Where to start...

upspirate · **Posted:** Mon Oct 26, 2009 7:51 pm

looks good! Yea!!!

Iggy · **Posted:** Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:56 am

Well.. after thinking about the various ways I wanted to mark/trace the frame sections onto my lumber, I actually got started last night after the kids where in bed. I had the lumber planed before they shipped it, and one edge is squared off straight, so I decided to use that edge for the setup level on my lower frame sections. For the rest if the lumbers 'width' I am fitting up the most optimal use for the frame sides or top sections, maximizing the usage while keeping the grain in the proper orientation.

I cut a 1/4 x 1/4" x 6' long flexible section out of a spruce stud to use as a 'curve' guide for the frame sections. I took the full scale half-plan, lined up the setup level straight section, then use long/thin finishing nails through the pattern at the corners and mid-way along the curve. I punched a few 'sighting' holes along the lines so I could mark the material below. Before I flipped the plans, I took a sheet of carbon paper and placed it face-up under the half plans and traced the critical lines at the corners and mid-section of curves so that it marked the mirror image on the under side of the plans. I then flipped the plans over, used the guide holes can carbon-transferred outlines to line up the second half along the 'mirror' line, then tapped in finishing nails at the corners and mid-section and lifted the plans off the lumber.

I then used the flexible 1/4" guide I built and lined it up with the finishing nails and flexed it evenly to form the curve. I used a 2nd row of finishing nails behind the flexible 1/4" guide to hold it in place while I marked the curve, making it easier on the hands and keeping it in place while my pencil pressed against it slighly.

I was a little slow at the start, taking my time, but by the 2nd section I had all my tools, nails, marking process figured out and started to pick up steam.

I hope to mark more frames tonight and maybe start cutting tomorrow. I am taking my time to get the cuts properly marked and I will spend as much time as it takes to get it cut properly. I want a good start to this project... so I have less to correct later on.

I'll try to remember to take a picture of the process tonight if I can. I am sure there are other techniques you can use, but this one seems to work for me.

BayouBengal · **Posted:** Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:06 am

Exciting Times, aren't they Iggy.

Do you have a website set up for your build, if so, please pass along the web address. If not, there are several free providers including zoomshare.com and blogspot.com.

Iggy · **Posted:** Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:32 am

I am a web site programmer. I owned a couple database-driven web site companies for seven years... everything from forums to full e-commerce chart systems.. you name it.. all of them included a user-adminstrator area that would let the site owner modify and update their own website. I got out of it full time.. it was a real time sink.. but I still do it off an on, moonlighting contracts here and there.. in fact I am just publishing a site that I took on specifically to pay for the lumber.

http://www.greatcampingspots.com is one of my old sites.. its still working 10 years after I built it.

Ironically, like a mechanics personal car.. I don't spend a lot of time doing my own personal websites. I just get too tired of doing it that I don't have the energy to work on my own.

So.. I've been using this thread as my personal 'build' journal. I am hosting the images one of the sites I still manage for the links for now.

I will eventually put everything together in a more organized format like you did Jeff (and many other builders).. but I am still at the early stages of my 'photo' compilation.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:16 am

We put in about 12 hours on the boat this weekend.. it was really a great feeling to finally get going on this project. I finished marking all my frame components and it used up about 29 boardfeet of material (assuming I don't have a mis-cut). I was able to get everything on a 8", 9" & 10" x 13' boards except about 36" x 3" section where I just couldn't make fit due to some width variance in the board at the center. Still, I am 'on budget' for lumber usage so far.

My wife gave me a hand yesterday as well, using the Jig saw to cut down the 13' lumber sections between the frames so they are easier to manage and can be put through the band saw (if I get it working). Our Jig saw works fine on the cross-grain cut, but has a real hard time cutting with the grain. I bought the highest quality saw blade I could get, and its staying pretty vertical and straight, but as soon as I go with the grain I have to slow it down by almost half.

I also unpacked the Ryobi 9" band saw and just did a few 'test' cuts on some softer lumber and still need to fiddle with the belt tension and alignment. I did do a test cut on a extra piece of 7/8" mahogany, and its showing promise, but still need to lean how to set the blade properly. Its using the 1/4" 'general' purpose blade it came with. I decided to keep the band saw even if I can't get it working for the hardwood.. I still do plenty of 'softwood' projects that would make it worthwhile. Its pretty close now.. I have a feeling I just need to do a few adjustments and I will at least be able to do the 1" cuts.. not sure yet about the 2" cuts (double thickness) for the sides.

I also pulled out my 3/4" plywood and marked off my transom. I added 3/8" to the bottom lenght of the transom plans and bottom lumber to account for the 'angle' cut I wil need to do. I plan on screwing the transom and lumber frame components together and cutting the bottom angle at the same time for both, then unscrewing them to cut out the angled notches for the sheer, chine and battens, then epoxy & rescrew them together.

Its been a little bit slower than it could have been as I spent a few hours setting up my shop with a work bench and the band saw. And near the end of the day my body is reminding me of the effects of being a 'desk jockey' at work... I don't typically spend five or more hours on my feet during the day. I still need to get myself in 'shop shape' if you know what I mean.

I took a few pictures of my frame section marking technique, I will post them a little later on. I ended up making a 1/8" x 1/4" square guide for the really tight curves on the transom side... I imagine its going to be a lot of 'fun' bending the 1/4" mahagany plywood around that curve.. my 1/4" x 1/4" guide threatened to snap when I tried it.

I need more clamps!

AaronStJ · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:22 pm

Iggy wrote:

And near the end of the day my body is reminding me of the effects of being a 'desk jockey' at work... I don't typically spend five or more hours on my feet during the day. I still need to get myself in 'shop shape' if you know what I mean.

No kidding! I'm also a software engineer by trade, and working in the shop is definitely kicking my butt. Aside from the sore muscles and back, my hands are what's giving me the most trouble. They're constantly covered in nicks and scrapes these days. I'm sure they'll toughen up. But in the meantime, ouch.

BayouBengal · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:18 pm

I look forward to following your progress here on the forum, Iggy.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:20 pm

You bet Aaron.. my hands are just rough now, and I think the Sapele Mahogany has a secret plot to slowly take over my body one sliver at time. My skin is naturally pretty tough, and my hands are usually pretty strong.. but this 'boatbuilding' stuff takes it to a new level.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:23 pm

Oh.. I also forgot to mention... I snuck back home to grab something during my lunch break and just couldn't resist tinkering with the Band saw a little when I opened the garage door. I found a few adjustments I was unaware of (being a rookie band saw user) and I did a quick test cut after and I think I got it working properly now.

I will test with a double thickness (2") but based on other customer/woodworker reviews of this model, it should manage up to 3" with good cuts.

upspirate · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:36 am

iggy,I think there was a post in the tool section that listed a good book on setting up and using a band saw...I believe Leakcheck said it was good.

Iggy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:28 am

More slivers...

I setup the band saw again, stacked the two 'side' pieces from Frame 4 together and cut the 1 3/4" thick (7/8"x2) pieces of lumber at the same time. Cross grain it cuts really nice.. but cutting with the grain is a little bit more of a challenge. I can get a fairly smooth cut for the most part, but it seems to like to 'jump' the grains sometimes. I had the exact same issue with my jig saw.

I found the thinner 7/8" cuts a bit harder to keep 'on line' than the thicker 1 3/4" cuts.. I wonder if its because the two pieces I strapped together don't have identical grains and keeps the blade from 'skipping' as much.

I also cut out my transom from the 3/4" plywood. I am not sure which wood is harder to cut.. 7/8" lumber or 3/4" plywood... they both take some energy to feed throught he blade. Nothing excessive, just a good steady push. For a guy used to soft spruce and pine.. its a different feeling.

Last night I finished after T cut the sides, bottoms and floor timber on frame 4, the sides on frame 1 and the transom plywood. I marked the two stem pieces also. I will finish marking the brestnook and chine blocking and transom knee on my plywood tonight, and see if I can cut a few more frame pieces and get a little smoother cuts.

billy c · **Posted:** Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:03 pm

hi Ian-
if you are trying to use the blade you got with the bandsaw, chances are good that it is the problem. if the set of the teeth are off and/or it is not clearing the kerf out as you cut any time you rip lumber you are going to have runout problems. crosscut is less fussy as you have noted.
good blades are something on the idea of this:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004811/2004811.aspx
the fewer tpi the better if you are planning on resawing lumber in addition to cutting out your frames.
-Billy

upspirate · **Posted:** Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:18 pm

Leakcheck lists two books in this thread on bandsaws;

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4499&start=0

billy c · **Posted:** Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:27 pm

....change the blade
save the book money for something else

Iggy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:29 pm

I was considering getting another higher quality blade to see how it might work. Replacing the blade seems relatively straightforward from the instructions.

Stock blade quality was the 1 negative comment on the reviews for this band saw. 1/4" @ 6tpi is what I have now, do I get more tpi or just get the same but a better quality blade?

I am cutting 'wide' of the line, but the odd 'skip' has made it on or just a touch inside. Part of the problem was my inexperience with feeding the material properly.. I made a rookiee mistake with focusing on where the bade was instead of where it was aiming for.

Glen-L.com

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