Michigan Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sat Feb 25, 2017 1:48 pm

Jim

Believe me! I know about one hand sanding! I blew out my rotator cuff. Almost a year to get it fully back. I had a piece of wood snag the table-saw and launch over my shoulder! It stuck in the wall! Better the wall than my face! Be careful everyone.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

DSR
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:11 pm
Location: Allegan, Michigan

Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by DSR » Sat Feb 25, 2017 8:53 pm

Hi Jim.

I hope everything will smooth out for you quickly. This winter seems to have been pretty harsh for a lot of folks, both medically and mechanically.......
...And I'm glad to see you're making it through the more arduous task of the build with all the filling and sanding. I knew that Squirt of yours was going to end up being a beautiful little boat and the time and effort you're putting into it will definitely be reflected in the finished product!!! :D

Thanks
Dave
DSR Performance - Home of yet another jet TNT build :D
Codename "Just A Little....."
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=29753

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BayouBengal
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by BayouBengal » Mon Feb 27, 2017 7:56 am

Sorry to hear about your shoulder. Get well soon. But you know, tragedies such as your shoulder are life's way of enlightening us and telling us that perhaps we need to approach things differently. I'm kind of thinking that the injured shoulder is an implicit message saying that your wife needs to be sanding the boat. :)

BillW
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by BillW » Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:40 pm

I tried the "Wife Sanding the Boat" thing.

What it got me was: periodically she would casually stroll by, and point out areas I missed.

So JimmY, if you need more advise, just ask...

Bill

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by Bill Edmundson » Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:39 pm

I had the opposite experience! After my wife sanded, I suddenly, somehow, got better! :wink:

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by JimmY » Sat Mar 04, 2017 6:58 am

Well my elbow is finally feeling better. I was able to sneak down to the basement while convalescing and add the last of the fill coats of epoxy. Both scarf joints now sand smooth with the long board. I've spot filled several other low spots and I've got about a third of these sanded/faired in. I've hit glass in several spots, so I'm not going to fool around again and apply two coats of epoxy before the "final" sanding.

Trouble now is that on Thursday, my boss' boss' boss told me that I need to be in Germany on Monday to help put out a fire, so that's where I'll be next week. :( At least it will help make sure my elbow is back to 100% before getting into the final sanding.

I did get to a local wood working show yesterday, and picked up a piece of 4/4 5"x 8' white oak for $5 which will be used for the skeg/keel/fin.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Sharp edge

Post by JimmY » Wed Mar 15, 2017 5:57 am

I'm finally done with this round of sanding, and I've moved on to sharpening up the transom/bottom joint. I used a piece of Plexiglas I had laying around to dam up the transom and added some of the rope caulk, that I used for vacuum bagging, to dam up the ends. I used a pretty wet mix of epoxy and micro-balloons and troweled it in.
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The Plexiglass popped right off when it was cured, and a little sanding and shaping gave me a nice edge. I'm going to leave it sharp for now until the final coats of epoxy are applied. Then I'll break the edge slightly before paint.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

JimmY
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Keel/Skegg

Post by JimmY » Wed Mar 15, 2017 6:06 am

I milled up some white oak for my Keel/Skegg. Looking at other Squirt builds and what other builders used, I settled on 4' long, 1/2 thick, and 1 1/2" high tapering to 1/2" at the front and back. The keel ends 18" in front of the transom and all of the edges are rounded. I scuffed all surfaces with 60 grit to give the epoxy some tooth.

I taped off the bottom and applied epoxy to both the boat and keel, then add some micro-balloons to thicken it and smoothed on a small fillet around the keel. I used 4 screws from the inside through the keel and planking to secure it while the epoxy cures.
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This morning it is very solid. It will get a couple of coats of epoxy (no fiberglass), before paint. My understanding is that white oak is very hard and rot resistant, and by not glassing it any repairs should be easier.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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hoodman
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by hoodman » Wed Mar 15, 2017 5:21 pm

That's what I did with my skeg. My theory is that if you get a ding just coat it with a little epoxy and move on. Nobody will crawl under your boat to look at the skeg.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Finally something other than sanding!

Post by JimmY » Wed Mar 29, 2017 4:59 pm

I applied two more coats of epoxy, (and a third to the keel), and did my final long board sanding with 150/220.
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After reading about Matt's (hoodman) experience with the WR-LPU Camano red taking many coats to cover fully, I decided to lay down some System 3 Yacht Primer first. I taped off the bottom and wiped it down with alcohol. My basement shop is probably around 68 degrees and I dug out the kids room humidifier to bring up the humidity. This should help keep a wet edge and flow out the paint. I'm using the same "hot dog" foam rollers that I used for laying down epoxy.

A couple of observations and tips on this paint... I tried rolling and tipping the first section. The first time you load the roller and roll out the paint, there will be a lot of air bubbles. These go away once the roller has a bit of paint soaked into it. Loading up the roller I could easily cover a ~12" x 24" area. Working this way, it was easy to keep a wet edge and everything blended together fine. Once the area was covered, the roller is dry and using just the weight of the roller I can tip off any bubbles and smooth out any ridges. This paint doesn't like it if you smear or twist the roller too much, as it leaves a bare spot. You can use a bit of pressure when moving the paint around, but should use light straight strokes when smoothing it out. This first coat is pretty transparent, but by the third coat the coverage was pretty opaque.
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8oz. of paint (2 oz of hardener) was enough to do three coats on the bottom. You need 2 hours between coats, and I was able to get three coats on in 4 hours. By the last coat, the paint was much thicker and I'm not sure if this was too near the end of the pot life or if a lot of water had evaporated. I added a little water to thin it and it went on fine and appears to set up and stuck okay. I was hoping the lower temperatures in my shop would extend the pot life. I would recommend mixing just enough for 1 or 2 coats to avoid any issues.

There is a bit of orange peel with the rollers, but as the water evaporates the paint levels out nicely.
20170328_210859.jpg
I did vacuum and clean the shop a couple of times before starting, but this paint dries pretty fast and doesn't appear to pick up much dust.

System 3 recommends 4 coats if sanding. I bought a quart and have plenty left so I'm going to put down 5 total coats to make sure I don't sand through. It will get 3 days cure time, sanding with 320, and then paint.
Last edited by JimmY on Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Gray bottom

Post by JimmY » Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:02 pm

Not too bad...
20170329_062837.jpg
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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hoodman
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by hoodman » Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:00 am

Looking good!
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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BayouBengal
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by BayouBengal » Thu Mar 30, 2017 10:07 am

Top Work! Looking Great!!!

DSR
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Location: Allegan, Michigan

Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Post by DSR » Thu Mar 30, 2017 10:19 am

I agree!!

Top-notch as is everything about this little Squirt. Looks great Jim!! :D
DSR Performance - Home of yet another jet TNT build :D
Codename "Just A Little....."
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=29753

JimmY
Posts: 664
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

I have a red bottom!

Post by JimmY » Sun Apr 02, 2017 3:04 pm

Well the primer has set up for 3 days, so I sanded it with 220 grit to level out any orange peel and specks.

This morning I fired up the vaporizer to get some humidity in the shop and then started rolling on the Camano red WR-LPU paint. I thinned the first batch to ~10% (4 oz. paint, 1/2 oz. water with the cross linker added to it). It works similar to the yacht primer, so I just rolled it on like the primer but there were a lot of bubbles. For the most part, the bubbles took care of themselves, as you can see here:
20170402_084959.jpg
I put on a total of 5 coats, and I tried thinning out the paint a little more. Over all it was pretty easy to lay down, but the surface has a lot of orange peel.
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I'm not too concerned with the bottom, but it would be nice if it were smoother. I did put enough down so I could wet sand it if need be. What have you experiences been with this paint?

My big concern is rolling on the clear for the bright sides. I definitely don't want a "pebbly" finish on the sides. Any thoughts or suggestions on laying down gloss clear WR-LPU?
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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