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There has been some discussion in the power boat area about launching and especially loading without dragging the boat on the bunks and damaging the bottom paint. Hopefully this can be helpful for somebody setting up a trailer. Here are some pictures of the setup I have that lets the boat float off, which is usually not a problem with most setups, but also can be floated on and hauled out without winching across the bunks. I have used it on ramps so shallow that to float the boat off I have had water up to the bottom of my truck doors, and one ramp was so steep that I will never go back there. But this setup worked great on both extremes. This is going on to the fifth season since finishing the boat with no damage to the original bottom paint. Hopefully I can explain this so that you can picture how this works. The trailer has regular bunks set up like most, but there are three areas that, while not unique, is different than some.


The first is the crash post at the front, I don’t know if there is a better name for this but that is what the manufacturer of this trailer calls it. It is hinged so it can swing forward out of the way so a cover can be put on for storage. The winch strap goes up over the cross member of the crash post and, in my case, hooks to the lifting eye. This part is important because while loading it lifts up on the bow instead of just pulling forward or even down. It could also hook to a bow eye then after the boat is out of the water change the position of the strap from over the top to directly to the bow eye to hold it down while going down the road. With this setup nothing touches the bow or the cutwater, just the rub rails on each side.


Next is the v- roller mounted down low and in the center. During loading, the trailer is deep enough in the water so that the boat floats over the bunks and the cutwater comes up against the v-roller. Then the strap is brought over the cross member and hooked to the lifting eye. As the boat is winched forward the bow rolls up the v- roller. I stop when I get to a mark on the strap. At this point it is set for going down the road . Now the boat is still floating over the bunks and the only contact is still just with the v-roller. As the trailer and boat are pulled up the ramp and the boat settles down onto the bunks, it pivots at the v- roller and the bow goes up to the crash post and lifts about a 1/2 inch off the v-roller.


Last is the rear side guides. They are about 4 foot long plastic pipes that slide loosely over steel tubes that roll. The plastic pipes are capped on the top so that they float up as the trailer goes deeper in the water. They are also angled in at the bottom so as the the boat is pulled out it is centered on the trailer. Without these it would be hard to keep the boat centered as you pull up the ramp.

After its out of the water there is no adjustment needed, I just strap down the back and its ready to go.

Rich

Interesting Rich. What length do you have your Monaco? My Riviera is 20'10". I have buried my bumper on my truck in the water to get her to float but to no avail. On steep ramps, ouchhhh.

But you have given me an idea.

_________________
Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Rear side guides....around here, we call them 'Goalposts' Yeah, they are a must have item.
That is a good looking trailer setup you have there.
I have bow-bunks and find that a good alternative also.

_________________
God Bless our Troops; especially our Snipers

Dave,
My Monaco is a standard 19' 4"

The boat is floating when the trailer fenders are about 3 or 4 inches under water. At that point on most normal ramps the rear tires on my truck are just at the water or into it a few inches and I can step out onto a dry ramp.

Ken,
I like "Goalposts" better.

Rick and all Monaco / Riviera builders
I am that stage now where the boat (Monaco) needs a trailer, but my biggest problem is when drafting up some trailer plans I find the overall trailer width is 2400mm (8 feet), unfortunately so is my garage doorway. As it would require considerable time and effort to widen the doorway I am looking at lifting the boat a little and moving the guards and wheels in under the boat about 50mm (2") each side. Trailer will have tandum axles on 14" wheels.
This would position the keel at the transom 600mm (24") above the ground and give a propeller clearance of approximately 225mm (9") which is 12" in diameter at this time.
I would be interested to hear from you and other Monaco / Riviera builders what keel height above the ground you have at the transom.
Also for launching what is the best angle of the keel in relation to the horizontal when on the trailer. Probably the best way to answer this is height of keel above the ground at transom compared to height of keel above the ground below frame #5.

ozzieboat

I am building the Lo Volt so I also have similar problems you have and want to float the boat on and off the trailer. What is your clearance between the prop and the ground. Since my boat is a displacement hull is extends almost 3 to 4 feel beyond the actual trailer on the bunks. The builder of the trailer will be at the first launch to make trailer adjustments.

Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.

Your boat is really beautiful,

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

Bob
No actual prop ground clearance exists at the moment as the boat is trailerless.
Safe prop clearance would be dependant on the size of the boat and the amount of boat overhang from the axle/s. For the Riviera and Monaco the overhang is approximately 5 feet so a minimum of 6 inches would be some where near the mark. In Australia nothing under the trailer, other than the axle/s can be less than 6 inches from the ground, so allowing for a prop/rudder guard that prop clearance may need to be increased to 7-8 inches.
My concern and request for info from Riviera and Monaco builders is how high above the ground are their boats and what is their boat attitude on the trailer.
ozzieboat

Ozzieboat:
I think the boat is currently to high and for good reason at this time. Will have to place it on the hitch and travel around and determine the clearance needed at the driveways and launch areas. It seems it will need to be a trial and determine experience before adjustments are made to the bunks. Your trailer thoughts and insight were helpful.

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

My problem is rudder clearance, not prop clearance. I have a steep down hill drive with a right turn down a steep hill. If I do it right, I have 1" clear. It scrapes if I don't.

I thinking of having a long drop hitch made just to get out. Then I'll stop and change to a road hitch.

Bill

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Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Ozzieboat,

Just checked my trailer and it only measures 2375mm ( 93.5 inches ) The boat sits about a half an inch inside the fenders and the chine is about 2 inches below the top of the fenders. The keel at the transom is about 23 inches above the ground.

Rich

Thanks Rick
Your info has again been helpful. My guards are 250mm (10") wide. If I position them under the boat, about 2" inside the chine I should have about 2250mm (7'6") overall width. I have figured that if I use 185/65R14 tyres with these guards and using AL-KO torsion axles I can expect a keel to ground clearance of about 575 mm (23") and 8" of prop clearance.
Would really like to hear your comments on best keel attitude for launching. My figuring so far has been done keeping the keel parallel to the ground which is somewhat relative to the bootstripe.
ozzieboat

Hi Rich,
What is the make of your trailer?
Thanks

AYE DOCK was launched today.
Jeff Dorber with Contnental did the custom design work on the trailer for the Lo Volt design the boat literly pops off the trailer like a cork and slides on the trailer with a glove fit.

The stern rudder is set for a clearance of 14 inches. This gave me plenty of room the clear the slope of my drive way with 2 inches to spare.
We also felt it kept the prop and rudder a safe distance from the road suface.

The side bunks were retofit after the construction to make sure of the fit. They are also angled to the chime of the boat to correctly move the boat to the exact center of the trailer since the boat has no keel.

The bunks the boat is resting on are also angled upward to allow the boat to easily slip off and enter the trailer easily.

The extension of the folding forward tongue allows the boat and trailer to enter the water without the car having to also enter the water. This extension also allows easier and better control with backing the trailer. ( The boat and trailer easily now fit in the garage.)

If you have more question you can contact Jeff at:
Continental
5176 126th Ave.
Clearwater, FL 33780
Tele: 800 842-4164
E-mail jdtrailerguy@aol.com

Jeff with AYE DOCK on the trailer.


Starboard view:


Stern view:


Hope this helps

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

I don't recommend products unless I have tried them. I have redone my 24' Mastercraft trailer with bunks from Ultimate Bunk Boards dot com. Now I have mentioned it here before hat I was going to try them but no one really was interested. Well after trying hem I am more that satisfied with the results. Now I tell you this ole boat I have is HEAVY and was heck to get on and off he trailer with normal bunks. I installed bunks from UBB and what a dream!

Now there was discussion in an earlier thread that someone was worried about these boards scratching the bottom. Well that was a great point so I called Joe at UBB and spoke with him. You see the durometer of the plastic bunks is softer than gel coat so it won't scratch. Now since most of yawls boats have epoxy on the bottom I'm sure you would be OK. One way to try this, if you're interested would be to call Mr Joe at UBB and see if he would mail you a sample to run through some test. You could put together a test piece simulating the bottom of your boat and then rub the heck out of it to see if it scratches.

I have been on and off my trailer several times now and very happy with my UBB. just DO NOT UNHOOK until you get in the water! They are that slick!