FINISH

Outboard designs up to 14'

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greg mc
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Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:46 am
Location: Earlham, IA.

FINISH

Postby greg mc » Tue Apr 19, 2016 1:23 pm

What is the best, finish for your top coat been told auto clear coat but I don't think that sound good?

gdcarpenter
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina

Re: FINISH

Postby gdcarpenter » Tue Apr 19, 2016 2:22 pm

There is no one best finish. Some swear by automotive top coat, some swear by marine varnish. I do not know the UV inhibitor properties or 'flexibility' of auto clear coats so I used marine varnish.
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

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Andy Garrett
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Location: Nampa, Idaho

Re: FINISH

Postby Andy Garrett » Tue Apr 19, 2016 3:17 pm

Quality automotive finishes are very UV resistant as they must be to survive constant exposure to the sun.

Cars and boats both flex under movement, and both must survive being wet.
It could be argued that automotive finishes have an edge because they are more prone to be exposed to freezing conditions (unless you go pleasure boating in that stuff), road salts, oils, and abrasive debris, etc.

The difference is the wood. A metal or fiberglass boat should be just fine with auto paint as cars are also made of these materials. A wooden boat, in the classic sense, will swell and shrink as if absorbs water and dries out. Automotive paint would likely flake off with this kind of substrate action. HOWEVER, a fully encapsulated boat especially one reinforced by fiberglass fabric should be dimensionally stable--thus, it is perfectly suitable for a quality automotive paint system.

That's just my two bits.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

greg mc
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Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:46 am
Location: Earlham, IA.

Re: FINISH

Postby greg mc » Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:49 pm

Well I have expoxed the boat and that make since I am and old car person so would you put flex additive to the mix the did that for front and rear bumper of car?

greg mc
Posts: 42
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:46 am
Location: Earlham, IA.

Re: FINISH

Postby greg mc » Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:53 pm

and plus if you got a chip would the water get in and start making trouble? I live in Iowa and ore water are not that debris free!

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: FINISH

Postby Bill Edmundson » Tue Apr 19, 2016 5:44 pm

I like Interlux Perfection PU 2-Part.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Moeregaard
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Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:31 pm
Location: Thousand Oaks, California

Re: FINISH

Postby Moeregaard » Thu Apr 21, 2016 5:39 am

We used PPG Concept two-part PU on our Zip, and after eight years have had no problems. The boat has a few dings, mostly dock rash, but overall it has held up really well. The downside to many automotive finishes is that most are made from some pretty nasty stuff that can cause some real health problems for the user. We're currently building two Can-Yaks and will be using System Three for the top coat.

-Mark Shipley
A boat is just a wooden box with no right angles.

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Andy Garrett
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Location: Nampa, Idaho

Re: FINISH

Postby Andy Garrett » Sun Apr 24, 2016 1:24 pm

I don't know what you're building and in the interest of full disclosure, I rolled on Supermarine Ironsides for my Zip.

That said, I have experience with HVLP and House of Kolor products which I've used on several mororcycles (starting another next week).
The higher end of the quality spectrum in automotive paints would have my full confidence. The lower end, not so much.

If a primer and paint are recommended for use together, prep is exactly as instructed, and temps were all good during application, a chip is no big deal. Touch it up and soldier on. If it goes al the way through everything down to the wood, a spot of epoxy first might be in order.

As for flex additives. I wouldn't bother.
One of the things I noticed--in fact, it AMAZED me--was that once the hull was turned over and I jerked it up on the trailer and started walking around in it, was just how rigid it actually was. Even without any interior work it never even creaked or squeaked. I was stunned at how strong and resistant to flex it was.
My boat, my woods, my methods. Your results may vary.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

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Bill Edmundson
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Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Re: FINISH

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sun Apr 24, 2016 2:07 pm

Mark

Andy has made a comment, that I am in total agreement with. He didn't want to build a factory boat. We want a unique boat that may look old. But! It is our boat and we built it!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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kens
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Location: Coastal Georgia

Re: FINISH

Postby kens » Sun Apr 24, 2016 4:43 pm

Which method are you most comfortable with? Roll & tip, or, spraying.??
I think your preferred application method is the determining factor.
Roll & tip boat paints,
Spray auto paints.
Your pick
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:


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