Ohio squirt build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Wed Jul 06, 2016 12:33 pm

Maybe tbis is a dumb question but....the plan calls for the transom to be made with 1/2 inch plywood. Would it be okay to use 3/4" instead. I allready have the 3/4 so why not use it?

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Bill Edmundson » Wed Jul 06, 2016 12:49 pm

F100

Use it.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BarnacleMike » Wed Jul 06, 2016 6:23 pm

Second that. DEFINITELY use the 3/4".
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:25 pm

Okay i cut the transom out with 3/4" plywood. I have all the frames done. Here is my next question. Since the plan shows half frames. Do i put them together now or do i wait to put the 2 halves together for frame 1 and frame 2?
The teason i ask is if you look at the pic, my pencil is pointing out on grsme 2 drawing that the stem goes between the frames . Am i reading that correctly? Now, frame 1 looks like i could put it together . But im not sure if i should. Im afraid ill mess it up if i do. What should i do?
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Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:32 pm

My progress so far.still need to add gusset plates i biscuit joined the frames and clamped them . They are dry. Ill glue on the gusset played and run screws onto them. The stem is glued and screwed, breasthook is glued and screwed, transom is cut out and the framework for it.
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Fred Østli
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fred Østli » Thu Jul 07, 2016 12:36 am

Yor workshop is way too clean!!! :D >Othervise looking good!

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Jul 07, 2016 4:31 am

Looking at your photos, it looks like your floor member for frame #1 is in two parts. That, as well as the deck beam for frame #2 should be cut as single, solid pieces. The reason that the plans only show half-frames is simply economy of space.... so that the plans can be full-size but still fit on a reasonably-sized sheet of paper.

With the Squirt, the floor members of frame #2 are a different story. These are indeed two separate pieces, and they do not butt against each other. There is a 1-1/2" gap between them. They are joined on the aft side by a 3/4" plywood floor gusset. (Frame #5-1/2 on the Zip is similar).

The reason for the gap is this: The back of the stem fits into this gap, and butts up against the 3/4" floor gusset. It is very important that you get the shape of the floor gusset cut accurately, for the sake of symmetry of the whole frame.

I would personally recommend making a new, solid, floor member for frame #1.

If you choose to use the 2 halves, I would at least put gussets on both the front and back of the centerline joint.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Thu Jul 07, 2016 8:07 am

Don't sweat this stuff, most of the things you're wondering about will become clear once you set up the building form, begin to attach the pieces, and physically see how they are held together.

Glue the frame together and you'll later mount it to the building form by screwing it to the form (and it will stay screwed to the form until you turn the boat over). Of course, you'll clamp it in place and make sure it's centered, beforehand. The stem will fit in between the notch in the frame. You'll put a couple screws through the frame and into the stem along with a liberal amount of epoxy. Don't worry that screws into the edge grain of plywood (the stem) is not a solid way of connecting, it's really just temporary until you add the keel and bolt it through the stem along with epoxy all along the joinery. Attached are pictures. Have fun!

Stem Frame One Union 01.jpg

Stem Frame One Union 02.jpg

Stem Frame One Union 03.jpg

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Thu Jul 07, 2016 8:16 am

I don't remember if this picture was part of the plans, or just on the Glen-L site, but this shows how everything will mount on the building form.

http://www.glen-l.com/designs/outboard/squirt-notes.html

Fordf100
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Thu Jul 07, 2016 1:19 pm

Thats what i thought ill get the one frame together and start on building the frame or form to put the frames on. You guys are a great help. Hopefully one day i can help someone on here.
Thanks again :D

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Jul 07, 2016 1:27 pm

Fordf100 wrote:Hopefully one day i can help someone on here.
Thanks again :D


You will!
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Fordf100
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:54 am

Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Fri Jul 08, 2016 7:18 am

Did someone say my shop was clean?

Fordf100
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Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:54 am

Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Fri Jul 08, 2016 7:21 am

Nice and clean.
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Need to dust

Fordf100
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Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:54 am

Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby Fordf100 » Fri Jul 08, 2016 9:26 pm

Ok everyone. All the frames are good to go the transom is finished, breasthook done, stem done, transome knee ready to go. Time to build the form to hang the frames and transom on. Im totally lost. I have the drawing but it does not say how wide from side to side it should be. I have heit and length but not width. Also i am 6'3" tall and would like to build the form a bit taller so im not crawling around on my knees. Ive looked on the other squirt post
But cant find a good form pic. Any advice would be apreciated. Pics are great too. Also , while im asking,, should i cut notches out for the frames to sit down into them? And... what about the transom??? How does it mount to the frame???? I am honestly lost on this one folks. Help :?

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BayouBengal
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Re: Ohio squirt build

Postby BayouBengal » Sat Jul 09, 2016 6:25 am

Here's some pictures of mine, it ain't pretty because I made it out of recycled scrap lumber. But it doesn't have to be pretty, what it needs to be is strong, rigid, square, and level. I built mine about 30 to 36 inches tall and it worked out pretty well. Keep in mind you'll need to be working on top of the boat and sometimes using leverage, so you don't want it too tall. The instruction sheet for the spacing says 18 to 24 inches, split the difference and go 21. The frame 2 and the transom will be screw directly on the front and back of the form respectively, so no notching necessary. The instructions say to use blocking to secure frame 1, don't notch, it will just complicate the math adjusting for that depth. Just block it to make sure that frame 1 doesn't move as you begin installing the shear and chine.

You'll have to increase the height of the breasthook block by the same amount you're increasing the height of everything else. Because I built my form higher than as shown in the instructions, I didn't link my breasthook block together with the rest of the form, I just anchored my form in place and anchored the breasthook block in place at the appropriate distance. You can see my breasthook block in the previous framing pictures I posted.

On my form, you'll notice that I built the aft end at an angle (12 degrees) for the transom to mount to. You can do it this way, or just append a couple of 2x4's at the 12 degree angle.

Now get out there and build that form.
Building Form 03.JPG
Building Form 01.JPG
Building Form 02.jpg


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