Flying Saucer

Outboard designs up to 14'

Moderator: ttownshaw

JimmY
Posts: 665
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by JimmY » Tue Aug 08, 2017 9:41 am

Looking good.

Just have a plan for fairing the end grain on the lap joints.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

String88
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 5:40 pm

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by String88 » Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:59 am

I checked on the wood in my area. Mahogany is $6 per board ft. white oak is $5 per board ft. ash is $3 per board ft.

I think I'll probably use a sander on the end grain for the lap joints...

String88
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 5:40 pm

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by String88 » Fri Aug 11, 2017 1:05 pm

I may have found a motor for the boat (I know it's kinda early) it's a 50 hp short shaft. I'm not sure how much I need to reinforce the transom to handle the extra weight or hp. I don't know if it's even a good idea to get this motor. I need some advice. It's a used motor early 80s model for $300. Am I deranged? Maybe I am because I'm building a boat :lol:

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1042
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by BarnacleMike » Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:11 pm

IF you do purchase this motor, then I would highly recommend building your Flying Saucer to an extended length of 14 feet & 3–4 inches.

Essentially, that's going to give you a very similar boat to the Zip. Quite a few people have successfully used 50hp motors on Zips. I personally think it would be crazy to put a 50hp motor on a 12' Flying Saucer, but I believe it has been done before:
http://boatbuilders.glen-l.com/flying-s ... rry-waller

A well-built transom (at least 1" plywood with 1" framing), with a motor well, should be all the reinforcement you'd need.

That does sound like a good price for the motor, if it's in good condition. Can you give more details on the motor?
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

JimmY
Posts: 665
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by JimmY » Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:39 am

Sounds like a good deal, but I would thoroughly check it out.

For the transom, I assume the plans call for 3/4" plywood and 3/4" finished thickness framing. From your photo posted, I would just make the two top framing pieces into one wider board that runs from side to side, and widen the plywood doubler a bit. It is a simple mod even if you go with lower power.

I'm sure the design is strong enough as drawn.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 11182
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:00 am

String

I would build the transom up. If only for peace of mind. Then you won't think about it when the trailer hit a pothole or the when the boat pounds jumping a damn wake.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

String88
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 5:40 pm

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by String88 » Sat Aug 12, 2017 3:16 pm

It's a Johnson 50hp the seller isn't sure the year. He thinks late 70s early 80s. Here are a couple pics of the motor. It's been detached from a boat for about 2 years. He SAYS it's a good motor but I'm new to all this and I wouldn't know unless I saw it run.

Any ideas on how I can know if it will run without a boat to put it on?

I would definitely reinforce the transom and I've been thinking about stretching it out the 10% anyways...
Attachments
IMG_0780.JPG
IMG_0779.JPG
IMG_0777.JPG

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1910
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by hoodman » Sat Aug 12, 2017 3:42 pm

I'm going to be the voice of dissent here. Yeah it's going to run like crap and smoke and be really loud. And it's too big of a motor for a flying saucer. You'll be fighting the weight balance even with a properly sized outboard. A flying saucer will FLY with 25 hp as rated. I would even say you could go a with a little bit more power if you wanted but not DOUBLE. If you wait a little longer you'll easily find a more appropriate motor.

Anyways, have fun with your build. They are a lot of fun to build and you will learn a lot! I always thought the Flying saucer was a cool design.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 11182
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sat Aug 12, 2017 3:59 pm

String

First, grab that fly wheel and see if it will turn. Do you feel any compression? Put some light oil thru the plug holes and turn it a few times before trying to start it.

Others will jump in now, who know what they're talking about.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Brad Tucker
Posts: 336
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:20 am
Location: Washington, GA

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by Brad Tucker » Sat Aug 12, 2017 4:28 pm

I'm inclined to agree with Matt on being careful about overpowering. Here are a few tips on looking at an outboard:

If it has been sitting, replace the water pump impeller (should do it annually anyway).

Pull the lower unit oil drain plug and make sure there is no water present. Lower units are expensive.

Pull the spark plugs and make sure no metal is on them.

Check the compression. You should have no more than 5-7psi difference. Any more suggests a worn or damaged cylinder.

If it's crankable, hook it up to water and fire it up, but if the water pump is old, watch it like a hawk and make sure it doesn't run hot.

3 things that will kill a motor faster than anything else are a bad water pump, fishing line around the prop shaft (water gets into the lower unit), and water in the gas.

Back when I was 19 or so, my uncle had a boat dealership and shop, and one of my first jobs was working on Evinrudes and Johnsons.

String88
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 5:40 pm

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by String88 » Sat Aug 12, 2017 4:52 pm

Thank you everyone so much for your help and advice.

At this point I'm inclined to pass on this particular motor. I would like to get a vintage motor, but I also want a 4 stroke. I understand hp on modern motors are measured differently than the old models. I'm trying to work my way through all the information. I want a good deal, but I don't want to spend money on a motor that won't work or requires a lot of work to get it going.

Thanks for the input. It's always welcome.

User avatar
kens
Posts: 4581
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: Coastal Georgia

Re: Flying Saucer

Post by kens » Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:11 pm

Can you get clear straight Cypress??
I used cypress for my motor stringers,
and tested some against strength of mahogany, i was quite surprised at cypress strength, and cost.
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

Post Reply

Return to “Small outboards”