Ohio squirt build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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vupilot
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby vupilot » Fri Jul 01, 2016 10:10 am

For the boat frames nothing changes.

For the building form however you will need to add a foot to accomadate the increased spacing between the frames. Your keel will then also need to be a foot longer.

Your chine and sheer are often already given with some extra so they may be OK. At that point you can just measure and see what you need.

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Fri Jul 01, 2016 10:21 am

Good points, Chris

Also, the battens will need to be a little longer, but once again I don't expect this to really impact your lumber order.

Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Mon Jul 04, 2016 9:05 pm

Thank you for the ideas. I got out to tbe shop today for a few hours and got some frames cut out

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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Mon Jul 04, 2016 9:12 pm

Here we go. Not good at pics but im working on it
Attachments
20160704_105601.jpg
Ready to cut

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:32 am

All projects start somewhere. Looks like you're off!

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BarnacleMike » Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:41 am

Congratulations on the start!
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:41 am

More pics to come later this eve.

Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Tue Jul 05, 2016 1:42 pm

Hey everyone. Here is a question. In the photo below , im cutting out the frame for the transom. The pencil in the picture is pointing to the question i have. Is that cut out of the frame? I see it is a 12 degree angle at the bottom of it . Or is that just showing where something butts up to it once its built??? Lost on that one. I have the rest of the frames cut out, have to glue and put them together later this eve.
Any help would be apreciated.
Thanks
Steve
Attachments
20160705_163727.jpg

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chugalug
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby chugalug » Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:49 pm

:D Since your transom is tilted back 12 degrees,I think those are the notches for the battons.holes are angled back as well.don't forget when putting on build form ,that the transom is tilted out 12 degrees with bottom out (not in)if building upside down.I used this to cut mine.Cheapie one from hardware store
IMG_0766[1].JPG
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:08 pm

For now, cut the plywood and frames for the transom and glue it together just as shown by the solid lines on the drawing. This will create a transom with a 90 degree or square edge. Your building form will be set to mount the transom to it at a 12 degree pitch from plumb (vertical). Your battens and keel will be running level and perpendicular to the transom, however, the transom is mounted at 12 degrees creating a non flush edge. Once the battens and keel or in place, you'll plane off the aft edge of the transom to create a flush or flat union between the battens running level and the transom mounted at 12 degrees from vertical. The amount you plane will be approximately where the dashed line is, but don't use the dashed line, just wait and plane it flat once it's all mounted and glued in place.

Additionally, you could cut the notches now in the transom frames (the pylwood is not notched) cutting them square, but this will leave a 12 degree gap between the notch and battens. If you wait until after gluing together the transom you can forego having this gap, but you'll need to be handy with some tools to cut the gap in the frames and not the plywood (it shouldn't be too hard, but it's advanced). I instead negated the gap by simply angling the back edge of my battens and keel 12 degrees.

If all this is confusing, just cut and glue the transom and transom frames together as shown cutting the notches now, you'll figure out the rest (and this post will make more sense) once you put everything up on the building form and see how it needs to go together.
Last edited by BayouBengal on Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:16 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:11 pm

Yes, the tool referenced by chugalug will allow you to cut the notches later without too much difficulty if you decide to go that route rather than just cut the back edges of the battens and keel as I did.

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chugalug
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby chugalug » Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:20 pm

:D Tool works really good for glue drips and for other things later too :D
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:59 pm

Definitely, you can get one of these tools for less than $20 at harbor freight and you'll definitely get your money's worth for that price. There will be times when a cut will be desired and this is the only tool that will work.

Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Tue Jul 05, 2016 4:45 pm

Thanks Bayou. And everyone else . I follow what you are saying. Makes perfect sence now. You folks are a great help i truly appreciate it.
I have one of those tools, they are extremely handy for trimming inTight spots.
Thanks again , pics coming soon.

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vupilot
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby vupilot » Tue Jul 05, 2016 9:02 pm

Looks like just a insert of a side view of what the frame would look like with the plywood transom attached. Showing that the front edge of that frame is full length/height of the plans solid line and the rear edge gets angled later to be even with the dashed line giving 12 degrees.
For now just mark and cut using only the solid lines like you have with the rest of the frames.


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