Flying Saucer Build Update

Outboard designs up to 14'

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hoodman
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Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby hoodman » Sat Sep 26, 2015 1:49 pm

Also, I didn't cut the correct angle in my batten notches so I am dealing with that now. Lots of chiseling...

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby Andy Garrett » Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:28 am

Several options here...

I'm not sure what you gain by thinning the wood down to 3/4. That would give you a transom of minimum acceptable thickness--1.5" (like mine).

You could shim the knee with 1/4 ply,
...notch the knee as Hoodman did,
or rout out 1/4" just where the knee goes.

No real wrong answer here as long as your intended motor doesn't tip the scales at the high end of what you transom can hold; in which case, keep it thicker. Planing just seems like the most work and the most wasted mahogany. :?
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

rari
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Location: Charleston, SC

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Mon Sep 28, 2015 7:50 am

Andy Garrett wrote:Several options here...

I'm not sure what you gain by thinning the wood down to 3/4. That would give you a transom of minimum acceptable thickness--1.5" (like mine).

You could shim the knee with 1/4 ply,
...notch the knee as Hoodman did,
or rout out 1/4" just where the knee goes.

No real wrong answer here as long as your intended motor doesn't tip the scales at the high end of what you transom can hold; in which case, keep it thicker. Planing just seems like the most work and the most wasted mahogany. :?


Image

Interesting information! The only mismatch is the plywood board (transom motor support board) that is in the center of the transom that doesn't flush with the rest of the frames. Rather than finding a 1/4 ply to shim, could I just cut out a 1" board from the Sapale scraps with the same dimension?
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

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Roberta
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby Roberta » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:23 am

You could also notch the knee to fit the jog. I did that on my Zip.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

rari
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Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:56 am
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby rari » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:51 am

Roberta wrote:You could also notch the knee to fit the jog. I did that on my Zip.

Roberta


After giving some thought, I think I will take that option.

The only problem I had was not truly comprehending the options I have. I figured these small mods would somehow change the integrity of the design. It doesn't appear to be the case. I'm truly learning a lot from building this boat!

Thanks all!

Rari
Rari
Charleston SC
Newbie Boatbuilding a Flying Saucer
https://rarisboat.wordpress.com/

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hoodman
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby hoodman » Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:14 am

As long as its glued solidly and using the correct fasteners you are good with any of the options.

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Andy Garrett
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Re: Flying Saucer Build Update

Postby Andy Garrett » Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:05 am

I think you've made the right choice.

A solid wood motorboard would not have the strength of the 3/4 marine ply.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...


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