Squirt in CT

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Bergy
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Location: Columbia, CT

Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Bergy » Sun Jun 08, 2014 1:03 pm

Mike,
Weather permitting, we are planning to have happy hour at Roger Ryley's house on Friday, June 27th. I hope you can make it there. I'll post more details on the forum soon.

Howard
"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
Abraham Lincoln

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sun Jun 08, 2014 1:07 pm

Howard

:) We'll be there.

Bill and Lauren
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Bergy
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Location: Columbia, CT

Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Bergy » Sun Jun 08, 2014 1:14 pm

Got y'all on the list Bill. Lula Mae is ready to party.
"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
Abraham Lincoln

mdweber
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:43 pm

Thanks for the invite, Howard!

I'm gonna book a slip for the weekend. Unfortunately I'll be on a SeaRay and not my own build!

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Bill Edmundson » Mon Jun 09, 2014 1:07 pm

:lol: A Squirt would be a little cramped to spend a weekend in! :wink:

Looking forward to meeting you.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

mdweber
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:39 pm

Progress!

2014-06-03 15.08.59.jpg


As the side and bottom panels continue to be fitted on the frames, I'm thinking about encapsulation. Is it a bad idea to epoxy coat the inner portions of planking that will not be fastened to the battens/chines/keel/sheers. In other words, once the boat is flipped I will have to encapsulate the inside of the boat. Would it be a bad idea to begin encapsulating those portions before I attach them to the frames.

I would like to do this to prevent runs, but wonder whether the planking, which would be painted with epoxy when flat, would be able to conform the the shape of the boat.

gdcarpenter
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby gdcarpenter » Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:58 pm

For what it's worth I scarfed my panels and was working with 16' hull ply sheathing. I full epoxy coated both sides of all the panels while they were lying flat on the work bench, made that job easy. I had no difficulty installing/bending the panels at install time.

I also built 'molds' for floatation. Imagine draping fiberglass over an upside down wash basin and applying epoxy. It was amazing how flexible and pliant the fiberglass mold I made was. The point being that cured epoxy IS flexible.

I epoxied both sides and made no allowance to keep the epoxy off areas that contacted the framing at install time, I personally don't see much if any significant bond strength difference between properly prepped epoxy or bare wood. I did epoxy, but not fasten, the hull ply to the frames.
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

mdweber
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:24 pm

Update and a question.

Taking the extra time to fair certainly paid off! The side and bottom panels went on very easily. Only have the port bottom panel to glue on before I'm ready for glass.

IMG_1030.JPG


IMG_1015.JPG


IMG_1011.JPG


I want to add a skeg after the hull is glassed, but I don't know what sort of dimensions it should be. How do I determine how deep it should be, how long, the taper, and where it should be place fore-aft?

Thanks!
Mike

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vupilot
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby vupilot » Fri Jun 27, 2014 8:30 am

The important thing about skegs is the aft end of the skeg should stop well infront of the transom to help from inducing cavitation at the propeller during turns. I think most plans state somewhere between 18-24" from the transom. I think it was written in the instructions.

mdweber
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:19 pm

Almost time for fiberglass! My local woodworking club fortuitously ran out of mahogany Famowood filler, so I had to use Red Oak filler. The color is much darker than okoume, but the filled holes, drilled every 4", gives the boat a bit of character. I think it's a nice touch that my artistically incapable mind would have never thought to include! Making me think I might not put on a rub rail so I can keep these visible.

IMG_1091.JPG

IMG_1101.JPG
The rear port portion of okoume on the bottom was the only section that had color issues. Luckily this will be painted!

IMG_1109.JPG
Puzzle Joint from CLC.


I'm planning to make the skeg 4' long with a taper to a max of 2". I have a few scrap lengths of African mahogany and red oak that I'm planning to use. Any reason to use one species over the other?

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby BarnacleMike » Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:31 pm

Don't use the Red Oak. It has a much lower resistance to rot than mahogany.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

mdweber
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:00 pm

Ladies and Gentlemen, we have boat!

IMG_1242.JPG

IMG_1248.JPG

IMG_1246.JPG


With the boat righted, it feels like there are a million things to do....and I guess there are! I'm all at out sand paper and blades, so I'm going to pick some up tomorrow morning at HD and begin work. I plan to trim down the excess side planking that is extending beyond the sheer, sand it flush to the sheer, and then sand the whole interior in preparation for encapsulation. I'm thinking about getting a router to round out all the square edges. After, I'll hit everything with three coats of West systems and 207.

Is there anything in particular that I need to look out for? Working with a righted boat seems like a whole different ball game.

gdcarpenter
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby gdcarpenter » Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:37 pm

Do not want to spoil that beautiful and well earned smile - - but - -

At least for my ZIP, and others may chime in, the post flip work can actually take longer than the pre flip work.

Whether it's good news or not so good news I don't know, but now you can mostly throw away the 'plans' and built it 'your way' - seems you have already chosen the Utility option.

She's a beauty, congratulations!
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

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mrintense
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mrintense » Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:47 pm

Congratulations on the flip. Whether it takes longer or not, I feel that this part of the build will be the best part. At least for me anyway. I am very anxious to get my boat planked, fiber glassed and flipped.

Your boat looks great. Enjoy the rest of the building process.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Cabron
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Cabron » Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:50 pm

Good work. Looks great. Now you can relax and have some fun.
I think the rest is fairly straightforward. Just take your time and the enjoy
the wonderful creation process.
Cheers.
Josh


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