Michael's ZIP

Outboard designs up to 14'

Moderator: ttownshaw

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1015
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Feb 04, 2018 1:23 pm

A table saw it is, then. Bought one this morning.

I ripped the board, which was 2" x 8.25" x 10'-ish, with my circular saw. That went pretty smoothly. However, when I measured the piece afterward, I found that the "lumberyard edge" was not straight. So, the keel-to-be is currently about 1/2" wider in the middle than at the ends. I was hoping to cut that edge straight with the new table saw today. However, it took a while to get the thing assembled, and now it's time to shift my focus to other responsibilities.

Perhaps I can get it cut sometime during the week. I'll practice on a couple of cheap boards first, just to get the feel of it. I don't believe I've ever used a table saw before.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

283
Posts: 101
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:14 am
Location: Maine

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby 283 » Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:49 am

If you’ve never used a table saw before the thing to remember is not to watch the board being cut by the blade. But instead focus on making sure you are keeping the board tight against the fence.

If you are watching the wood be cut it is easy to let the board drift away from the fence.

And if it’s a new saw spend some time making sure it tuned as well as you can... nothing worse then a fence that doesn’t lock parallel to the blade.
Mike

User avatar
Jimbob
Posts: 546
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby Jimbob » Mon Feb 05, 2018 2:28 pm

Here's a couple of tips for you:

Invest in a featherboard, they will hold your piece of wood tight against the fence forward of the blade ( I have the magnetic kind, but you can make one and clamp it to the saw table when needed. A splitter helps hold the piece against the fence after the blade.

If you don't have a straight edge on a board, you can "tack" a straight edge to ride against the fence. A piece of plywood or mdf works good. Woodcraft makes special clamps for that purpose. You can also attach the straight edge with double sided carpet tape. I have a jointer but never use it anymore to get a straight edge.

Get a thin kerf rip blade. I have had good luck with Diablo carbide thin kerf blades. You can get them at Home Depot.

And probably the most important tip, is to stand to the side when feeding a board against the fence. It will be easier to keep the board pushed tight against the fence, and keep you safe. There have been many injuries where a piece "kicks back" when ripping, and hits the operator. My friend got a new saw, was hit by a board that kicked back, and ended up going to the emergency room. Guess where he was standing.

Be safe and enjoy your new saw!
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1015
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:10 am

Mike, Jim,

Thank you for the tips! I watched a few YouTube videos about table saw safety before buying one. The clips I saw showing kickback, and how fast and powerfully it happens, convinced me to buy a table saw rather than build one. I really came to appreciate the riving knife! Before that, I had considered building my own with a circular saw... more for the fun of doing so than economy. Not after seeing those videos.

I've made my first rip and re-saw cuts with it, and can appreciate what you're saying about the featherboard and closely watching the fence. So far, I've cut out a couple of floor battens, and have begun re-sawing the big chunk for the keel. My first re-saw on the keel was far from perfect, but after a few passes on the planer/jointer it should be fine. I'm glad I didn't try to cut anything narrower than 3/4". After the saw kerf & what I'll lose from planing, I'll be lucky if I'm left with a 1/2" piece. At least it'll be easier to bend into the stem.

For my next re-saw cut on the keel, I'll probably widen the cut to 7/8".
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

User avatar
Jimbob
Posts: 546
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby Jimbob » Tue Feb 06, 2018 8:22 am

Glad you are enjoying your new saw!
Take a look at some things called "Board Buddies". They are attachments that are attached to your fence. They are good for holding sheets of plywood against the fence when ripping. They are good for holding stock down and against the fence. They only turn in one direction which stops kickbacks.

One of the other things you might consider for your new saw is making a "crosscut sled". Mine has measuring tape attached so I don't have to measure and mark each piece. You can also clamp on a stop block for making exact repetitive cuts.

Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1800
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby hoodman » Tue Feb 06, 2018 5:24 pm

I'm on my second crosscut sled. One day I'll tell you the story of what happened to the first one. They are great especially since the miter guage that comes with most saws are garbage.

TomB
Posts: 282
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby TomB » Wed Feb 07, 2018 7:49 am

All the previous advice was spot on. Also add an assortment of push sticks to keep digits from meeting a spinning blade. It is also a good idea to confirm that the blade is parallel to the miter slot and rip fence. Tom

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 11080
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby Bill Edmundson » Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:20 am

Also, a simple block or carefully cut wood makes a gage to be sure the blade is indeed at 90*.

Here is a picture of kickback! This is a hole in the wall halfway across the basement above a door.

Bill
Attachments
101_3569.JPG
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

User avatar
Jimbob
Posts: 546
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2013 1:07 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby Jimbob » Wed Feb 07, 2018 10:33 am

Mike,
Here is an item that is useful for ripping thin strips. It's dangerous to rip thin strips on the "fence side" of the blade. This jig cuts the thin strip of the outside of the blade. See pic.
Jim
Attachments
thinrip106_big.jpg
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1015
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sat Feb 17, 2018 7:39 pm

No pictures to show at the moment... but currently I've got 3/4 of a laminated keel hidden under 49 clamps in my very dingy, dust-coated basement, waiting on the epoxy to cure.

Leading up to this point...

It took more than "just a few" passes across my planer/jointer to level out my less-than-perfect resaw cut on the keel. By the time I had it flattened out to something usable, it was about 5/8" or just under. That left a "big" chunk still about 1-1/2" thick. I planed it down before resawing it on the table saw. My re-saw job this time around was better, thanks to meticulously watching the board contact the fence. Better, but still less-than-perfect. I planed it down to match the 5/8" piece.

Then I cut 3 feet off the end of it, butted it up against the earlier 9' 6" section, and backed it with the remaining 6' 6" piece. I also made an 8" backing plate out of 1/4" plywood (per Bill's earlier comment). It was all going so smoothly, I decided to go ahead and glue & screw the whole thing.

It's been a long, but productive day... roughly 1 hour per linear foot on a 12' keel :)
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

joshuab
Posts: 509
Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:10 pm
Location: southern oregon coast
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby joshuab » Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:23 pm

Keep at it mike, i remember being exactly where you are not long ago, you will be cruising your zip in no time.
I cut twice and it's still too short :mrgreen:

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1800
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby hoodman » Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:21 am

A lot of the designs call for a keel laminated with plywood on the inside. I'm surprised the zip isn't one of them.

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1015
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:00 pm

hoodman wrote:A lot of the designs call for a keel laminated with plywood on the inside. I'm surprised the zip isn't one of them.


I have wondered about that myself. The Utility uses a plywood-reinforced keel. It's actually thicker than a Zip keel.

I know a lot of people have put reinforcing strips along the Zip keel and battens to stiffen them.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1015
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:03 pm

Okay, here are a few pictures of my laminated keel-in-progress...
Attachments
DSC_1158.jpg
DSC_1162.jpg
DSC_1164.jpg
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1015
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:06 pm

Here are a couple more, from recent work on my dashboard. The helm and bezel I ordered came in, so I went ahead and cut the hole for the helm. I'm currently working on one more cutout — this one for a rocker switch.

Once that's done, I can finish assembling Frame #4. Then ALL the frames will be complete.
Attachments
DSC_1165.jpg
DSC_1166.jpg
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com


Return to “Small outboards”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests