Michigan Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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DSR
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Location: Allegan, Michigan

Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by DSR » Fri Oct 28, 2016 12:18 pm

Hi Jim,

not sure if you will have this on your Squirt but the build plans on my TNT actually mention fairing (beveling) the keel area on frame 3 where it attaches (this is the frame that backs the stem on the TNT) to account for the curve the keel takes on fitting into the stem notch. I assume this is to straighten the keel out as it runs aft from frame 3 when installed. I hope that helps

Dave
DSR Performance - Home of yet another jet TNT build :D
Codename "Just A Little....."
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JimmY
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Keel and Stem

Post by JimmY » Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:37 pm

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the great input. I looked at the other thread and all of your posts and I think I know where I'm off a little...

Looking at the plans, it originally looked to me like the keel was flat from the transom to frame 2. But looking a little closer, there is a slight curve to it.
20161028_164541.jpg
I double checked my transom, and you'll see that I had to shim it up a bit to get the keel flat.
20161028_164621.jpg
Now if I clamp the keel to the stem, there is a slight bow aft of frame 2 and slight dip between frame 1 and the transom. But, I should be able to lower and adjust the angle on the transom so that the keel is flat from the transom to forward of frame 1 into the bow. The biggest problem is that I have to take off the transom to get at the screws for those shims, but that is better than trying to fair it out later. Using my long straight edge, it looks like I will only have to drop it an 1/8" or so.

Again, thanks for the quick and helpful responses!
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

BillW
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by BillW » Sat Oct 29, 2016 10:31 am

That's a good idea to install the sheers before the chines. Otherwise you can't tell if the chines assume the right curvature
near the stem.

Also, do what it takes to make the keel straight; no dips or bumps anywhere in it's length. If you have to fair some off to
achieve that, then add a stiffener to the inside; I did that anyway.

It's looking good.

JimmY
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Sheers

Post by JimmY » Sun Oct 30, 2016 6:46 pm

I was able to straighten out the keel Saturday morning and epoxied it in place before heading over to a friends house to watch Michigan beat State. Simply dropping the transom a fraction of an inch took care of it and the keel is dead flat from the transom to forward of Frame 1 and there is a gentle curve leading into the stem.
20161029_093518.jpg
Between yard work and other duties, I was able to get the first lamination of the sheers on today. These are 5/8" x 1 1/4" Sapele, and I didn't need to steam or wet them down. I was able to screw them to the breast hook and slowly bent them around the rest of the frames. There was no snapping or popping! Score another point for Sapele. Also, I'm glad my building form is pretty sturdy as there is a lot of tension on these pieces.
20161030_124004.jpg
I temporarily clamped them in place, and used a combination of rasps, chisels, and planes to adjust the notches to fit the curve of the sheer. I double checked the distance from my centerline to each sheer and fiddled until everything was within 1/16". Epoxy was mixed and now they are permanent.
20161030_164036.jpg
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

JimmY
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Chines

Post by JimmY » Sun Oct 30, 2016 6:48 pm

I started working on the chines, but the epoxy for the sheers is still setting up and I didn't want to disturb them. I did get them cut and fit into the transom and temporarily screwed to the transom and frame 1. Frame 2 is going to need major work to fit the notch to the curve of the chine.
20161030_165007.jpg
20161030_164222.jpg
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

DSR
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by DSR » Sun Oct 30, 2016 7:22 pm

Looks great Jim! I'm glad you got the keel straightened out, so to speak..... :D
DSR Performance - Home of yet another jet TNT build :D
Codename "Just A Little....."
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=29753

rleete
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by rleete » Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:07 am

Good progress.

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hoodman
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by hoodman » Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:30 am

Looking great! You're catching on fast!
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by BarnacleMike » Mon Oct 31, 2016 10:30 am

Looking great, Jim! Congratulations on the progress!
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
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JimmY
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by JimmY » Mon Oct 31, 2016 1:12 pm

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm having fun and it was pretty crappy out yesterday so it was a good day to be in the shop.

Another question for other Squirt builders... On the plan there is line on the stem for the "chine" location. It doesn't say if this is the top, bottom, or actual break between the sides and bottom? I hadn't thought of that last option until I typed this question. The reason I ask is that when playing around with the chine, if it lays flat in the notch in frame 2, the twist is going to naturally put the chine almost at the breast hook and it will need to be bent up to hit the plan location. I've read that the chine location at the stem is a bit arbitrary, but I'm wondering where other builders have located it.

Thanks,
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

Benj269
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by Benj269 » Mon Oct 31, 2016 1:30 pm

I wondered the same thing, but making sure my breasthook was at the right height above the floor helped. After that it still seemed like they were about 2 inches away from the breasthook. I pulled mine down (up?) a little so it was 3 inches away. Any further and the joint at F2 starts to act a little weird and things don't flow correctly down the length of the chine.

Also, I did end up having to add some material to the outside of the last 12 inches or so of chine because they didn't bow out enough. It's difficult to judge until you get the sheer and stem somewhat faired.

I didn't notice the "Chine Junction" on the plans until you mentioned it. I'd have to measure, but I'm pretty sure even the bottom of mine is closer to the breasthook than that line.

Benj269
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by Benj269 » Mon Oct 31, 2016 1:42 pm

Yep, I'm way off. I think the joints at F2 have to be angled much differently than on the plans to be able to make a junction there.
chinejunction.jpg
A quick photoshop overlay

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BayouBengal
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by BayouBengal » Tue Nov 01, 2016 7:44 am

I seem to remember bending up on mine some to get it closer to the arbitrary point on the drawing, yet, in the end it fell a little closer to the breasthook.
Battens and Chines.JPG

Hercdrvr
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by Hercdrvr » Wed Nov 02, 2016 7:37 am

Here's where I fit my Squirt chine. It looked sportier if I moved the junction slightly closer to the breast hook
Matt B
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JimmY
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Chines

Post by JimmY » Wed Nov 02, 2016 9:31 am

I finished adjusting the chine notches in frame 2 last night, and frame 1 looks pretty close and may only need minor sanding. I've got the first layer of chine clamped in place and wet them down with water and ammonia (old modeler's trick) last night to see if that will help them take a set. I think I'll also try wetting them and then taking a he gun to it. Sort of a poor man's steamer. I'm shooting for the top (er.. bottom) of the chine log to be just above the mark on the stem. I figure the mark is the actual chine line and that after fairing this will be close.

I've also got a bar clamp on the chine between frame 2 and the stem to help twist it. Glen L is asking a lot from this one piece of wood! :shock: I'm thinking of adding a chine hook to help take some of the forces of this piece per BillW's suggestion. If you have any photos of how you cut this and attached it, please post them.

Later,
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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