Glen-L.com

yes i am still alive and yes there is still the intention of finishing this build....

now i have cut all the frame members and want to start notching for the battens, keel, sheers and chines.
But i am a bit confused about the dimensions of the notches.

the notches for the battens i have drawn out and i think i am OK there; have taken from the centerline 12" to each side for the first batten and another 11" from there for the second. In that way the most outside batten meets nicely with frame nr 5 (meaning it will extend well past it and leaving sufficient space in between the chine)
The keel is clear and straight forward for the notching (taking in account a plywood lamination on top)

But... the sheers and chines i find difficult to draw out the notches. This because of the curves and thus changing depth of the notches.
Should i just take the complete thickness + height of both the sheers (2x1/2"=1" by 2") and chines (2x5/8"=1 1/2" by 2") and have the corners meet with the outside lines of the side frame member and bottom or deck frame member respectively? this would allow me to fair back the sheers and chines to the contour of the frame. Correct?

question 2 = the chine is build up of 2 laminations of 5/8" which start overlapping from frame 4 going towards the stem. This i presume cannot be notched beforehand but should be done while bending in the chines and adjusting the notches accordingly? or can i forget about the overlapping and pre-cut the notches as described above?

i tried looking up the answer in other posts but could not find an answer.

Thanks for any advise...


AMPlas

I would lay the battens over the frames and veriy positioning. Remember to measure from the center of the keel. Measure carefully and check your math. 5/8X2=10/8 or 1 1/4 not 1 1/2. Also verify the exact thickness of our battens for the depth of the notch. If you get them to sit flush there will be less overall fairing to do later. There's enough of that already.

Always remember, measure once cut twice.

euh yes, 10/8 makes 1 1/4 and not 1 1/2..... thanks for that

Just an impression of one of the frames;

Cut the notch for the keel first. Measure the thickness of the keel and each batten at the center point on the frame, then mark and square it on both sides of center to half the width on each side. You will want to cut a small arc to the bottom on botth sides of the keel and each batten as "scuppers" for water drainage to the transom. The transom notches should fit but not too snuggly. The chine and sheer notches can be done the same way but do not need the scuppers for drainage. Measure them at the widest point allowing for the angle at both the chine and sheer. Cut the notch widths a little short. You will want enough material to protrude to allow for fairing for the bottom and deck. The frame you posted is straight on both sides so it is a matter of just marking the depth and width of the chine and sheer notches correctly and cutting your notches. They should fit comfortably in the notches.

It's not rocket science, just marine architecture.

OK, thanks for that. Turns out its indeed no rocket science!

just took some common sense and a bit of imagination of the whole thing being assembled and than just created some sawdust;


Thinks i figured out the overlapping chines as well;


Also managed to cut the 4" wide keel out of a 6" piece;


Had to redo 1 of the bottom members of frame number 5, after laying it out on my template had a 1/4" gap between the members;

So recut it and fits like a charm now. Suppose these kind of things take extra time now but will save me a lot of headache on the way.

Will take some extra time to think it all through myself next time before posting questions....

Just remember. The only stupid question is the one you never ask. We've all been in your place at least once. Sometimes the answer is there; but we don't see it and need a little input. And sometimes when we know, or think we know, the answer it doesn't hurt to get another opinion. That is why this forum is here.
BTW You might want to open each of your keel and batten notches at each frame on both sides to allow water drainage to the transom. "scupper holes" Some plans call for a small notch on the under side of the battens just inside the transom for the water to drain toward the keel. The only place they need to fit snug is at the transom frame. The water doesn't need to go any farther, only out through the bilge pump or the drain plug.

thanks Pamelalynne1.

finished the motorstringers as well. All cut to shape for the flooring and the notches cut slightly tight to be made to fit when installing the frames.
Loved to work with the hand planner and the chisels. Used them to shape the motorstringers and the notches after a rough cut with the jigsaw. I have never build anything out of wood so working with these kind of tools is a first of for me.

Did you remember what I said about scuppers? Each frame needs to be notched wider than the batten and keel on both sides enough to allow the water to drain past the frames to the transom. If you do not allow for drainage water will be trapped between the frames and will cause you lots of grief. At the top of your notch instead of going straight down cut a slight arc away from the batten and keel on both sides. It only needs to be wide enough to allow for DRAINAGE.

yes, got that one.
will make the scruppers on the outside of each notch only, so on the chine side only and the keelside stays square/closed. The keel gets scruppers on both sides. I dont see need for scruppers on both sides of the battens. Or am i missing something here?

than like you say, there is the need for scruppers in the battens itself at the transom to allow the water to flow to the keel/drain plugs. This is not stated in the plans. But i suppose it has no significant effect on strength of the battens?

You are correct. The drains (they are also called limbers) is only needed on the chine side of the battens and both sides of the keel.
Here are the ones I put on my Malahini, which is similar in size to the Ski King. I added them with a router after the battens were installed, but they could also be cut before installation.

I think the Glen-L boatbuilding book also mentions adding drains at the underside of the battens at the transom to drain water to the keel. Here is how they look.

The book also recommends reinforcing the battens above the notch, so I epoxied another 1/2" of oak on the other side of these notches.

_________________
________________
Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/

Don't forget to seal/encapsulate the notches before you apply the planking

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

WAIT TO CUT the batten notches until you have the frames hanging on the motor stringers...That way you can lay the battens out and clamp them down and use them for the guide for cutting, by marking them out...Same with the keel...Also, I've said many times add at least one more batten each side...They give you more bottom strength...I used 3/8" ply on the bottom, and it was difficult to end around the stem...2 layers of 1/4" would be easier to form....1/4" on the sides is plenty, but the bottom takes a beating...
When you do the chines and shears, I used double 3/8" or 1/2" (laminated) layers (to make 3/4 to 1" thickness) for the shears and chines as they get difficult to bend and twist near the front...There is a pretty good twist near the stern for the shear...Stand back and imagine it and you'll see what I mean. I tried to keep a minimum thickness or 3/4" on the shears and chines, 1" would be better, as when fairing you lose some thickness....Any other questions my em is rzrrider1@squarewavz.com, or 503-631-7238...Dwain, the SKIIIIIIIII KIIIIING...