Squirt in Manitoba

Outboard designs up to 14'

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hoodman
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Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby hoodman » Wed Aug 08, 2018 5:25 am

Yes, as Matt said sometimes you have to just start fairing a little bit and then you'll know better if you need another lam somewhere.

Two8nine
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby Two8nine » Thu Aug 09, 2018 6:47 am

Started cutting notches into chine/sheer in preparation of fairing. I'm using the rabl method described in Boatbuilding with Plywood and looking for some input.

If I'm understanding correctly, I measure the total circumferential length of the member, (so if a flexible ruler gives 50 inches from stem to frame 1 for the sheer, and 46 inches for the chine, I'd notch every 10 and 9.2 inches respectively.) and divide into proportional segments, and then treat these points essentially as vertices of a polygon, with perfectly straight edges between them. Each point should look something like this, is that correct?:

Image

The amount of wood removed from the sheer makes me nervous, I knew it would be a lot, but this is more than half. May be unnecessary, but I've glued an additional 3/8 lamination to the inside of the shear up forward. This is the deepest notch prior to added the new lamination. That's a lot to remove.

Image

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby DrBryanJ » Thu Aug 09, 2018 7:52 am

That is how it works. Good job. It is scary how much wood you remove. You can do same process from stem to chine. May need additional lamination on chine as well
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby JimmY » Thu Aug 09, 2018 9:19 am

My sheers are essentially triangular from frame 2 forward. They are holding up fine.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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hoodman
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby hoodman » Thu Aug 09, 2018 9:26 am

Another lamination on the inside won't hurt anything, but once the plywood is on there will be no more questions about strength!

Two8nine
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby Two8nine » Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:58 pm

Thanks for the comments everyone, been a big help.

Spent some time with a grinder and belt sander -- does this look about right?

Found myself second guessing a lot, and it's definitely not perfect, there will be some small gaps, particularly within 5 inches of the stem -- got kind of sloppy there -- but don't really see a way to fix that short of thickened epoxy -- so I'm intending to just deal with that when attaching the plywood.

The straightness of the chine looks off to me, but hoping it comes together ok.

Image

Image

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby Hercdrvr » Sat Aug 11, 2018 1:12 am

Based on the saw dust on the floor, I’d say you're doing great. Looks pretty fair to me. Im amazed at anyone who can fair a boat using that mathematical Mumbo-jumbo Rabl technique. I just grap the closest stick of wood and hold it on the boat. TLAR method for me, that looks about right.
Boat is looking real sharp,
Matt B

neel thompson
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby neel thompson » Sat Aug 11, 2018 2:44 am

Instead of using thickened epoxy to fill gaps prior to planking, I usually cut thin pieces of mahogany on my table saw, maybe 1/8" thick and epoxy them onto the boards showing gaps. Then I sand it down again to be fair. It is much better to get your frames, battens, sheer, chine, and keel as perfect as possible before putting the plywood on. I know this to be true as I have learned from experience that sanding the framework is much easier than sanding dips and high spots out of the plywood !! Your boat looks great.... Hang in there now and you will be much happier later on... Neel

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby BarnacleMike » Sat Aug 11, 2018 6:52 am

It looks good to me. I think you’re coming along very well.

The “trouble area” near the stem that you mention is not readily apparent to my eye. But, I would only repeat what Neel said about shims. If you have enough of a gap where you are able to epoxy a shim and sand it to shape, it’s better to do that than just fill it with epoxy.

Yes, in many cases the epoxy will suffice — and God knows, I’ve done it. But, in the end you’ll be happier with yourself and the end result if you do some “precision shimming.”
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby Hercdrvr » Sat Aug 11, 2018 7:54 am

Like Neel and Mike said, if it needs a shim up near the stem it’s no big deal to glue a slice of wood on. I had 2 or 3 shims on my Squirt chine.
Matt B
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PeterG
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Re: Squirt in Manitoba

Postby PeterG » Sat Aug 11, 2018 6:15 pm

That looks great! Nicely done.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.


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