Glen-L.com

Hello, today I am fitting the CHINE LOG, and started at the TRANSOM. Quite a lot of material needed to come off where the LOG fastens to the TRANSON, so I took a 1" X 2" STRAIGHT board approx. 96" long and on one end duct taped a very coarse rasp to the board on the 2" side and at the end. I then laid the board in the cut outs for the CHINE in frames #1 & #2, then overlapping the TRANSOM by a couple inches I moved the board with file attached BACK & FORTH thus removing the material not needed. I kept a little pressure on the board so as to make certain such contacted the forward frame notches, and thus the result was a perfectly faired TRANSOM notch. Using a rasp by itself meant a rocking motion, where as the 96" board with rasp attached assured NO ROCKING.

I plan on doing more of this by using contact cement and gluing coarse sand paper on long boards that will overlap other frame members thus giving me a very natural contour, or fair.

This is NOT the TRICK OF THE WEEK, but a process that works for me.

Thanks for hearing me out.

Dale
Indy

Yep, even though I was shown as on line, my system did not pick up my name and showed me as a GUEST.

Sorry.

Dale
Indy

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I AM ALWAYS DOING THAT WHICH I CANNOT DO, IN ORDER TO LEARN HOW TO DO IT. ~ Pablo Picasso 1881 - 1973

For faring the chine and sheer clamp for the plywood hull I bolted a 30'' stick to the side of my Makita belt sander. The stick is parallel to the bottom pad and extends out in front of the sander. It keeps the sander at the same angle without rocking. If you are plaining off the sheer to the chine or the chine to the keel just let that stick ride out front on the next frame member. I hope that all seems clear.

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THE FRAUD WILL NOT GO AWAY..9-11 WAS AN INSIDE JOB...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZEvA8BCoBw

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r302 ... rd_photos/

Dale,

you can also purchase that self sticking long thin sandpaper from 3M, but it is probably cheaper to stick your own paper on yourself.

Steve