Let's all discuss the tools here
Moderators: BruceDow, billy c
- Posts: 2448
- Joined: Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:59 pm
- Location: NH
Oyster wrote:Actually long boarding a surface for another layer with a board thats operated by air versus hand makes shorter work. The reason I replied with my alternative is that I also find that on a surface being prepared for topcoats, the wider width of the board does a finer job of fairing. Most of the airfiles recieves and uses a paper thats only 2 to three inch wide and the tool can dig or cut in the surface because its easier to rock or roll it as you push it especially on a diagonal or bias. The affects do not show as much under another layer such as a hardwood veneer unless the veneer is really thin. If this is the case, sometimes you may get a small void if your glue is not thickened enough.
no way on the final pass would you be running power. in fact if finished bright, you would be following grain direction of the mahogany with a variety of hand blocking all the way down to 220 to remove the finest visible cross grain scratches then back out to 120 or what ever is recommended for your paint surface.
- Posts: 3688
- Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:50 pm
- Location: Branson, MO
Wow - lot's of ideas. Ok, I have been using a combo of belt sander and mudhog for the laminations and getting very close. I know that the final finish layer will take my time, so I have opted to be satisfied if with these only between the layers and then "slopping" the thickened epoxy so that my plywood is 'floating'. I do not want any voids if I can help it.
I believe I am going to go the hand route for the final. I only have 125 hrs to date and applying my last plywood layer now. Sorry guys - I just work fast.
But I want to that deep fine finish when done so I will be spending a lot of slow time to make it right. I don't have that feel with equipment under hand. It is amazing how the hands that God gave us can feel even the slightest of deviations.
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2019 9:34 am
nice one it's good idea for longboard for me thanks
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2020 9:16 pm
billy c wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:52 am
tons of models out there from about $50 - $300 for the pneumatics. the one i eventually bought i borrowed the same model from my neighbor who owns an autobody shop. bought a cheap one (the price difference was too tantalizing but ok if you are planning never to use the tool again) that you had to wrestle with because of the poor action and always had my compressor running as it sucked up so much air to power, then bought what i should have in the first place with dust collection and made a big difference on my ol body and lungs. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hutchins ... dZViewItem
if you are really young and in shape (Like Dick Williams who also built a Belle Isle, board sand the whole thing by hand
You can make your own hand powered longboard for fine tuning. i made a few one being a flexible bottom so it could follow the contours and one dead flat for the flatter areas.
How lucky you had this neighbor. I'm still looking for parts for my car.