Stephens Zip

Outboard designs up to 14'

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by BarnacleMike » Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:08 am

Congratulations, Steve! You're well on the way.

Have you gotten some wood for the frames yet?
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Stevel
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Sat Aug 25, 2018 11:15 am

Plywood is coming this week!!

So what is the best method to transferring the pattern to the hard wood? I understand that transferring the patterns to plywood and use that as a template to assemble the frames on.

Here is my thought:
Transfer the pattern to 1/2 mdf - cut out and sand to the lines.. and use those as a router template with a flush trim bit to create the hardwood frames and gussets. Am I over thinking this?

Attached you will see my shop (its a bit of a mess - had to shove everything in that little corner to make room for the zip) and building space for the zip as well as the completed frame
Attachments
IMG-1916.JPG
IMG-1915.JPG
IMG-1913.JPG

neel thompson
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by neel thompson » Sat Aug 25, 2018 11:36 am

Steve.…. That is the way I do it. Make your patterns as accurately as possible and then use double sided carpet tape to hold the pattern to whatever hardwood you are using for your frames. Then run it through the router. A router table works best for this. If you look at my posts here on the forum (Neel's Palm Beach 22 Build) under power boats, you will be able to follow how I did my frames. I used 1/4" underlayment to make the patterns.

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by DrBryanJ » Sat Aug 25, 2018 2:00 pm

Steve, I also made templates with hardboard. I don't have a router table, so I used a hand held router. Worked great.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

Stevel
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Sat Aug 25, 2018 2:44 pm

What would you all suggest doing when cutting out the transom? I think I remember people saying it’s best to cut the transom bottom and sides 1/4” wider than the plans and cut the angle later..

The way I can se doing this is using a compass set to 1/4”and trace along the pattern, does that seem fesiable ?

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by BarnacleMike » Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:32 pm

I traced the transom as-is, onto the plywood. Then, I drew an additional “cut” line on the wood, approximately 1/8” beyond the plan lines.

Then, I did the same for the transom frame parts, extending the “cut” line 1/4” along the outer edges.

I’d recommend tracing the lines for the frame parts onto the plywood when you draw the transom. This will give you reference lines for alignment of the frame parts during assembly.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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hoodman
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by hoodman » Sun Aug 26, 2018 4:50 am

My transom WAS my frame assembly table. It worked out really well. You can make patterns if you want but I traced the paper patterns directly on to my framing wood.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

Stevel
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Sat Sep 01, 2018 9:41 am

Do you halflap the frame pieces over each other when the two meet?

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hoodman
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by hoodman » Sat Sep 01, 2018 9:49 am

Stevel wrote:Do you halflap the frame pieces over each other when the two meet?
You don't need to with the plywood gussets.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by BarnacleMike » Sat Sep 01, 2018 4:39 pm

Matt’s right. It’s also up to you, as far as how you want to build the frames. Did you read the Boatbuilding With Plywood book?

Some builders HAVE used half-lap joints, although it’s not necessary.

Most builders seem to use double-gussetted butt joints, and this seems to be the preferred method.

You can also use lap joints with single plywood gussetts. This is the method I am using.

All of these methods work for frame construction.

Go with whatever you’re comfortable with. I chose single-gusset lap joints because I’m not very good at carpentry, and it seemed easier to me.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sat Sep 01, 2018 5:50 pm

I was a structural engineer. The double gusset is the strongest. If you do the lap with double gusset even better.
Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Stevel
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Sun Sep 02, 2018 2:05 pm

So I have read a decent discussion about the number of battens on several peoples build threads. The plans simply state if you have more power a third batten is optional. I would love to build the boat to accommodate a 40hp 4 stroke. Would this dictate a "more power " requirement for three battens on either side for a more rigid hull? How did you end up spacing yours mike?

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by BarnacleMike » Sun Sep 02, 2018 6:57 pm

Mine are spaced like this:

7 inches from the centerline of the keel to the centerline of the inner batten.
6 inches from the centerline of the inner batten to the centerline of the middle batten.
6 inches from the centerline of the middle batten to the centerline of the outer batten.

The battens on my boat are 2-1/4" inches wide.

If you look at the earlier posts on my Zip thread, GDCarpenter and BJFrater also gave some input on their 3-batten spacing on their zips.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Stevel
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Location: Tulsa oklahoma

Re: Stephens Zip

Post by Stevel » Wed Sep 05, 2018 8:40 pm

So I am trying to decide on which route to take with the transom. I am pretty sure I would like a 45 Honda 4 stroke if I can get my hands on one.. that means that I need to modify the transom cut out for the engine shaft.

I have drafted two different shapes and wanted to see what you all think. I am wondering if they would work and if so which one would work better..

Option 1: creates a new horizontal line from the corner of the sheer to the opposite corner of the sheer. It does raise the cut out shape exactly 5 inches when it gets there

Option 2: is to just raise the cutout shape 5" and transition back down to the original lines

Ill post the pictures for a visual.
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Capture.PNG

PeterG
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Re: Stephens Zip

Post by PeterG » Wed Sep 05, 2018 9:34 pm

Both are very good ideas. One question to ask yourself is how the deck would fair into the transom. Understanding there is the cutout in front of the outboard, but the way the deck fairs from the transom to the next frame forward will change if you use option 1. Option 2 will not affect the design of the deck meeting the transom, you build it per plan. I recommend option 2, it's easier. BUT, it's your boat!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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