Squirt in Manitoba

Outboard designs up to 14'

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hoodman
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by hoodman »

Yes, as Matt said sometimes you have to just start fairing a little bit and then you'll know better if you need another lam somewhere.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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Two8nine
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by Two8nine »

Started cutting notches into chine/sheer in preparation of fairing. I'm using the rabl method described in Boatbuilding with Plywood and looking for some input.

If I'm understanding correctly, I measure the total circumferential length of the member, (so if a flexible ruler gives 50 inches from stem to frame 1 for the sheer, and 46 inches for the chine, I'd notch every 10 and 9.2 inches respectively.) and divide into proportional segments, and then treat these points essentially as vertices of a polygon, with perfectly straight edges between them. Each point should look something like this, is that correct?:

Image

The amount of wood removed from the sheer makes me nervous, I knew it would be a lot, but this is more than half. May be unnecessary, but I've glued an additional 3/8 lamination to the inside of the shear up forward. This is the deepest notch prior to added the new lamination. That's a lot to remove.

Image

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by DrBryanJ »

That is how it works. Good job. It is scary how much wood you remove. You can do same process from stem to chine. May need additional lamination on chine as well
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

JimmY
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by JimmY »

My sheers are essentially triangular from frame 2 forward. They are holding up fine.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

hoodman
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by hoodman »

Another lamination on the inside won't hurt anything, but once the plywood is on there will be no more questions about strength!
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

Two8nine
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Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:21 am

Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by Two8nine »

Thanks for the comments everyone, been a big help.

Spent some time with a grinder and belt sander -- does this look about right?

Found myself second guessing a lot, and it's definitely not perfect, there will be some small gaps, particularly within 5 inches of the stem -- got kind of sloppy there -- but don't really see a way to fix that short of thickened epoxy -- so I'm intending to just deal with that when attaching the plywood.

The straightness of the chine looks off to me, but hoping it comes together ok.

Image

Image

Hercdrvr
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by Hercdrvr »

Based on the saw dust on the floor, I’d say you're doing great. Looks pretty fair to me. Im amazed at anyone who can fair a boat using that mathematical Mumbo-jumbo Rabl technique. I just grap the closest stick of wood and hold it on the boat. TLAR method for me, that looks about right.
Boat is looking real sharp,
Matt B

neel thompson
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by neel thompson »

Instead of using thickened epoxy to fill gaps prior to planking, I usually cut thin pieces of mahogany on my table saw, maybe 1/8" thick and epoxy them onto the boards showing gaps. Then I sand it down again to be fair. It is much better to get your frames, battens, sheer, chine, and keel as perfect as possible before putting the plywood on. I know this to be true as I have learned from experience that sanding the framework is much easier than sanding dips and high spots out of the plywood !! Your boat looks great.... Hang in there now and you will be much happier later on... Neel

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by BarnacleMike »

It looks good to me. I think you’re coming along very well.

The “trouble area” near the stem that you mention is not readily apparent to my eye. But, I would only repeat what Neel said about shims. If you have enough of a gap where you are able to epoxy a shim and sand it to shape, it’s better to do that than just fill it with epoxy.

Yes, in many cases the epoxy will suffice — and God knows, I’ve done it. But, in the end you’ll be happier with yourself and the end result if you do some “precision shimming.”
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!

Hercdrvr
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by Hercdrvr »

Like Neel and Mike said, if it needs a shim up near the stem it’s no big deal to glue a slice of wood on. I had 2 or 3 shims on my Squirt chine.
Matt B
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PeterG
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by PeterG »

That looks great! Nicely done.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Two8nine
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Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:21 am

Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by Two8nine »

Not abandoned, it's finally warm enough to start working again, though it's still below freezing some nights so haven't been able to do much glueing.

I'm about ready to attach the first side plank, and am trying to find a local-ish source for nails.

Plans call for #12 1 inch ring nails, which I haven't been able to find anywhere.

Closest I can get are Silicon Bronze boat nails which come in #14 1 inch or #12 1.5 inch.

Given the majority of the strength is coming from the glue -- would the #14 be sufficient, or should I just plan on chopping off a lot of tips from the longer #12 nails?

Appreciated.

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chugalug
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by chugalug »

Doesn't Glen-L have a fastener kit?
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

Two8nine
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Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:21 am

Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by Two8nine »

They do but getting stuff through the border has proven prohibitively expensive, not to mention the exchange can be brutal. I'd prefer to rely on what's available locally.

Biss
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Post by Biss »

You could probably just use locally sourced deck screws and remove them after the epoxy cures.

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