Flying Saucer Build Update

Outboard designs up to 14'

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rari
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Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:56 am
Location: Charleston, SC

Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Fri Aug 14, 2015 9:11 am

Okay guys, I've bought the book and now bought the 3/4" marine ply. I spent a few hours yesterday tracing out the patterns on the wood and cut out the pieces for the transom, transom knee, stem and breasthook. Going to spend the weekend trimming the edges and sanding! You can find my progress on my blog. I'm glad that I finally started. After these parts, I have to save money for the Sapele lumber for the frames, found some from the local lumber place $7 bdft.

https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

Cabron
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby Cabron » Sat Aug 15, 2015 10:19 am

Hi there.

Congrats on the start of your build.

Your using the 3/4 inch ply for what exactly? Is the boat not skinned in 1/4 inch ply.

3/4 is a little thick.

Cheers

Josh

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specialk
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby specialk » Sat Aug 15, 2015 11:46 am

Rari ... way to go... you have a great start... keep the pictures coming
Kelly...1st Boat...Flats Flyer
2nd Boat.....?

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby Andy Garrett » Sat Aug 15, 2015 12:21 pm

Well done!
Be diligent. Cut no corners. A proper boat you shall have!
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

rari
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Location: Charleston, SC

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Sat Aug 15, 2015 4:36 pm

Cabron wrote:Hi there.

Congrats on the start of your build.

Your using the 3/4 inch ply for what exactly? Is the boat not skinned in 1/4 inch ply.

3/4 is a little thick.

Cheers

Josh


Transom, Transom Knee, Stem and Breasthook. I'm using 1/4" Okoume Ply for the hull.


Thanks fellas! I sanded more parts today. It's starting to look good! I had a fun time.
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

rari
Posts: 25
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:56 am
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Sun Aug 16, 2015 11:22 am

Update!

Sanded the transom and did a mock up from the transom to breasthook in the yard to see how it looks!

Check it out on my blog, the link is in my signature block!

Rari
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

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Gayle Brantuk
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby Gayle Brantuk » Mon Aug 17, 2015 10:29 am

Very nice, Rari--thank you for your updates. I shared your blog on the Glen-L Facebook page.
Gayle Brantuk
Vice President
Glen-L Marine
Visit our Blog & Create Your Own!

rari
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Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:56 am
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Mon Aug 17, 2015 10:44 am

Thanks Gayle!

Boat motor question. I know the Flying Saucer suggests a 25hp motor, I found a 1987 Johnson 28. Is this okay?
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

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Gayle Brantuk
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby Gayle Brantuk » Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:21 am

Yes, 28hp is fine...
Gayle Brantuk
Vice President
Glen-L Marine
Visit our Blog & Create Your Own!

rari
Posts: 25
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:56 am
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Fri Sep 25, 2015 11:53 am

Update Time!

Purchased one plank of Sapele lumber, 1"x7.5"x14'. Started out by trimming out the pieces for the transom frame. There is still some work on sanding down the frames. I noticed from what I've sanded already that the frames laid out are much larger than the transom plywood. I assume that I will just have to continue sanding the frames until the edges are flushed to the transom itself. Here comes another round of questions.

1. Epoxy Resin, I found this on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/EPOXY-CRYSTAL-Gal ... ewpoints=0) Can I use this to glue the parts together?

This question would segway into my next question, when putting together the transom frame to the transom board.

2. Can I just glue them right on the board, then screw them down? After it cures, can I finish sanding the edges so the board is flush with the frames?


Image

Also, one thing I've noticed. The transom frames are 1 inch thick, while the transom and the transom board for the motor is 3/4 inch. I assume the transom knee should fit flush to the transom w/ frames when everything is set.

3. Should I sand the frames to 3/4" or fill the gap?? I'm not sure what to do. I can take a closer picture of the transom knee laid out on the transom.

4. What is the best way to cut out the slots for the battens?

Please let me know if I need to clarify anything.

Here is a link to my blog post.
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/2015/09/24/sapele-lumber-and-transom-frames/
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

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BayouBengal
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby BayouBengal » Sat Sep 26, 2015 2:06 am

Hi Rari, Here's my suggestions to your questions, although not in the order that you asked them, but instead, in the order I'd perform them.

1) Plane down your Sapele to 3/4"
2) Using a couple scrap screws in your shop, temporarily screw the Sapele boards on to the transom plywood as you have them placed in the picture. Don't use the Silicone Bronze screws for this step because they are soft and expensive and you may not be able to reuse them. If you have silicone ring shaft nails for the fasteners, don't use them for this step because it will be very difficult to remove them.
3) Use a flush cut router bit to trim the edges of the Sapele flush with the plywood. Sanding will take too long and you'd probably sand into your plywood in places, thus somewhat distorting the shape of your transom. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM5trU1dEYg
4) Mark on your plywood the placement of the boards so that you'll know where you'll need to spread your epoxy later.
5) Drill holes through both the Sapele and plywood where your permanent silicone bronze fasteners will go.
6) Remove your Sapele boards and rough cut the notches for the battens on your Sapele using a jig saw or band saw. Then use a wood file to angle the notch to the approximate angle that the transom is set at (approximately 14 degrees). Just do the best you can on this; but, It doesn't have to be exact as later on when you go to glue the battens in place you can use a thickened epoxy mix if needed to fill any gap.
7) Spread your epoxy on the plywood in accordance with the lines you drew in step 4. Also spread the epoxy on the mating surface of the Sapele. DO NOT use the epoxy in the link you provided. That is a special epoxy for creating a thick clear glass like covering on a table top, it has no place in boatbuilding. Use an epoxy specifically formulated for adhesion such as Glen-L Poxy Grip or SystemThree GelMagic (what I use). There are many other adhesive epoxies you could also choose, and less expensive ones if you wish, but definitely don't use what you linked to.
8 Permanently fasten the Sapele to the plywood with the silicone bronze fasteners.
9) Once the epoxy sets, putty any holes from temporary screws with a thickened epoxy paste.

And by the way, you have a very nice looking blog. Keep us posted on your progress. Take Care, Jeff

rari
Posts: 25
Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:56 am
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Sat Sep 26, 2015 3:43 am

BayouBengal wrote:Hi Rari, Here's my suggestions to your questions, although not in the order that you asked them, but instead, in the order I'd perform them.

1) Plane down your Sapele to 3/4"
2) Using a couple scrap screws in your shop, temporarily screw the Sapele boards on to the transom plywood as you have them placed in the picture. Don't use the Silicone Bronze screws for this step because they are soft and expensive and you may not be able to reuse them. If you have silicone ring shaft nails for the fasteners, don't use them for this step because it will be very difficult to remove them.
3) Use a flush cut router bit to trim the edges of the Sapele flush with the plywood. Sanding will take too long and you'd probably sand into your plywood in places, thus somewhat distorting the shape of your transom. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM5trU1dEYg
4) Mark on your plywood the placement of the boards so that you'll know where you'll need to spread your epoxy later.
5) Drill holes through both the Sapele and plywood where your permanent silicone bronze fasteners will go.
6) Remove your Sapele boards and rough cut the notches for the battens on your Sapele using a jig saw or band saw. Then use a wood file to angle the notch to the approximate angle that the transom is set at (approximately 14 degrees). Just do the best you can on this; but, It doesn't have to be exact as later on when you go to glue the battens in place you can use a thickened epoxy mix if needed to fill any gap.
7) Spread your epoxy on the plywood in accordance with the lines you drew in step 4. Also spread the epoxy on the mating surface of the Sapele. DO NOT use the epoxy in the link you provided. That is a special epoxy for creating a thick clear glass like covering on a table top, it has no place in boatbuilding. Use an epoxy specifically formulated for adhesion such as Glen-L Poxy Grip or SystemThree GelMagic (what I use). There are many other adhesive epoxies you could also choose, and less expensive ones if you wish, but definitely don't use what you linked to.
8 Permanently fasten the Sapele to the plywood with the silicone bronze fasteners.
9) Once the epoxy sets, putty any holes from temporary screws with a thickened epoxy paste.

And by the way, you have a very nice looking blog. Keep us posted on your progress. Take Care, Jeff


Jeff, what else can I say. Your reply was amazing and I understood every bit of it. Thank you and thanks for the comment on the blog! :D

Do I have to plane sapale frames 2, 4 and 5 1/2 or can I leave those 1"?
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

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BayouBengal
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby BayouBengal » Sat Sep 26, 2015 5:56 am

You can leave them thick but they need to be sanded smooth now because it will be difficult to sand them once they're installed (too much stuff in the way). To me, it's just much easier to run them through a planer if you have one or have access to one. Also, most places where you buy lumber will plane the boards for you for a slight extra charge.

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vupilot
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby vupilot » Sat Sep 26, 2015 6:24 am

Yes, Don't forget to cut out those batten notches and the chine notch before gluing. I forgot to cut the chine notches and it was a pain to do with it glued to the transom board.

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hoodman
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby hoodman » Sat Sep 26, 2015 1:47 pm

My lumber is slightly thicker at 13/16 than 3/4 so I had the same issue. I ended up notching the knee to fit around the thick frame so everything would sit flush. So that's another option for you if you don't have access to a thickness planer.


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