Minnesota Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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JimmY
Posts: 1071
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

Hi Brock,

Looking good, you are now a professional fiber glasser.

I used WR-LPU since I was painting in the basement and the low odor and water clean up was necessary. This worked well with roll and tip, and could be sanded and buffed to a glossy finish, and can also be sprayed. This is a top, above the waterline paint, but if you are keeping it on a lift, it should not be a problem. I'm going on 3 years on a lift with no issues.

If you are keeping it in the water for an extended time, you will need a marine "bottom" paint. I didn't research these since most are solvent based and wouldn't meet my needs.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thank you very much for the info Jimmy. I have been often referring back to your build in the forum for guidance. I was going through yours again today and starting to plan for after the flip, which steering did you pick? I believe it was the teleflex, but was it the SS141? Glen L seems to just have the standard rotary, but was wondering your thoughts on the system you picked, as well as they length of cable you went with.

As for the paint, haven't made up my mind yet. I can open up the doors to my "shop" so I can get good ventilation, but I really don't plan on having the boat in the water overnight. I wonder, are the anti-fouling bottom paints any easier to apply? Seems like it was a bit of an exercise with the topside paint. If i do go that route, I may consider a sprayer as was recommended.

JimmY
Posts: 1071
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

I used the SS14114 which is 14' long. This cable can't make the bend directly from the dashboard to behind the carling, so you end up looping it under the front deck and then down the side. There should be some photos of my installation in the build thread.

If you end up spraying, make sure to buy enough paint. I rolled and tipped many coats on the bottom (red and clear) with much less than a quart. I tried spraying the deck (after I had moved it to the garage), and went through a quart with 2 or 3 coats. The point being, if you plan to wet sand and buff out the paint you need to build up a lot of coats, so they can be knocked down flat. Spraying wastes a lot of material, but if you are good at spraying you may be able to get a smoother result that can be buffed out with less sanding.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thanks for the info on the difference with painting versus spraying. I am going to guess I am not a good sprayer, but being that I have never done it I can't say for certain! Maybe I will find out I have a hidden skill :lol:

As for the steering solution, are you happy with the SS14114? I have heard some people complain about slop in the middle on the teleflex rotary, have you noticed that on the rack steering system?

Hercdrvr
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Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Hercdrvr »

I used topside paint on my Squirt bottom, it’s rarely in the water more than 2 days. My experience is 3 days, that’s when slime starts to grow on a boat without anti fouling bottom paint.
A Squirt is so low to the water it doesn’t show much side paint so I just rolled and tipped my paint job. It looks OK, in the picture you can see how the light shows the brush marks and orange peel.
Nice work on your glass job, looks good.
Matt B
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Last edited by Hercdrvr on Thu Jun 11, 2020 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

JimmY
Posts: 1071
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

There is a bit of slop in the steering around center, but some of that is do to my custom mount at the transom which has a wider angle from the end of the cable to the front of the motor. My vintage motor doesn't have a built in mount for the steering cable. It is not a problem at speed, only when maneuvering at low speeds. I've figured it out, and you just need a light touch. If I let someone else idle around they typically over correct and look like a drunk driver. I think they call this character. :)

If you go with another system, use a garden hose to figure out the length you need.

Spraying is not that hard, you just need light coats to prevent runs. If you are happy like Herc with a bit of orange peel it will be pretty easy and a quart of clear will get you 2 to 3 coats on the bottom over any color. If you want the paint to look like your car, it will take some work, and since you will be sanding anyhow roll and tip will use less material. With the WR-LPU you can apply a coat every 30 minutes or so and can build up 8 coats with a quart in a few hours and be ready to wet sand the next day. Spraying would need twice as much paint to get 8 coats
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thanks for all the advice, I have pretty much settled on wr-lpu for the paint. From what I have seen the yacht primer is recommended. Would the white yacht primer be able to work for a boot stripe? My plan is to go with Shaw Blue for the bottom and I would like a one inch (or so) boot stripe purely for aesthetics. Could I do a few coats for the bottom and then tape up an inch or so for the blue to create the white stripe, or is that something I should do after the fact?

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DrBryanJ
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Location: Pompton Plains, NJ

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by DrBryanJ »

I don't know if the primer would work or not. They sell little sample jars for 6 bucks, that should be enough for a boot stripehttps://www.systemthree.com/products/wr ... c5EALw_wcB
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

brockj
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Well the heat has slowed me down a bit, but has not stopped me completely. I decided to move on to paint, and boy was this satisfying! Right now 4 coats of primer and in my 3 day wait before sanding, then if all is well on to blue.
IMG_7035.JPG
I have been seeing various recommendations for clear, and I guess I am not sure where to go next. I know I need a UV blocking finish over the epoxy, and there are many opinions on which to go with. Being that I am going with System Three WR-LPU Shaw Blue for the bottom paint (and Yacht Primer for the primer), does the WR-LPU Clear Gloss have the UV inhibitors needed? For the bottom I used just under a quart for 4 coats on the bottom. I was planning on a quart for the blue (haven't ordered yet), but for clear since I will be doing sides and top (eventually) I am guessing I will probably need more like a gallon? Any recommendations from other Squirt builders on quantities needed?

JimmY
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Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

Yes, "WR-LPU contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, depending on exposure." I'm going on 3 years with that finish and it is holding up well. I'm getting a few scraps and scratches, and I will probably freshen it up in a few years. My boat is on a lift at the lake from May through September, under an off the shelf boat cover. It may be out in the sun for a day or two every weekend and a few hours in the evenings. The cover doesn't get all the way down the sides and is probably not 100% UV protection, and I don't really notice a big difference between the sides and deck. I plan to make a custom cover this fall that will protect the sides better and generally fit better than the generic 12'-14' boat cover.

I used 1 Qt on the bottom, tried to spray another quart on the deck, and then rolled and tipped a 3rd quart on the deck before sanding and polishing. If I hadn't tried to spray, I probably could have gotten by with 2 quarts total to clear the hull. If you are spraying, go with a gallon.

As you know WR-LPU is a top coat meant for above the water line, but it will handle a day or two in the water. Your mileage may vary.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thanks Jim. I saw you got 5 coats in just under a quart to my 4, possibly different rollers absorbing, possibly going on a little thicker, regardless, it is good to know I will need at least two quarts. Being that, I might go straight for the gallon. Cost wise I am not that much farther behind with a gallon, and if I do need to dip into a third, I will be ahead. Anyone know how well the WR-LPU stores?

I was quite happy with how the yacht primer went on. I rolled and tipped with a synthetic brush that I kept moist with water. Jim, I know you worked through some issues, any quick tips for the paint? My plan is to use the same approach as with the primer. The humidity has been pretty consistent so far this summer so I think that is working to my advantage for the primer. I did not see anything on the can about thinning before applying (possibly another reason I used a little more) so I just mixed and rolled. As I mentioned, with the damp brush for tipping I didn't really run into too many issues with the paint smearing/pulling as I was tipping.

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DrBryanJ
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Location: Pompton Plains, NJ

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by DrBryanJ »

The written instructions for wr-lpu say to thin paint by 5 to 10% with water when rolling and tipping.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1000/ ... 3743370619
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

JimmY
Posts: 1071
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

+1 on what Bryan said. I thinned the paint with water at 10% or more. Just watch for runs on the sides. The bottom primer looks great, you should have no issues with the gloss.

No sure how WR-LPU stores, but Glen L sells stop-loss bags and I had some clear PU in for a couple of years with no issues.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thank you guys both for the tips, I re-read that a couple times because I thought I was missing something, but it is just for paint, not the primer that reduction is necessary for rolling/tipping. I will definitely keep that in mind.

My plan was to wait the 72 hours after the final coat of primer to do a light sanding in preparation for wr-lpu paint (using 220/320). It states 4-6 hours after first coat, is advisable to allow that between each coat? Being that I was going with a quart I was anticipating 4-5 coats depending on how it covers as that should use most if not all of the paint.

Glad to know the wr-lpu will last a couple years, I figure if I go with a gallon, if I need to touch up any spots or need to another coat a year or two later it should be good. Again, really appreciate the feedback. Getting so close to the flip!

brockj
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

This weekend I started working on the WR-LPU Shaw Blue paint, I was pretty nervous, even at the outset of the 3rd coat, but after that coat I am now feeling a little better. I started by thinning the paint per the instructions at 10% for roll and tip, it way to watery. For the 2nd and 3rd coats I reduced that to 5% and it went much better.

1st Coat:
IMG_7068.JPG
IMG_7069.JPG
3rd Coat (right after applying):
IMG_7072.JPG
Is this pretty common for rolling and tipping or have I been doing something wrong?

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