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So,started building a 1/4 scale Saucer and have cut the 1/4 scale parts with my bandsaw. Now its the fine work time and thinking about the full size build. Drum sander? Belt 46' and 10" disk? Just thinking? What have you found that helps?
Randy

HELLO?? Anyone their????

So I am think a 12" bench disc sander ? I have a 3"x36" belt and have been using it alot with the 1/4 scale boat.

Ideas???

I used a sanding drum on a drill press to shape cut parts. I used a table saw to rip boards and a compund miter to cross cut and angle cut boards. A saber saw was used to rough cut shapes. I used a belt sander and hand power plane to shape shears and chines. Spring, pipe and various ratchet clamps were used to hold parts. A circular saw was used to rough cut some plywood. I also purchased a Ridgid Oscillating Belt/Spindle sander. If you get raw rough sized lumber, a planer is necessary. A hand plane is also helpful as are sanding blocks. A battery operated driver for screws is useful. Assorted bits and drills, sandpaper, and countersink bits. A dremmel tool with cut off wheels is helpful. A pull saw is nice for cutting notches in frames. A screw driver and hammer helps clear cut wood in notches. Sharp chisels help clean out the notches. A level to make sure the building form is level and to check building in progress. Chaulk line to square up the building frame. Measuring tools. These are all the things I used to build my Zip.

If you search the forum and look at the various builds, you will see many of these tools in action and get a good idea what is needed and how they are used.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Thanks Roberta!! Good info!
Randy

New tool! Man you will need to watch this sander! Can eat alot of wood!!!

It think it comes down more to what you are comfortable working with.

I have a table saw, bandsaw, compound mitresaw and scrollsaw - the bandsaw got the majority of the work.

In the portables - circular saw, jig saw, reciprocating saw - the jig saw was invaluable and could have done all the bandsaw work (for anyone with a strict tool budget) - the circular saw and a scarfing jig attachment was how I made my plywood scarfs - so in my case, this was a "must have".

A couple assorted hand saws may also make some aspects of the job easier - I used a flush cut saw (about 6" long, teeth on both sides) and a pull saw (about 24", fine teeth on one side, coarse on the other - Stanley makes both models and they are relatively inexpensive) extensively when fitting the chine and sheer - prefer these to normal handsaws because they allow a little more precise control - but a keyhole saw or coping saw probably would have worked fine in tight spots.

All my sanders are portable (if you don't count the drums on my drill press) - 21" belt, 5" disk, 1/3 sheet and 1/4 sheet - use all of them but if I could only have two it would be the belt sander and 1/4 sheet (or maybe the disk) - nope, "I" need them all .

Absolute must have is a portable planer - I have a 6 amp 3 1/4" model that saved hours (if not days) in the rough fairing. Additionally, if you use silicon-bronze fasteners, these planers will go right through them when fairing - it's a little tough on the blade, but it's not dangerous like hitting stainless steel. The portable planer can also be used for plywood scarfing in place of the circular saw/jig.

Also as noted, if you can get rough lumber at a significant discount, a planer (12-13") and possibly a jointer (even a benchtop 4" model) might well be worth the initial outlay (I'm building an (almost) 26 footer, so the difference in cost between rough and finished lumber when you are talking hundreds of board feet more than offset the cost of the tools).

A couple of good chisels, a wood rasp (or 4 or 5 - always putting them down and can't remember where ) and lots of clamps - F clamps, C clamps, clothespin style etc are also in order (if you think you have enough clamps, get double what you have and then you will only be a few "short").

Also a couple of drills - one corded and one cordless (or a couple of cordless with spare batteries) are very handy. Many screw holes should be piloted and it saves time if you aren't constantly swapping bits. I pilot and bore with the electric and have a dedicated cordless screw gun for all the screws (unless you are going for the West System method with zero fasteners in your build)...

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Graham

Yes, Plywood is "real" wood

A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it