike
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby BarnacleMike » Mon Jun 23, 2014 6:19 am

Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the motor, Mojo. I'm looking forward to seeing what new motor you use instead.

To Travis' point, this type of thing is exactly why I bought a new motor. I didn't want to have to keep tinkering with a motor to keep it running once the boat is built.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
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Mojo
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Mojo » Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:10 pm

I hadn't done a full ground up rebuild on the engines, but had done the basics (water pump, head gasket, check cylinder walls, exhaust cooling cover, carby rebuild, etc) I figured I take the gamble on the lower end being reasonable as once you start removing old bolts from cast aluminium it can be a slippery slope of pain.

I think the older outboards are suited to the style of the boat and all the new ones only appear to come in black. But I guess the newer outboards have the benefit of reliability.

Hopefully have the new outboard in the next few weeks and can then finally have a proper test run.

Cheers
Mojo

Flash
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Re: Aussie Flying Saucer

Postby Flash » Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:31 pm

Hi Mojo,

May I ask what new motor you decided on?

Thanks,
Flash
Flash
Yellow Submarine II - Flying Saucer
Summer Wind - Zip


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