Tucker's Squirt

Outboard designs up to 14'

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JimmY
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby JimmY » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:36 am

If you can flip it, I would do that. Like Pete wrote, this is in a high stress area and you don't want any question on the soundness of the chine in this area. Also, it may be weaker and bend different from the other side. You want to make sure the chines are symmetrical as much as possible. It will be a small step back at this point.

Looking nice, and you shop is too clean! :D
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

TDI
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby TDI » Sun Sep 10, 2017 4:30 pm

Thanks for the input. I saw someone else clamp the twists in the chine that way and it really helps to keep the proper angle when cutting the end of the chine to the stem. I did find that after screwing the chine to the stem and removing those boards it did twist back a little so more fairing will be needed. I'm going to sit and think on that crack some more. I don't think much will be faired down at that point but I might take a chisel or something to it just to see if its shallow and on just the outside of the wood. I've had it bent and twisted in place a couple days so I think flipping the board over will be very difficult to get in proper place and bent again and all sorts of different directions. At that point probably better to make another chine. Just means I have to find some time to get another mahogany board.
Tucksquirt.blogspot.com

TDI
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby TDI » Sun Sep 10, 2017 4:49 pm

Ok so after taking off a very small amount with a chisel I think the crack was very superficial likely from all the clamping pressure right in that area. Otherwise the wood looks pretty solid there with no give when pushing on it so I think i'm going to move forward and keep this chine. I may just fill that area with a little epoxy in the meantime and keep a close eye on it as I finish up the chines.
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BarnacleMike
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:34 pm

That being the case, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

In addition to filling the chiseled area with thickened epoxy, you might also add some material to the inner surface of the chine, just for peace of mind. A strip of 1/4 marine plywood should be plenty, I'd think.

On the thickened epoxy for filling in that chiseled area:

I'd suggest thickening it with wood dust, rather than silica. In my experience, epoxy that has been thickened with wood dust is more resilient when it comes to withstanding impact, etc. My opinion is that it's simply stronger, and better suited for this type of thing.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
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TDI
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby TDI » Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:03 pm

That's true. I didn't think about putting a little reinforcement on the inside. Thanks.
Tucksquirt.blogspot.com

TDI
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby TDI » Thu Dec 28, 2017 6:35 pm

So I'm getting close to applying the side panels. I'm having trouble bending the plywood to the curvature of the transom without the outer layers cracking. I tried to do bend a scrap piece using a towel and boiling water against a 2x4 I had cut to match the transom curve. It made the bend fine but about a week later the outer layers ended up cracking. I was hoping it would some what mold to shape and if it all worked out I would use that method with the actual side panel when I'm ready. when I unclamped that piece it went right back to a straight shape! my scrap pieces of ply I have been using to help guide my fairing start to crack along the extreme curve of the transom. Anyone have any issues with the ply cracking when applying the full length side panels? I'm trying to figure out what else I can do to prevent that from happening when I start to epoxy my side panel in place. I'll post some example pictures. I'm using marine grade douglas fir plywood.
Also, to keep from manipulating and splitting the side panel that I scarfed together, when I attempt to mark the cutout I was thinking I would get some cheap 1/4 or 1/8 ply from home depot and use that for marking my cutout and then transfer that to my marine grade ply side panel. I think the cheap stuff from home depot is more flexible and will lessen the risk of me cracking my side panel with my marine ply.

I was also wondering if anyone else has this gap between the side panel and sheer need the transom curve after fairing. I don't think I could fair it or bend it any differently to get it to lay completely flat at with that curvature. ( last picture)
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Hercdrvr
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby Hercdrvr » Thu Dec 28, 2017 8:44 pm

Planking can be a wrestling match, take it slow. You might try a couple ratchet straps to apply even pressure.

Don’t worry about the gap on the underside of the sheer/planking junction. I took some left over epoxy with saw dust mixed in and poured it into the gap, peace of mind I guess.

There are those who have and those who will snap planking going for the curve.
Matt B

JimmY
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby JimmY » Fri Dec 29, 2017 7:31 am

Hi Tucker,

You probably already have the Douglas fir ply, but is switching to Okoume or Hydrotek an option? It might be a hit to the wallet right now, but will save you a lot of aggravation and give you piece of mind that the Douglas Fir is not cracking further under your epoxy. Depending on how much your have, you can always use it for the bottom and deck, and just use the good stuff on the sides. I would be hesitant to use anything other than Marine grade plywood, since it has specifications for internal gaps to prevent breaking under bending loads.

If this is not an option, go slow and give the wood time to "acclimate" to it's new shape.

I had the same gap between the sheer and sides on my Squirt. A little thickened epoxy, and it is fine. When screwing/nailing the plywood down along the sheer, make sure to set them well in from the top of the sheer. I got a lot of experience sharpening my plane iron after hitting multiple screws while fairing.

Also, don' t forget the limbers on your battens at the transom.

Keep up the good work.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

TDI
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby TDI » Fri Dec 29, 2017 5:29 pm

Thanks for the tips. Marine grade douglas fir is all I could find near me and even that is a 2 hr drive one way. I'll try to go slow, I'm just afraid to go to slow since I'm working with epoxy when applying the side panel. I'd really hate to get it epoxied down and then it crack later.

The home depot ply was just to bend and mark out the rough cutout and then I'll transfer it to my marine grade ply. Definitely won't use non-marine grade ply on the boat.
Tucksquirt.blogspot.com

TDI
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby TDI » Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:12 pm

Ok so I went ahead and ordered some Okume ply and I have to say, it is way better to work with than the douglas fir. I don't think I would have ever made the bends with the douglas fir. Got all my panels on yesterday and now time to fair it down smooth and fiberglass.

Question: I plan to fiberglass and paint the hull. I left quite a bit of plywood overhang on the topside of the boat. Do I need to fair that down with the sheer before fiberglass and paint or fiberglass and paint and then fair it down once it's flipped? I just don't want the fiberglass and paint to chip when I flatten it down with my block plane. Not sure how it would do.
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billy c
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby billy c » Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:43 pm

Nice work Tucker!
A sharp plane or saw will cut that back fine. sometimes a layer of tape on the surface will help too. If you own a router, a flush cutting carbide bit will make quick work of it. In the end though, there will be a rubrail covering the joint hiding the seam.
Billy
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hoodman
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby hoodman » Sun Mar 18, 2018 7:10 pm

Hey you got the planking done, congratulations!

TDI
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby TDI » Sun Mar 18, 2018 8:09 pm

Thanks for the tips! I will probably cut the panels down a little closer to the sheers and then go ahead and fiberglass and paint and use my router to finish it off once it's flipped.
Tucksquirt.blogspot.com

PeterG
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby PeterG » Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:28 am

WOW. Excellent job with the planking, the transitions of the joints between the bottom and side planking are like textbook perfect. Nicely done!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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mrintense
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Re: Tucker's Squirt

Postby mrintense » Mon Mar 19, 2018 8:48 am

Looks nice Tuck. I decided to leave my side overhang in place until after the flip. It turned out to be a good decision. Much easier to take care after the flip and in my case I had to make some adjustments to the fairing on the sheer. And as Billy mentioned, the edge will be finished in some manner anyway, either covered over with a rub rail or blended into a hardwood edge, depending upon your choice. also, fiber glass and epoxy is easy to repair any small chips.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

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