Michael's ZIP

Outboard designs up to 14'

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Oct 23, 2016 3:16 am

It took me a while to find where the 3 batten option is given in the plans, but it IS there. Actually, there is some variance in the plan set regarding the battens:

• All of the drawings show 2 battens per side. The full-size plans show 2" wide battens.

• The written instructions state: Two 1" x 2-1/2" battens are notched into the frames each side of the centerline

• Sheet 3 of 4 of the scaled plans specifies that battens should be 2" wide on low powered hulls and 2-1/2" wide on higher powered hulls.

• The Bill of Materials specifies a total of 4 battens of 2-1/2" width.

• On the full-size plans for Frame #4, there is this notation: If higher power is used the battens can be varied to 1" x 3" — 3 each side of keel — THIS IS OPTIONAL.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Tue Nov 29, 2016 5:56 pm

Progress is slow, but it's moving along. Here's an update with some pics:

When I checked my floor beam for Frame #4 against my construction drawing, it became apparent that it was mis-shaped on one side.

Image

So, I wound up cutting a couple of thin strips of mahogany and laminating it on to the bottom & then sanded it to shape.

Image

Image

Since then, I have dry-fit 3/4 of Frame #4. As with Frame #5-1/2, I'm using lapped, single-gussett joints.

Image

I haven't yet cut the dash board. Right now, I am sanding the encapsulation epoxy on Frame #5-1/2 in order to prep it for a layer of primer.

Has anyone tried coating West System 105 over a sanded layer of System 3 Silvertip?
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Jan 26, 2017 4:07 am

I had entertained the idea of switching to West System 105 epoxy, simply because I can get it locally with "free shipping" to the store. However, when I looked closer into it, I found that the local price was about $10 higher per unit than ordering online. So, with no real cost savings, and no compelling reason to use the 105, I decided to stick with the System Three Silvertip. I've been very pleased with the quality, and at this point I'm pretty familiar with using it.

I've been working on frames 2 and 4. My last hiccup was on frame #4. I'm using a lap joint with a single gusset. I had used a single 2" screw, driven through the full depth of the lap joint. I suppose the threads misaligned during reassembly. In any case, the 2" screw actually pushed one of the frame ribs away from the gusset, rather than pulling the whole joint together.

I thought I had remedied this before the epoxy cured, but I was wrong. The next day, I saw there was a considerable gap. Fortunately, I found that enough pressure from a C-clamp would push the gap closed. So, I filled the gap with epoxy & forced it closed. After the epoxy cured, I drove another screw through the joint. Everything seems to hold together just fine. I'll have to be more careful when I glue & screw the other side.
Attachments
IMG_2596.jpg
Gap between the frame rib and the gusset.
IMG_2598.jpg
A substantial amount of pressure from the C-clamp forced the gap closed. I actually bent the clamp's handle in the process... but it worked.
IMG_2608.jpg
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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hoodman
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby hoodman » Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:43 am

Looks like the epoxy was still soft enough the next day that you could close that gap! Screws will not pull things tight unless the shank of the screw is pulling the layers together. In other words, if you have screw threads bridging the layers they tend not to pull tight. I've also used a non-blush epoxy throughout my entire build so far. I'm thinking of getting a few tubes of Totalboat Thixo for some of the topside framing that will be hidden.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Jun 15, 2017 6:58 pm

Haven't posted an update in a while. With the warmer weather, I've been using the Utility more, and doing less work on the Zip.

Progress on the Zip has also slowed as I plan out a variety of options, from the electrical system, to the length of the boat, to shopping around for a motor. But, I am making some progress. Most recently, I've widened the stem from 1-1/2" to 2". Now it's the same width as my transom knee, and both should be good and solid. I've also been putting a primer coat on the transom knee and frame 5-1/2.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Tue Jun 27, 2017 5:58 am

While I was working on the stem, I kept thinking that something didn't look quite right about the breasthook. So, I put the whole thing in my vice and checked it with a level and an angle finder. Sure enough, the breasthook is way off from being perpendicular to the stem... worse than I'd feared. From one tip to the other, it drops about 5/8".

I'm planning to laminate a couple of 1/4" plywood pieces to the top, and fair it all down. Hopefully, I can get it level or at least close.
Attachments
IMG_3507.jpg
The stem assembly, basically level in my vice
IMG_3509.jpg
The top of the breasthook isn't even close to level
IMG_3510.jpg
The drop from one tip to the other is about 5/8"
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BayouBengal
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BayouBengal » Tue Jun 27, 2017 6:49 am

There's very few errors in wooden boatbuilding that are non-recoverable. To make your work as easy as possible, put a slice of plywood on the side that needs to be built up, then use a trowel to spread an epoxy mix with easily sandable microspheres between each side using the slice as a guide.

PeterG
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby PeterG » Tue Jun 27, 2017 7:25 am

I don't know the Zip, but does your breasthook project forward enough on the stem per the plan? I ask because I have a different setup on my Malahini. The point of the breasthook projects beyond the stem when viewed from the side, so that when fairing is done, the edge of the stem is a continuous line to the upper point of the breasthook... Here are a couple pictures of my stem:
Attachments
20160726_204945.jpg
Other side of stem
20160726_204828.jpg
One side of stem
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Tue Jun 27, 2017 8:31 am

BayouBengal wrote:There's very few errors in wooden boatbuilding that are non-recoverable. To make your work as easy as possible, put a slice of plywood on the side that needs to be built up, then use a trowel to spread an epoxy mix with easily sandable microspheres between each side using the slice as a guide.


I like your idea about the trowel & epoxy.

Pete, yes... the breasthook is as far forward as it should be. I have asked the very same question. Some of Glen's plans, such as the Squirt, have the breasthook projecting forward just like your Malahini. Others, (the Zip, at least), have the breasthook flush with the leading edge.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Jul 02, 2017 5:01 pm

I wound up laminating 3 pieces of 1/4" plywood together... one full-width piece, one 1/2-width piece, and one 1/4-width piece. A little time with a belt sander and finish sander this morning, in-between cups of coffee... and it all faired down relatively easily.

It may not be perfectly level, but the top surface is at least mostly perpendicular to the stem now... and that was the main point. It's clamped in place, with the epoxy curing tonight.
Attachments
IMG_2028_1.jpg
IMG_2029_1.jpg
IMG_2030_1.jpg
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

JimmY
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby JimmY » Mon Jul 03, 2017 5:57 am

Nice fix.

What are you planning on for the chines and sheers?
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:09 am

I'm planning to use mahogany, and I may laminate the chines as well as the sheers.

I used Southern Yellow Pine on the Utility, and honestly I have no complaints about it. The wood has incredible elasticity, and is quite strong (if also rather soft.)
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby Bill Edmundson » Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:22 am

Michael

I think you can steam SYP and tie it in a knot! :lol:

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

JimmY
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby JimmY » Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:22 am

I definitely recommend laminating them. After seeing the problems with steaming, soaking, and bending a solid piece, laminating was pretty easy on my build. Also, use bar clamps on the chine between the breasthook and the first frame to twist it, this will save some time fairing. A lot of guys have to scab on extra wood in this area to build it up before they can shave it down.

Looking good.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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vupilot
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby vupilot » Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:38 am

yep, I would also laminate both.


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