Stephens Zip

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Roberta
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Location: East Troy, Wisconsin

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Roberta » Sun Jul 29, 2018 4:03 pm

Yeah, my Zip thread lost a lot of pictures due to my host going belly up. It's best to use Glen L's system to post pictures. They stay put and easy to use.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Stevel
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Location: Tulsa oklahoma

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:19 pm

Plans are here! So after reviewing the plans, is there any way to attach the building form to the garage floor instead of drilling a hole in the concrete and bolting it down?

My first thought was carpet tape?

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Roberta
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Roberta » Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:34 pm

I don't think you have to anchor to the floor. Mark where the legs touch the floor and make sure to keep it in the spots once you level the form. I never anchored mine. The weight of all the wood will keep it in place.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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hoodman
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Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by hoodman » Wed Aug 01, 2018 3:01 pm

You could probably epoxy it down or maybe construction adhesive or something. I think I used a total of three sleeve anchors when I attached mine to the floor. As much pushing and pulling as I did on mine I know it would have slid around on me if it was not attached.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

joshuab
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by joshuab » Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:35 pm

Roberta wrote:I don't think you have to anchor to the floor. Mark where the legs touch the floor and make sure to keep it in the spots once you level the form. I never anchored mine. The weight of all the wood will keep it in place.

Roberta
Same here, marked the floor with a sharpie, no anchors
I cut twice and it's still too short :mrgreen:

TomB
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Location: Holland, MI

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by TomB » Wed Aug 01, 2018 5:42 pm

I marked my floor, no anchors, it didn't shift. If you're worried, add a few dabs of latex caulk and scrape it off after.

Tom

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by BarnacleMike » Thu Aug 02, 2018 5:55 am

Same here.

With my Utility, I over-built the construction form (it was VERY heavy). I marked the positions on the floor. Over the course of the build, yes it did move slightly. It wasn't a problem. My Zip form isn't anchored to the floor, either.

One alternative I considered (but abandoned) was to put 3/4" plywood sheets down on the floor, and anchor the form to the plywood. In the end, I felt it wasn't necessary.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Stevel
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Location: Tulsa oklahoma

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Fri Aug 03, 2018 1:41 pm

The building frame has begun
Last edited by Stevel on Fri Aug 03, 2018 2:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Stevel
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Fri Aug 03, 2018 1:45 pm

:D

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by BarnacleMike » Fri Aug 03, 2018 3:43 pm

Awesome!

Take your time.... Accuracy of the construction form is very important. You don’t want to rush it.

Congratulations on your start!
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Stevel
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Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2018 2:13 pm
Location: Tulsa oklahoma

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Mon Aug 06, 2018 9:03 am

Building frame almost done just have to notch it .. what’s the best method for cutting the notches for the frames?

Also on the frames the gussets do they have to be marine grade plywood? I’m asking because in order to source my marine grade plywood I’m going to have to get it freighted in .. best to buy it all at once one huge expense at once

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Roberta
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Roberta » Mon Aug 06, 2018 9:17 am

I used a Japanese pull saw to cut notches. You can make multiple cuts and break the pieces out with a screw driver and then clean the notches out with a sharp chisel. Wait on the notches until you are ready to lay in the shears and chines so you can angle them based on the direction that the longitudinals bend.

I would get marine plywood. You will need it for the floor timbers anyway and some will be below the water line and need to be waterproof glue.

Roberta
Attachments
fairing chines 012.JPG
Example of how a chine notch might be angled based on the position of the frame in relation to the chine.
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Bill Edmundson » Mon Aug 06, 2018 9:26 am

Steve

I bought all my marine ply from Homestead for the Bartender. All at one shot. I think it was 34 sheets at a 15% discount. I had it shipped to a Birmingham terminal where I picked it up.

http://www.marine-plywood.us/

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Stevel
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Location: Tulsa oklahoma

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Tue Aug 07, 2018 7:38 pm

So I’m a little confused about modifying the transom to accept a 20” motor shaft. Do you simply add 5 inches to the center motor mount section ?

PeterG
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by PeterG » Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:44 pm

You could add about 5 inches up from where the original motor cutout edge would be. You might get a more accurate edge height if you lay it out full scale from the plans. Don't forget that you will have the bottom plywood thickness at the bottom edge of the transom when measuring for the 20 inch height. Also since the transom tilts aft at an angle, the measurement along the transom surface will be slightly more than 20 inches, something like 20 1/8 inches including the bottom plywood thickness.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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