Squirt in Manitoba

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Squirt in Manitoba

Postby Two8nine » Sat Oct 07, 2017 1:55 pm

Hi, I posted a while back on a Squirt build I'd run into a bunch of troubles with.

I ultimately decided to restart, as I wasn't too far along, and want to get started the right way. I purchased the Boatbuilding with Plywood book, gave it a read, and replaced my ratty old scroll saw with a band saw for cutting the frames.

I'm waiting on the plywood, but in the meantime I've cut out most of the smaller symmetrical pieces. (Nice to be able to cut out both halves at once.)

Couple questions:

1. I have not yet cut out the notches, as the ones on the plan didn't line up well with the longitudinal's the first time round, how would you suggest (and when) to cut these out? Wait till the chine/shear are ready to go on, or cut them now?

2. with the Squirt will I be fairing the individual frames much beyond the notches, or does the planking not touch them enough to matter?

3. Is some fairing typically done before fastening? Particularly with the keel, there's some big bolts put into areas that require a lot of fairing near the stem. First time round I just drilled larger holes so the bolt head sat lower, but I worry that will negatively impact the strength.

Appreciate any thoughts.

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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby BarnacleMike » Sat Oct 07, 2017 4:00 pm

1. My personal opinion is that the Squirt is such a long-established design, you'd be safe to go ahead and cut all the notches. As many Squirt projects as there have been, any misalignment in the plans would be a pretty well-documented issue.... and that does not seem to be the case. Just draw and cut as accurately as possible.

2. Once the floor battens are installed, they should be close to level with the projected lines of the frames (on the bottom). The planking on the floor should make good contact with all its mating surfaces along the battens and frames. As I understand it, a slight gap between the hull sides and the sides of the frames is acceptable, but not preferred.

3. Counter-sinking the bolts on the bottom of the keel, as you've described, is about the best you can do. Mine are countersunk a little too much, (about half the thickness of the keel). However, there seems to be no problem at all with the strength of the joint.

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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby JimmY » Sun Oct 08, 2017 6:35 am

Hi 289,

1.) For the batten notches, don't blindly use the plans since the copying process is not 100% accurate. I wrote about this in my build thread in the first post. Measure the location and width from the centerline, and cut based on the measurements. Also, there is a lot of leeway on the size of the battens, so cut them based on what your final milled lumber sizes. I think I used the same measurements for each frame.

2.) Like Mikes says, the bottom plywood will touch along all the frames. Frame 2 will need some significant fairing for this. On the sides, the plywood touched frame 1 along the whole length, but at frame 2 there was a slight gap. Just make sure if there is a gap to encapsulate the edge of the frame before skinning it. Just make sure to NOT screw the plywood down along the frames. Only screw into the longitudinal members. If you screw into the frame edges, it will be like the perforations between stamps (read "CRACK").

3.) Counter sinking the transom knee bolts has to be done. Just make sure they are deep enough so you can fair the keel. I also counter sunk the bolts in the transom and filled them with thickened epoxy. Make sure to use double dipped, hot galvanized bolts or bronze if you can spend the money. These bolts will be fully encapsulated, so stainless is a no-no. I also counter sunk the nuts in the transom knee, so they wouldn't be sticking out and catching on stuff.

Keep in mind, the boat was designed to be strong enough. The designer took into account that bolts would need to be counter sunk so that the hull could be faired. You shouldn't have to "beef up" anything.

Glad to hear you're back at it.
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