Minnesota Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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brockj
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Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thank you JimmY, did run into a bit of a snag with the keel not sitting flat on Frame 1, so I have had to make some adjustments. This has set me back a little bit but easier to correct now then later.

brockj
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Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Been a little bit since I posted, but I have made some progress. Fixed the issues with the keel, that was a bit of a back and forth. Progressed on to the sheer based on others recommendations. Snapped one and cracked another before I decided to try the soaking method, made a big difference. Soaked each sheer for about 24 hours then clamped into place to dry:
IMG_6461.JPG
After getting the first lamination glued up I started looking at the lines for the chines. I have been reading a ton of forum posts as well as going over and over the Boatbuilding with Plywood book, and while I think I understand the concepts, the chines just don't seem to want to match what I read. I am aware I need to notch Frame 2 on the forward portion to allow the chine to sit flat against the frame, but I am not sure I am doing it right. I am using some block to ensure I have the correct angle on the forward portion of the chine as it lays against the sheer, and I think it is close:
IMG_6464.jpg
Based on the angles (if they are correct) I may have removed too much of the frame:
IMG_6467.jpg
I am doing my chine in 2 laminations to ensure it is easy enough to bend, which is seems to be. I know others have mentioned using chine blocking, which I am not opposed to, either way I want to make sure I am coming across at the correct angle.

Hercdrvr
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Hercdrvr »

You might want to adjust the notch in the frame so the chine lays flatter across the notch, it doesn’t have to be perfect. Good luck getting the chine to twist enough for the fairing process. I, like many others, had to add material forward of the transition joint to make it fair nicely.
Hope this helps,
Matt B
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JimmY
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

When you start fairing, you will want to leave the rear edge of frame 2 cut per the plans. The forward edge of the frame will be faired and angled in to follow the lines of the sheers and chines. So, when working on the notches for the chines you want to angle the notch in to follow the chine. At the rear edge of the frame, the notch should be just deep enough for the fully laminated chine to sit flush with the frame. As far as the angle of the chine to sit fair with the sheer, the clamp and board you are using will help set that. You can add spacers between the sheer and the board to help get the twist that you need.

Like Herc wrote, you will want the chine to sit flat in the notch so there is no sharp stress point that could cause it to crack.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by BarnacleMike »

brockj wrote:
Mon Dec 09, 2019 10:47 am

Based on the angles (if they are correct) I may have removed too much of the frame:
IMG_6467.jpg
You have not removed too much of the frame. In fact, you're going to have to remove more. As Hercdrvr mentioned, you need to widen the notch just enough for the full width of the chine to fit in there. And, to basically re-word what Jimmy said, you're going to have to remove the FORWARD part of the frame in that notch until the inside of the chine makes full contact with the frame as it passes through.

The notch needs to be at a fore-to-aft angle to match the curvature of the chine.

Here's a photo to basically show what you're after. This is the equivalent notch in a Zip, while still in the process of fairing. As you can see, I laminated my chines also... and I'm happy I did.

Image
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!

brockj
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Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Good morning all! I wanted to provide an update as I have been making progress over the holiday week. I was so hesitant to jump in on the chines, but decided to take the plunge. I had done it as laminations, and got each side on. Before I added the second lamination I noticed an issue at the connection on Frame 1, so I corrected that and yesterday finished the second lamination on the final side. I decided not to go with a chineblock as I was having an issue figuring out how to make it fit, and while I think it would have made it easier, as a lamination I was able to get the connection at the stem pretty dang tight with a single screw and some clamps. During glue-up I clamped 2-3 boards from the chine down to the sheer to help ensure the twist was correct (as seen in a previous photo I posted), but I noticed after the glue set, some of the twist went back. I tried again with the second lamination and am still noticing a slight loss in twist mid-way between the chine/stem connection and frame 2, at both ends of that section the twist appears correct. I know others have added a lamination build up, so I think I might do that in this section. Otherwise I just need to glue the battens down and begin fairing! If I remember to bring my phone out I will try and grab some pictures to show what I am trying to describe.

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mrintense
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by mrintense »

Good luck with the fairing. I mean that in a good way. It's a process and just take your time. And if something starts to look odd, stop and re-evaluate. If things get a bit off, you can almost certainly correct it.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

brockj
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Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Finally got out to begin fairing and am wondering if I should add another lamination? The one side did not twist back quite as bad:
36A4D55F-AA52-4585-9EDF-FE390FAEE9DD.jpeg
The other side:
4F8C7186-C495-4747-B00F-6C01CFC198B5.jpeg
I am thinking I should probably add a lamination to the side in the second photo, but what about the first photo?

JimmY
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

Hi Brock,

Adding a thin shim would not be bad. The sheers forward of frame 2 will pretty much end up with a triangle cross section, so that first photo looks almost perfect. Also, double check the side to side measurements on the chine between frame 2 and the breasthook, this may help you figure out if you need a shim on both sides or just one. It could be that the first photo the chine is twisted fine but is closer to the stem, and in the second photo the chine could be bowed out more but twisted less.

I drew a line on the chine from frame 2 to the stem to split it in two, the upper part faired to the keel/stem and the lower part faired to the sheer. If you fair the keel/stem/chine first, then you would just need to laminate a thin piece on the lower half of the chine which may be less work.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by BarnacleMike »

This is so common, it should really just become part of the instructions imho.

Brock, yes I'd add an additional shim (lamination) on that chine curve so you've got more to work with on getting the chine-to-sheer angle.

Look at it this way... in addition to achieving a good fit for the planking, you're going to wind up with a stronger chine, too. It's really a win-win.

Your Squirt is coming along beautifully.
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!

brockj
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Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Been trying to make progress, but I think I am just thinking too much about fairing. I seem to get hung up on small details, so I have tried taking little stabs, but I just seem to be struggling. I started at the stern, on the bottom and made it up to frame 2 (forward most frame), from there it seemed the RABL method would be easy, but the stem to chine...I just can't seem to get the angle right. I have spent about 2 hours today looking at blog posts, forum posts trying to see how others have done, but seems most people are getting this quicker than I am and not describing it.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Spend your 2 hours looking at your boat, not post. You will see the answer. You have the answer.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Hercdrvr
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Hercdrvr »

Hold Something like a yard stick up to the chine and sheer, if it doesn’t lay flat then keep fairing. It’s no different than nailing pickets to a fence, it’s just that the frame of our fence curves and twists.
Once the light bulb pops on, that RABL method will seem like a complicated way of accomplishing a simple task.

Only my experience,
Matt B

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by DrBryanJ »

I like it!
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

brockj
Posts: 28
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thanks for the reply's. I spent about 6 hours Sunday working on fairing, I took my plywood and cut a 20" x 4' section to have a slightly large piece to use for testing as I am fairing, I think that helped. I ended up taking a bit more out of the chine on the top (bottom panel side). I knew the sheer ended up being triangle like, didn't think the chine would as much as well. I will get some pictures posted, just want to make sure I have enough chine for the side panel the glue/nail to.

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