Outfitting a Squirt?

Outboard designs up to 14'

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JimmY
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby JimmY » Wed Aug 17, 2016 6:45 pm

Hi Squirt Builders,

I'm in the planning stages of a Squirt build and I'm getting ready to order epoxy and supplies. While I'm putting in an order, it makes sense to also order all the bits and pieces to complete the boat. How are you outfitting your squirt? Some of the things I'm considering are:

    1.) Drain plugs, type and how many?
    2.) Motor well? Is it worth adding one? drains?
    3.) Bilge pump, do you need one?
    4.) Steering system, how long do the cables need to be?
    5.) Throttle Control, how long do the cables need to be?
    6.) Cleats and other hardware?
    7.) Rub rail?
    8.) What else?

Please chime in with what you used and where you got it. I know Glen L carries a lot of this, and I plan to support them, but there are few things they don't carry and I don't mind cleaning up used equipment.

Thanks,

Jim
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

BillW
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:03 am
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby BillW » Wed Aug 17, 2016 9:10 pm

Some of your listed items are personal preference, like deck hardware and rubrail.

I feel that a drain plug on a wood boat is a place for rot to begin. It definitely was in the old days, but most people
today would tell you that if carefully sealed with epoxy, then no problem. But, I don't have one.

My Squirt has a motor well with drain holes each side of the knee. They differ from drain plugs because they are
hardly ever in the water. I added the well because I knew the motor would be heavy, and there was the possibility
the following wave might wash over the transom as the boat slows below planing speed. But that does not happen.

I just carry a hand held bilge pump.

Steering cable. I wrote an article about installation of the Teleflex (now known as Seastar) steering system
when I was building a Squirt. The article can be seen in the Glen-L webletter 65.

Control cables. Mine are quite long, to make a large loop under the rear deck. 12 feet, I think. A little too much.
My Squirt was stretched 15 inches.

Some of these issues sort of depend upon your motor. And it is impossible to foresee everything to order.
Best Wishes, Bill

TAB
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2016 3:22 pm
Location: OR

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby TAB » Wed Aug 17, 2016 11:20 pm

i can't speak tot he squirt, but every boat needs at least 2 bilge pumps. one hand held and one electric. I personally like rule pumps, they are very simple, last forever easy to get and the best part, you can pick them up for cheap.

more then once in my life the difference between swimming and driving back to the trailer has been a bilge pump.

Hercdrvr
Posts: 345
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby Hercdrvr » Thu Aug 18, 2016 10:56 am

Here's my take from my 2 year old Squirt:

1. Drain plugs: Yes, one on each side of the knee. The Squirt is a fun but wet boat. I also use the drains to clean the boat out, tip the trailer up and hose her out.

2. Motor well: Yes, it adds lots of stability to transom and keeps water out when you yank the throttle to idle or when reversing. Notice in the pic I attached how little free board there is at back of boat with my Mom and me (340 lbs) total, most of that weight is me

3. Bilge pump: Optional, I installed one later, it's mostly for peace of mind if I ever poked the bow into a wave and took on a gulp of water.

4. Steering Cable: it depends on how long you build your Squirt and where you mount the dash. Like most, I looped my 13ft cable under the dash.

5. Throttle/Shifter cable: mine are 9ft

6. Cleats and Hardware: your choice, I have 4 cleats, 2 handles on the back and a bow eye. No windshield . Use a portable can horn to be legal

7. Rub rail: 1/2 stainless steel, lots of builders use automotive adhesive trim.

I would absolutely not order all your steering, control cables and hardware now. You will have a much better picture of what you need when you get to that stage of the build. If your build space is anything like mine, that stuff will only be in the way and collecting huge amounts of dust.
Have fun, the building is more fun than the boating

Matt
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JimmY
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby JimmY » Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:33 am

Thanks for all the good information.

I had read here that a few people had problems installing drain plugs (no room to get the drill in), so I was thinking to plan these out ahead of time where I can get the transom under my drill press or at least flat on my workbench.

Bill, I checked out your article on the flex cable, and that really clears things up.

I'm currently looking for vintage throttle/shift controls so knowing the cable length helps out when I'm trolling on craigslist and ebay.

Later,

Jim
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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BayouBengal
Posts: 914
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 7:29 am
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby BayouBengal » Sun Aug 21, 2016 5:29 am

Jimmy, this is in response to you PM regarding raising transom height for your motor.

LaunchDay 07.jpg
Steering Channel Block 01.jpg
LaunchDay 04.jpg

BillW
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:03 am
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby BillW » Sun Aug 21, 2016 1:59 pm

Here are a couple more things to consider about the Squirt transom. This shot is of our Squirt showing the
motor blocked up, the motor mount bolts, and the motor well drain holes, one each side.

1. If doing it again, I would build the transom structurally higher, between the coamings, to 16.5 inches high.
If you don't like that later, you can plane some off. Although the end result is desirable to have a thin shim for
fine tuning the motor height.

This particular motor would like to be higher, for better performance, but it has run out of clamp screw area.

Although my transom was not made higher, I did make the top transom frame member one piece from side to side.

2. Motor mount bolts. Every outboard capable of some speed should be bolted, at the bottom of the clamp brackets.
When shimmed up a bit, it is absolutely necessary to be bolted on.

3. If adding a motor well, plan the floor of it to be above or below the bolts, not the same height as the bolts.
I nearly blew it in that regard.

I would definitely suggest that you build the longer version of the Squirt.

Bill
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JimmY
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby JimmY » Mon Aug 22, 2016 4:20 pm

Hi Guys,

Great information here. I've been emailing Art A. as well and I've got some thinking to do on the transom height. I do like Bill's idea of making the top transom frame one piece to further stiffen the transom. Did you just add some blocking to support the carlings, or I guess they could be mortised ?

I am stretching the Squirt, and I've done a mockup to make sure I can get it out of the basement. 11' will be pretty tight, so I may play it safe at 10' 10".

While I got your attention, is there any reason the deck beam on frame #2 is lapped and bolted? Could this be build like the rest of the frames with gussets?

Thanks again!
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

BillW
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:03 am
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby BillW » Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:30 am

The transom: I made it from 3/4 ply, not the optional 1/2 ply. I made the top frame member one piece from side to side,
and I made that piece from white oak, even though nothing else on the boat is. Attach the carlins with substantial corner blocks.

The carlins obviously add a lot of strength to the transom, but even so, I beefed up the top frame piece.

The frame 2 with bolted deck beam: I also wondered why it's like that. Possibly just to make it easier to build with fewer
parts. That joint probably doesn't need to be as strong as where the chine attaches, so no gussets.

Speaking of the chine, you may encounter a situation when fitting the chine, where it does not want to assume enough curve,
especially approaching the stem. It wants to be flatter than it should between the stem and foreword frame. The shear does not do
this because of the breast hook. So, I made a breast hook for the chine. I took the angles from the drawing, and made a couple of
parts before it was correct. It helped a lot. However, in my case this was sort of necessary because I stretched all 3 frame bays
by 5 inches each. Meaning I stretched the stem 5 inches too.

Well, I am getting a little carried away here; I better stop.
Bill

JimmY
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby JimmY » Tue Aug 23, 2016 3:40 pm

Hi Bill,

More great information.

Making the top frame member of the transom one piece makes perfect sense. Otherwise you will have a stress riser where the frame members end and at the edges of the motor board.

On frame #2, my main concern would be any stress on the joint from someone sitting/standing on the deck. I would think gussets would be fine here. I was just looking at bronze carriage bolts at $5/piece and thinking I already will have nails and gussets. I just don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish.

I keep in mind your "chine hook" when I get to that stage.

Thanks,
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

Hercdrvr
Posts: 345
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Outfitting a Squirt?

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Aug 24, 2016 2:33 am

I too raised my motor to get cavitation plate in line with the bottom of the transom. My short shaft 20hp is 2" too long for the Squirts 15" transom.
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