Brendons Zip Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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bjfrater
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby bjfrater » Fri May 08, 2015 2:38 pm

Hey guys,
Im in the process of filling screw holes and rounding off all the edges ready for fibreglass.

Im trying to figure out the best process to do the fiberglassing. My Dad will be visiting next weekend and we have one day to work on the boat so I want to maximise what we can get done.
Here is what I was thinking...

I will have 5 pieces of cloth (two sides, two bottom, one transom) I was going to lap each side over the edges of the next by a couple of inches and feather it down. This way I would get a double covering of cloth over the keel and chines and transom edge etc. The problem i see is that each cloth overlaps every other somewhere around the boat.

so, do I need to wet out a piece and let it setup so I can feather the edges before doing another? This would take a long time waiting between each piece of cloth.
How did others manage this? did you lap the cloth without feathering or did you use butt joins? or did you wait and feather each one?

ps I have added some new photos of my progress on the previous page of this thread.

thanks
Brendon

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Andy Garrett » Fri May 08, 2015 4:45 pm

I seem to recal doing the sides first, letting them cure, feathering, then the bottom sheets, cure, feather again, then the transom and a final feathering.
Then, i laid up several thin strips and lots of epoxy right along the previously radiused transom bottom edge. After it cures, you can use an angle grinder or belt sander to cut that down into a very sharp edge. Repeat as required, and accept no flaws here.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Andy Garrett » Fri May 08, 2015 4:47 pm

If you allow the epoxy to cure and then feather, be mindful of whether or not your brand of epoxy blushes. If it does, you want to time it just right.

There is a sweet spot where the epoxy is hard enough to feather but it still hasn't blushed yet. That's when you want to feather and lay up the next sheet.

At least this was the case with Poxy Shield.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

bjfrater
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby bjfrater » Fri May 08, 2015 8:06 pm

Ok, Thanks Andy

How did you feather along the keel when doing both bottom pieces together?
Im using West System epoxy and have found it to blush somtimes, i think it depends on the humidity. I will keep that sweet spot in mind and try to time it just right.

thanks.

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Andy Garrett » Sat May 09, 2015 8:56 am

I believe I just feathered the high spots after the dual layer was cured.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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specialk
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby specialk » Sat May 09, 2015 11:30 am

Brendon good job.. your build is looking great...keep the picture's coming...
Kelly...1st Boat...Flats Flyer
2nd Boat.....?

Cabron
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Cabron » Sat May 09, 2015 12:08 pm

Go ahead and overlap on the keel. That is what I did. You can use some fairing compound to even things out after.

I overlapped by I think by a couple of inches. The stranded side of the cloth is best for overlaps and leaves a nice edge.
When you cut the cloth things start to get messy. So use that stranded factory edge to your advantage.
I laid the glass down dry. If I was to do it again. I would roll on a coat of epoxy, let it set up to the green stage and then
lay down my glass. I think when the glass is laid down dry it becomes difficult to evenly spread the epoxy over the cloth.
They epoxy over the glass will flow much better onto a surface that has already been epoxy primed.

Make sure you are glassing over 60 degrees and that your epoxy is mixed well. Mix the epoxy in a container and then pour it
in another one, mix again, and then pour into your rolling pan. The key is getting the A and B thoroughly mixed. Keep your
mixing tools in the mix as you are mixing. Avoid inducing are into it.

Your doing a great Job. Fun isn't it.

I`m hooked on it.

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Andy Garrett » Sat May 09, 2015 12:23 pm

I glassed my hull dry. Using the Poxy-Shield and a squeegee was very manageable, but I waited until temp and humidity condition were near ideal in my garage.

Once wetted out, it was easy to tug here or there to get it the way I wanted it, but once it starts to set, that's impossible.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

bjfrater
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby bjfrater » Sat May 09, 2015 2:03 pm

Awesome, thanks for all the advise its much appreciated. Any and all tips and suggestions are helpful at this point. I will lap the bottom and fair it out after. Im still deciding if I will put a base cote of epoxy down first.

bjfrater
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby bjfrater » Thu Nov 12, 2015 1:48 pm

Hi everyone,

I have been away from the forum for a while!
The reason is that I got to the point of fibreglassing with my build just at the start of winter and then didnt get conditions (temperature and humidity) which I was happy to start fibreglassing and epoxying. It has been quite a wet winter here in NZ this year and getting out in the dark and cold wasnt very appealing anyway. On the plus side I got a bit of skiing in this winter! Im now motivated to get back onto the boat again with the weather improving.

I got the bottom fibreglassed, and am preparing to do the sides.
Here are a couple of update photos.

20151102_191325.jpg

20151102_191346.jpg

20151102_191400.jpg

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Roberta
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Roberta » Thu Nov 12, 2015 1:50 pm

Looking good!

Roberta :D :D :D :D :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Cabron
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Cabron » Fri Nov 27, 2015 7:54 am

Looks like your doing a fine job. Keep it up. Looks just like mine did.

Awesome boat Awesome journey.

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Dave Grason
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby Dave Grason » Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:10 pm

I've been using MAS epoxy and I've never had a problem with it blushing. I don't know if I've gotten lucky or it's just a really good epoxy. Either way, I'm wondering if blush matters when you plan to paint anyway. Does anyone know that?
Last edited by Dave Grason on Sat Nov 28, 2015 3:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Isn't it amazing!! The person that never has the fortitude to pursue his own dreams, will be the first to try and discourage you from pursuing yours.

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vupilot
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby vupilot » Sat Nov 28, 2015 11:47 am

MAS is supposed to be non-blushing and in my experience it holds up to the claim. You still want to clean blush off of painted surfaces as well but it is much more forgiving and unlike when finishing bright you probably wont know it over paint if a little is left but you will know for sure on brightwork. I know because I redid my deck after the first year due to two blush patches and the process was the same for the deck as it was for the painted bottom. I now only use MAS for bright finished areas and have had no further issues.

Looking great Brendon!

cusoak
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Re: Brendons Zip Build

Postby cusoak » Thu Dec 03, 2015 6:44 am

Here is a little tip that I saw on youtube and then I tried it and it worked great,
What the guy did in the video was to lay the fiberglass cloth on to the boat, then get where you wanted it and then start smoothing it out on the boat with his hand. When you start to smooth out the cloth work towards the sides of the boat and go around the edge and down the side.
What I did was to do one side at a time. The cloth will stay where you put it, if you have a wrinkle it will smooth out by just pushing it in one direction.
When you get to an edge, start away from the edge and smooth towards the edge and follow the contour of the edge toy the end of the cloth.
Once you get it smoothed out let it set . come back the next day and smooth out again, It will lay out right on the wood with a couple of times of doing this process. What you will find is that the cloth will take on the shape of the bottom , and stay in place
This is a dry process.
What I found is that during the wet out the cloth would not move, it has become set to the contour of the boat.
I did this process 3 times over 3 days, and it worked very well
I used West system epoxy. mixing up small amounts, pouring it on and using a 3" wide plastic card to work it into the glass.
Had no trouble going over corners and getting the cloth wetted out there.
I did not roll any on in the wet out process, in a few hours later when it was still tacky I rolled on a coat and then stopped until the next day.
I put on 3 roller coats,
Jeff


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