Tucker's Squirt

[TDI]

I've been working on building a squirt the last 2 months and am having some issues with encapsulating the frames. I want to keep it documented as others have so I just started a blog but it's not quite up to date yet with where I'm at. I've cut out the frames and built the building form. I've got some coats of epoxy on the frames and having an issue with the epoxy sort of streaking once applied. Sometimes the epoxy looks great and other times it looks horrible. I am using MAS epoxy with the Low-tox hardener. It doesn't matter if I mix it by volume or by weight, same outcome. Found a post on it under the epoxy section but there is no resolve. Let me figure out how to post a pic of the issue and I hope that someone here can tell me what is going on. One pic shows the streaking and the other is without streaking issue.




https://goo.gl/photos/nzQ3wBdT78h8xtEh7

https://goo.gl/photos/rfJHBxGcv62T3X4a9

[Roberta]

It's possible the second, or subsequent, coat(s) were applied too long after the last coat had cured or the coat was too thick. Sanding and cleaning is needed if subsequent coats are applied more than 24 hrs after the last coat.

Roberta

[TDI]

I did sand in between coats. I even wiped down with warm soapy water because after the second coat it seems to have almost an oily residue over it and thought it could be amine blush even though this epoxy is not suppose to have amine blush. I tried 220 grit and I've tried 120 grit which seemed to do a little better or could be my imagination. After wiping down and sanding I cleaned all the dust off with denatured alcohol and then epoxied.

[Bill Edmundson]

Looks like to first coat may have blushed. MAS Slow Hardener is supposed to be no blush. I don't remember about the Low Tox.

Bill

[Roberta]

Could be the coat was just a little too thick.

Roberta

[TDI]

Thanks, I will continue wiping, sanding, and try thinner coats.

[TDI]

So I switched to system three silvertip and seems to work much better.
Now my question is when is the best time to install the transom knee. Right now i'm working on aligning the frames on my building form. Do I wait until I have the keel in place and then install the transom knee while it's upside down or do I install the transom knee to the transom prior to securing the transom to the building form during alignment?

[mrintense]

Tucker,

Like almost all aspects of this build, the best thing to do is test fit, experiment, and spend time in the thinking chair before doing anything permanent. I temporarily placed my transom on the build form and temporarily clamped the keel in position, then fitted the knee. Then everything came off, holes were drill and then everything went back up to test fir again. When I was satisfied that I could assemble it off the boat, then I epoxied the knee into place on the transom.

[vupilot]

Looks like the first picture definitely had some contaminant on the wood. I have used MAS on two boats and never had that problem but I have never tried the low tox hardener.

I used the knee install to help set the angle of the transom so I found it helpful to install as I mounted the transom and keel to the form.

[JimmY]

I fastened and epoxied the knee to the transom before assembling it to the frame. I used a scrap of the keel to make sure it was aligned properly. Keep in mind that once you bolt the keel in place, any change in the transom angle will introduce a bend in the keel (rocker or hook).

You actually may need to adjust the transom angle when you bolt the keel to the stem. On the Squirt, the keel bends a bit at the stem (this is normal) and it may change the curve of the keel between the transom and frame #1. It will definitely give you a bit of an arch between frame #1 and #2. You want to make sure the keel is dead flat between the transom and frame #1.

[TDI]

Thanks for the tips. Now that I'm beginning to mount the frames it's getting exciting...and addicting!

[TDI]

Crack in Chine!
I'm working on bending my second chine and I noticed a small crack that may possibly be just a surface crack. I thought I'd check with the forum what you guys think. I'm wondering if I just need to replace the chine or if it's nothing to worry about. What do you guys think I should do? hopefully you can view my pics. The marks and indentions in the wood are from my clamps. the crack is right near frame 2.

[PeterG]

For some reason I can't see the pictures, but if your crack is located on the outer surface of the chine that may be problematic, especially at the edges, and in way of a frame. That's a high stress point where the wood is stretching under tension. A small flaw can grow into a crack and then a break. If it's near the lower edge or a part of the chine that gets faired off, you might get away with pre-fairing the flaw or crack. Make it a smooth, extended removal because sharp edges or corners can themselves become crack starters.
If it's not tearing or protesting when it's bent into place, leave it clamped there for a day and see if it's ok. OR, if it's not already cut and fitted at the ends yet, flip it so it bends the other way, crack on the inside of the bend. Then the flaw is in compression and won't be a problem.

[TDI]

One more pic. It is the outer surface.

[PeterG]

My take on this is it's a somewhat limited crack running with the grain (not across, which is bad) and looks like the grain doesn't run off an edge, may not be a problem. But, it is in a high stress area, bending around a frame. Any others here have a thought? You could take a chance and use as it as it sits, that area will be stabilized when epoxied with the plywood. Or maybe flipping the chine to relocate the crack to a lower stress area. Worst case, replace the chine. By the way, great job clamping the twist into your chine. It looks like it nicely fairs into place without a "hollow" or back curve between the stem and frame.