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Flying saucer keels ( and a couple of misc. ques. )?

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 11:44 pm
by Flash

It sounds like I'm at about the same point as the one who just asked when to notch. I've been wondering about that because it seems like many of the pictures show un-notched frames mounted on forms.

Regarding the keel - it seems like every measurement for lumber has been for dimension until I looked at the notch diagram for the keel and it is a 4 quarter 1X4. I didn't order any 4 quarter lumber so can this be 3/4 X 3 1/2 ? The plywood lamination on top would make it 4 quarters but I think that it needs to be 5/4 including the plywood? Or should I just shut up and buy a full 1" by full 4" board?

One more thing - after cutting out the gussets, I read that they need to be at least 6" on both sides of the joint. With double gussets screwed, glued and nailed on each corner of the frames, is it really necessary for them to be a foot long? I know, just shut up and cut bigger gussets.


Re: Flying saucer keels ( and a couple of misc. ques. )?

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 6:16 am
by BarnacleMike
Hi Flash,

On cutting the chine notches, etc: I believe the preferred method is to cut the notches once the frames are mounted on the construction form. By clamping the chines & sheers into position, and then carefully cutting the notches into the frames as needed, I believe you'll wind up with fairer lines and better fitting. I did not do it this way on my Utility, but I intend to when the time comes for the Zip.

On the lumber for the keel: I had the same issue with the keel for my Utility. I would recommend simply buying the thicker board while you are able to. I wound up thickening my keel with an additional layer of plywood, because at the time it seemed like too big a deal to go buy more wood. In retrospect, much further down this path, I wish I'd simply gone back and bought the thicker mahogany. All things considered, it would have been a miniscule setback at the most. That being said, however, my plywood-thickened keel does seem to be quite solid. So yes, you can do that also...

Re: Flying saucer keels ( and a couple of misc. ques. )?

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 7:23 am
by Andy Garrett
I don't recall anything in the materials list calling for anything other than a standard nominal finish for any piece. My keel was 1". That is to say that it was about 3/4". Fairing takes it down even more so that the edges are quite thin, especially up front. I have no plywood lamination on mine, but if you do, you are ahead of the curve. I strengthened mine with twin 'T' members from the inside when the hull was flipped--one of many construction methods I borrowed from Mark Shipley whose build most informed my own.

The notch itself is only full depth at the center if I recall--where the frame creates a 'peak'. So, unless I'm all wet, I think you simply decide on how thick your total keel will be with all laminations, etc., then cut the notches with that measurement at the center of the notch. This will allow for fairing later.

It's not a great pic, but you can see how thin the edges of my keel are here.

Here is a shot that shows the 'T' members on my keel and battens:

Re: Flying saucer keels ( and a couple of misc. ques. )?

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 8:52 am
by Flash
Hi Andy & Michael,

Thank you very much for your answers. I know exactly what I need to do and with a great deal of peace of mind.

Take care,