Squirt in CT

Outboard designs up to 14'

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vupilot
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby vupilot » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:02 pm

Congrats on the milestone, you have been busy!

Sounds like a good plan. Once things are trimmed and sanded it really starts going fast and is definitely the best part of the build. I got to the point where I couldn't make decisions fast enough and I could build faster than I could decide how I wanted to do something and I would lose a week of progress while I researched and brainstormed. Keep up the great work!

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby DrBryanJ » Mon Jul 21, 2014 4:21 am

Looks great and you look very happy (rightfully). Hitting a milestone like that is a big accomplishment. I can't wait to flip my girl.

Bryan
Bryan

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My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Steve S » Mon Jul 21, 2014 5:41 am

Looks great Mike. Congratulations on the flip. Great looking wood. More fun is just around the corner. :D
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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby BarnacleMike » Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:46 am

Congratulations Mike! It looks great! I'm looking forward to seeing how you finish her out.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
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mdweber
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:44 pm

Thanks, guys! It's been almost a week since the flip, and I'm still sanding! I want to get everything encapsulated before building up the deck. I picked up a compact router a HD to round over the battens/keel. It have the boat a more finished look, and will certainly making walking on the floor a bit more comfortable.

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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Sun Aug 03, 2014 8:20 am

As the glue dries on the deck framing, I'm beginning to sort out fuel and electrical systems. I would like to have a 6 gallon tank, and due to size, it will have to be under the bow, which pushes the battery to the stern.

With this configuration, is extra ventilation necessary?

mdweber
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Sat Sep 13, 2014 3:50 pm

Just an update.

With just over a week before my forced completion date, I have been working ferociously (but hopefully not hastily) to finish off my squirt. Over the last week I bought, milled and fit the decking in place over the subdeck. I'm using Sapele as the perimeter and kingplank(?), and phillipine mahogany for the longitudinal slats. The seams will be filled with an epoxy mixture.

I bought the phillipine mahogany as three 4"x4"x8' lengths, and sliced/planed them to 1/4" thicknesses. Each one had a different tint to it, so I alternated wood type as I fit the boards from the inside out. So, going outward from the kingplank, there is type A on either side, then a type B, then a type C...repeat.

Creating the 1/4" seam between the slats and the perimeter board was a bit of a challenge. Initially I placed the phillipine boards where I wanted them in the athwartship orientation, loosened the locating screws on the perimeter board, and slid the slats ends forward and underneath the Sapele. I traced the shape of the perimeter board onto the phillipine mahogany, and then sanded each slat to match the curve of the perimeter board. When I had done this to all 18 boards, I slid them into position and realized that this method created an inconsistent curve. It became clear that the 1/4" gap is not made by the space between the tip of each slat and the perimeter board directly in front of it, but rather between a given point on the perimeter board, and the portion of the slat that is at it's 90 degree. The result was that the inner tips of each slat were under 1/4" from the perimeter, and the outer tips were over 1/4" from the perimeter.

To fix this, I took one of the 1/4" spacers that I had cut from scrap plywood, and made a notch in the end of it. The spacer was 1"x1"x1/4", and the notch was cut 1/8" through one end of the spacer. With the slats in their athwartship position, I slid and secured each one forward so that the
Attachments
notch.jpg

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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Sat Sep 13, 2014 3:58 pm

Just an update.

With just over a week before my forced completion date, I have been working ferociously (but hopefully not hastily) to finish off my squirt. Over the last week I bought, milled and fit the decking in place over the subdeck. I'm using Sapele as the perimeter and kingplank(?), and phillipine mahogany for the longitudinal slats. The seams will be filled with an epoxy mixture.

I bought the phillipine mahogany as three 4"x4"x8' lengths, and sliced/planed them to 1/4" thicknesses. Each one had a different tint to it, so I alternated wood type as I fit the boards from the inside out. So, going outward from the kingplank, there is type A on either side, then a type B, then a type C...repeat.

Creating the 1/4" seam between the slats and the perimeter board was a bit of a challenge. Initially I placed the phillipine boards where I wanted them in the athwartship orientation, loosened the locating screws on the perimeter board, and slid the slats ends forward and underneath the Sapele. I traced the shape of the perimeter board onto the phillipine mahogany, and then sanded each slat to match the curve of the perimeter board. When I had done this to all 18 boards, I slid them into position and realized that this method created an inconsistent curve. It became clear that the 1/4" gap is not made by the space between the tip of each slat and the perimeter board directly in front of it, but rather between a given point on the perimeter board, and the portion of the slat that is at it's 90 degree. The result was that the inner tips of each slat were under 1/4" from the perimeter, and the outer tips were over 1/4" from the perimeter.

To fix this, I took one of the 1/4" spacers that I had cut from scrap plywood, and made a notch in the end of it. The spacer was 1"x1"x1/4", and the notch was cut 1/8" through one end of the spacer. With the slats in their athwartship position, I slid and secured each one forward so that the notch would fit between the tip of the slat and the perimeter board, while the full width portion overlapped onto the slat. Moving the spacer along the perimeter board, I traced the full width portion onto the tips of the slats. Each slat was reshaped on the Ridgid sanding station. Almost miraculously, the gap became consistent along the perimeter.

notch.jpg
notch.jpg (2.35 KiB) Viewed 2473 times

IMG_1348.JPG


And with that, it was time to take everything apart and begin the glue up. After a failed attempt last night, it became obvious that a few screws is not sufficient to hold down the perimeter board during glue up. A dozen bags of sand provided the pressure needed to do the job. Although I think I might have made a terrible decision placing so much weight on the deck, time is of the essence, and if I don't finish this boat over the next week, I'll probably never have enough time to get it done until I retire.

IMG_1353.JPG


I plan on getting the kingplank glued in later tonight, and the phillipine slats in tomorrow. Then I will sand everything smooth, and stain the sapele with red mahogany transtint diluted with denatured alcohol.

I'm still thinking about how to fill the seams. Would West systems epoxy thickened with 406 filler leave a good finish, or so I need to add some of the white stuff that they sell?

Mike

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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Steve S » Sat Sep 13, 2014 5:36 pm

WOW Mike. That's a lot of work in a short time. Looks great.
Steve
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geneanthes
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby geneanthes » Sat Sep 13, 2014 6:57 pm

Well done. Nice work!
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vupilot
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby vupilot » Sun Sep 14, 2014 6:44 am

Awesome! Don't rush it, the finishing is really what pulls all that hard work together.

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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Mon Sep 15, 2014 4:01 pm

Hoping to get the boat in ridable shape for the gathering. Would it be okay to leave the bottom unpainted for the weekend? It have 8 or 9 coats of epoxy on the bottom, and I would like to drive it at the gathering, and then take it back home and finish it off.

Thanks

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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby mdweber » Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:54 pm

I was pretty nervous taking dye to the sapele, but it seems to have worked out well. I applied three coats of Red Mahogany dye using a foam brush. The finish looked a bit splotchy in some areas, but they disappeared after I put down the first coat of epoxy.

IMG_1366.JPG

IMG_1375.JPG


Tomorrow I'll be filling the seams with thickened epoxy.

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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby Steve S » Thu Sep 18, 2014 5:13 am

Looks great, Mike. :D I like the wood grain and how the epoxy really brought it out. Nice work.

Steve
Squirt build

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BayouBengal
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Re: Squirt in CT

Postby BayouBengal » Fri Sep 19, 2014 1:07 pm

Sensational Work! :D


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