Michigan Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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TomB
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby TomB » Sat Aug 26, 2017 10:22 am

Jim,

I don't think I would use 5200 for any of that. The stuff is really sticky, expensive, and sandable solid when cured. I really like 5200, but only for those thing you never, ever, plan to remove. I think 4200 might be a better choice...

Tom

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vupilot
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby vupilot » Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:46 pm

I used Boat Life caulk on all those above the waterline screws. No problems. It looks and works just like kitchen, bath or window caulk.

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Rich Coey
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby Rich Coey » Sat Aug 26, 2017 7:10 pm

Boat Life Caulk is what I used too. Easy cleanup. Small spots wipe off with a dry rag.
When it comes time to remove deck hardware and screws it is not a problem.

Rich

JimmY
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby JimmY » Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:26 pm

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info on the caulk. I'll look into the boat life or 4200.

I got the dash board sanded and polished today, and it came out pretty nice. I mounted the steering and switches, so I could proceed with the rest of the electrical and mechanical stuff

20170827_201200.jpg


With a little help, the motor was hung on the transom for the first time. I started to snug it down, but noticed two little tabs on each side of the clamp. I looked at the back of the storage stand, and there are 4 indents from these tabs. Are these typical? Can I grind them off? I'd really rather not mess up my transom. Or should I have I piece of aluminum or stainless bent up to protect the transom and cut notches for these?

20170827_152155.jpg


Next issue the steering support tube is working fine, except that I lose about 1/4 turn to the left when the linkage hits the transom clamp. This bar is abut 1/2" thick and chrome plated, so even if I could bend it I'm not sure I should. Should I try to bend this, or is the limited steering ok? Also, the end that attaches to the cable is fine and I just need to find a lock nut for it, but at the other end there is a lot of slop. Is there a bushing or something that is supposed to go here?

20170827_185613.jpg


I did get the throttle and shift cables hooked up and most of the electrical. Third issue, the previous owner McGuber had a key switch welded to the steering yolk, that will need to be ground off, and only hooked up the starter and choke. My ignition switch has a "magneto" wire that is grounded when the switch is off. I can't find any place to hook this up. I assume that this is to short out the coils to kill the engine. Any ideas here? I can probably get by initially by choking the engine to stop it.

The dash sanded out fine with 600 grit, so I'll give the deck another day or two to cure and start leveling it. If I can sort out these other issues, Labor day weekend is looking good! :D
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

BillW
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby BillW » Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:39 pm

JimmY,
Those tabs on the clamp brackets are intended to bite into the transom a little, to reduce the possibility of the motor working it's way off.
That is the vintage OMC method, in lieu of provision for bolting the motor on.

I have used .060 or .080 rubber sheet gasket material, from the hardware store, to make little pads for under there, to minimize the
marks on the transom, but not eliminate them. Not the red color material. You want friction between the transom and clamp brackets.

I am pretty certain that your link arm is on end-for-end. I say that based on how my three boats are set up, although I cannot be certain of your geometry, so I may be wrong. In any case, install bushings as necessary, greased, to eliminate slop in the steering, for sure. I would not be
concerned about a lost 1/4 turn.

I think the standard set-up for a 50's OMC motor was "choke-to-stop".

That boat will be absolutely beautiful.

Bill

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BayouBengal
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby BayouBengal » Mon Aug 28, 2017 3:54 am

In accordance with Bill W, you can do without the quarter turn unless you're really looking for high performance. I did bend mine. It was stainless steel and was hell to bend. I heated the living hell out of it and it was glowing red hot, and then I still had to use a three foot pipe on it for leverage. I have an owner's manual for my motor with the only difference between my motor and yours being 3hp. The manual doesn't give you a lot of info, but I'll scan it later today and email it to you.

I don't recall precisely how I wired my motor, but it was wired to kill the motor electrically, vice just choking it out. The initial plan was to have a "start" pushbutton and "choke" pushbutton on the dash, and there was no key switch. I later installed an key switch under the seat so that I could kill the motor. I installed it under the seat so as to not mess up my dash aesthetics. So, on my boat, the key switch had to be turned on in order to start the motor with the "start" pushbutton. And when I turned the key switch to off, it electrically killed the engine. Below is a faint picture of the ignition switch.
Close up of Key Switch.jpg

JimmY
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby JimmY » Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:13 am

HI Guys,

Thanks for the info, I found some of that rubber gasket material at Big Orange and I'll check it out later today.

BillW wrote:I am pretty certain that your link arm is on end-for-end. I say that based on how my three boats are set up, although I cannot be certain of your geometry, so I may be wrong. In any case, install bushings as necessary, greased, to eliminate slop in the steering, for sure.


I think you're right about the link arm, but If I turn it around, the bent end has a lot of slop in the cable end so I think it will be easier the way I have it. This way I just have to kludge something together for the one end. Also, the threads are longer and will drag on the deck of the boat.

@Jeff, let me know if you find anything on a magneto kill. I've also contacted another source for those motors to see if there is something.

Later,
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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BayouBengal
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby BayouBengal » Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:09 am

I suppose I wired the key switch to ground when in off position and hot when in the on position, but I don't recall the switch contact arrangement and don't have a wiring diagram. By the way, just glanced at the owner's manual and emailed it to you. Choking is a perfectly fine way to kill the engine, but I prefer killing electrically.

PeterG
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby PeterG » Mon Aug 28, 2017 8:15 am

For a magneto ignition, the ignition switch can be a simple single pole set up to close contacts in the ignition off position, to ground the magneto. Turning to ignition "on" position simply opens the contacts and the magneto will work. You can pull start or electric start then. Things get a little more interesting when you have electric start and accessories that should only work when the ignition is "on". There you need at a minimum a single pole double throw style switch that makes contact in either direction. What makes things even more interesting is when you have a battery ignition ( all non-magneto ignitions), suddenly the ignition switch has a grounding position, a power on position, and a typically a start/crank position. There are many variations on how the switch is used within the electrical setup for the boat. I will stick to my Mercontrol setup for my '65 Merc 650, keeps things simple for the motor, and a separate battery circuit for the nav lights, bilge pump and accessories.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

JimmY
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby JimmY » Mon Aug 28, 2017 9:55 am

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the Johnson manuals you sent. I looked through them at lunch time and in the "Electric Starting" section it says:

"To stop the motor move throttle to STOP or, if operating with remote controls, move remote control throttle to SLOW position and press choke."

So, I guess I just choke it out. My ignition switch has OFF/RUN/START and Push to CHOKE, so no problem.

I did some other research, and found some other images online where people have wired in a kill switch to what appears to be the condensers. I plan to do some work on this motor this winter, so I'll take a closer look at it then.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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Ibrew2be
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby Ibrew2be » Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:56 pm

For what it's worth, as a kid growing up, the family boat had a 1957 Evinrude 35 hp with electric start. It was a 2 button system, one for start and the other for choke/stop. The thing is, we almost never used the choke button to kill the engine. We almost always stopped it simply by moving the throttle all the way back to the minimum speed position, and that was enough to do the trick.

Barry
Barry Shantz

Imp built and launched. Thinking hard about Boat 2.0

JimmY
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby JimmY » Tue Aug 29, 2017 5:54 am

HI Barry,

Thanks for the info, I'm going to be learning a lot about old outboards. I grew up with a small sailboat, but always dreamed of having a little hydro or something powered.

I got the rub rail fitted last night, and it came out pretty good. I started from the rear drilling and installing screws (#8 x 3/4") and worked forward bending the rub rail down to fit. There are a few spots near the bow where is bulges out a bit, but I think I can make some adjustments now that is off. I did strip out one screw, that will need a minor repair. I plan to use a tooth pick to put some epoxy into each hole, and I'll use the Boat Life Calk on each screw when I install it permanently.

I also cut and fit the transom bands. The transom/side joint is almost straight on the Squirt, so you don't need anything custom here. Marine Industries carries 1 1/4" banding that looks fine. One question here is, should I extend it all the way to the bottom of the boat with a screw hole about 1/2" up from the bottom, or should I cut it off near the water line? I can always over drill the screw hole, fill with epoxy, and re-drill it to make sure it will be sealed. Also, should I calk behind the banding when I install it?

20170828_210858.jpg

20170828_210916.jpg
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby Bill Edmundson » Tue Aug 29, 2017 6:17 am

Jim

I would not caulk behind the banding, just the screws. You could do a lot of damage when the banding has to come off. I had to re-glass that area on the Tahoe.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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vupilot
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Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby vupilot » Tue Aug 29, 2017 3:25 pm

Agreed. Just caulk on the screws. A little epoxy in the hole below the water line, let it fully cure then install the screw with caulk.

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Michigan Squirt Build

Postby JimmY » Tue Aug 29, 2017 6:56 pm

Thanks, guys.

Got the deck flattened with 600 grit tonight. I can't lift my arms. :( Drinking my beer with a straw.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!


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