Page 1 of 1
Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 5:40 pm
I have started to do the faring. I started at frame 2 and am working back towards the transom. everything is ok between frame 4and 2. when I go beond frame 2 it seems that more wood has to come off of the chine height,could this be ok.
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:11 am
It could be OK. What boat you working on? On the flying saucer this was what I had to do. Saucer is short version of zip.
Did you look at customer photos for your boat?
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:43 am
I am working on a Zip. I have looked at other pics of the same boat and it is really hard to tell if is different
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:58 am
Photos would help show for sure, but I think you could be ok. I seem to remember that both the chine and sheer kind of twist back over at the transom end a bit on the Zip, which is how it gets its good shape, so yes, a bit more material has to come off. As long as there is enough material left to hold everything at the end of it, you should be fine (and if not, you can always glue material in place!)
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:05 am
George is correct. Both the chine and sheer twist into position on the Zip's transom. As I recall, we had to remove very little material on the sides, but significantly more on the top and bottom. It will seem a little scary because you think you're removing a lot of wood, but there will be plenty left behind.
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 1:25 pm
Thanks to all. It seem that geln l could have added a little mor info in their boat building book.
Thankfully we have a forum
A boat is a hole in the water into which you throw money.
A wise man told me after he gave me his boat.
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 1:28 pm
If in the faring process I take to much off and I want to put something there. Could I mix some epoxy with a filler added and repair that area with it. Then sand fair.
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 1:57 pm
Yes yes yes. Wood is best, but epoxy plus filler/sawdust is even tougher (even if it's harder to sand)!
I wrote a lot more on the subject a moment ago but the forum crapped out on me and now I am drowning my sorrows after the Irish opened a tin of whoopass on us in the 6 Nations Rugby (a bit like America Football but without all the armour suits, stoppages, and you can only pass the ball backwards).
Do not dispare...there's little that epoxy and filler can't fix (or alcohol)!
Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 2:12 am
GeorgeD wrote:Do not dispare...there's little that epoxy and filler can't fix (or alcohol).
Amen to that!
...On both accounts.
Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 1:56 pm
I have gotten the chine faired from the transom forward to frame 4 and a little past.
Now I am wondering how far past frame 4 does the butt joint start and the lap joint stop. have looked at pictures of peoples boat blogs and it is hard to tell.
Is there more faring that needs to be done to the kell at that point.
Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 2:28 pm
The fairing needs to be done all the way.
The position of the joint doesn't have any affect on the fairing....you fair the chines and keel the same for the lapped area,and the butted area.
The transition joint is just an arbitrary spot where the planking goes from lapping to butt
Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 7:47 am
Here I have posted some pictures of the faring I have done so far. Do they look ok.
Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 7:56 am
More pictures. Jeff
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 6:44 am
Just make sure your fairing towards the stem is only on half the board, so you will have some place for screws on both planking.