Lee's Monaco utility build

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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denbrlr
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Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:06 am
Location: Peoria, IL

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

I might go ahead and build a stem cap into the boat even though I plan on putting a cutwater on. I feel like it will make the front stronger because there could be a few epoxy voids in my planking.

The first layer of planing on the starboard side is done :) That means, the first layer of planking is done except for sanding, filling any gaps, etc. in preparation for the second layer.

Lee
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denbrlr
Posts: 543
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:06 am
Location: Peoria, IL

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

I am getting closer to starting on the second planking layer on the bottom. I will be cutting the first piece soon. Installing the first layer of planking revealed the imperfections of my fairing job. Most areas are actually pretty good but my side battens towards the stern (where the severe curves are) are not as good as I thought. The planking attached solidly to all side battens but there wasn't as much contact surface as I had hoped in some places. I probably will add some epoxy fillets on the inside to ensure a solid connection.

Lee

Ian Lytle
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Location: Franklin, MI

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Ian Lytle »

Lee,
I'm new to the forum and I'm getting ready to start my Monaco build (have plans, getting work space organized and will be getting my 1st load of lumber in the next few weeks). Watching your build closely and I have really enjoyed it. Thank you for all of your detailed posts.
Ian

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

The first piece of bottom (second layer) planking is on. I went ahead and attached one big piece to start like I did on the first layer. That was a lot of epoxy to spread so it was a little scary :shock: I encapsulated both surfaces first and then thickened the epoxy and spread it on the hull. I am using System Three Silvertip with the slow hardener. That stuff has a working time of 45-50 minutes so it ended up working fine.

Lee
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mrintense
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by mrintense »

I am just fascinated seeing thee cold molded process progress. This really seems like the ideal way to plank a boat. Strong and light. Looking great Lee.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

denbrlr
Posts: 543
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:06 am
Location: Peoria, IL

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Thank you Carl. It is a slow process but it for sure will make for a strong hull when done.

Lee

Idigplanes
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:52 am
Location: Newburgh Indiana

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Idigplanes »

Hi lee, I’m over in southern Indiana just getting a riviera build started. All my frames are built, still in half sections. I’m wondering about coating them with cpes right of the bat. Do I need to stain them first? And any type stain work ok? I’m not finding a lot of my questions answered in the plans or the books I’ve purchased. I’m pretty new to this short of a couple pirots and row boats I’ve built.

Idigplanes
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Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:52 am
Location: Newburgh Indiana

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Idigplanes »

I realize I misspelled pirogue. Don’t want to get kicked off here for such a foul mistake on a boat forum!

denbrlr
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Location: Peoria, IL

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Ian,

Good luck with your build. Building a boat is a lot of fun.

Idigplanes,

Your frames do t need to be stained but they do need to be encapsulated with epoxy. Some people like to use CPES before using encapsulating epoxy and some just use encapsulating epoxy. I like the use of CPES before epoxy for some parts at least. I didn’t do this on my frames because I didn’t think of it. Glen-l poxy shield or system three silver tip are good options for encapsulation. Probably at least two coats. Poxy shield will blush (amine blush) so you need to wash with soap and water between coats if that happens.

Lee

Idigplanes
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Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:52 am
Location: Newburgh Indiana

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Idigplanes »

Lee I was considering staining the frames as I’m not sure if parts of them will be visible when finished. When staining the hull is that done prior to cpes? I’m seeing a lot of different ideas people have on here about epoxy.

denbrlr
Posts: 543
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:06 am
Location: Peoria, IL

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Idigplanes,

I understand. That will definitely make your frames more pretty :) Here is a link to some discussions about staining and using CPES. http://www.smithandcompany.org/staining.html It is from the company that makes CPES. If you scroll down to close to the bottom, it discusses three methods depending on your wood and what effect you are looking for. After you follow one of these three methods, the you would use encapsulating epoxy. Again, I would use at least two coats.

Lee

denbrlr
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Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:06 am
Location: Peoria, IL

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

To more directly answer your question, you would apply CPES after staining. I believe you need to use an oil based stain. One of the methods talks about applying CPES before and after staining but I don’t think you need to do that with new wood.

Lee

Idigplanes
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Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:52 am
Location: Newburgh Indiana

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Idigplanes »

Thanks Lee. I’ll take a look at the site. Any idea how much epoxy will be needed? What I’ve read indicates the proxy shield can be used for glueing with a thickener added and the bulk amount has a pretty decent discount. I’m assuming I’ll certainly use that much.

Idigplanes
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:52 am
Location: Newburgh Indiana

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Idigplanes »

I think the bulk amount mixes 5 gallons.

denbrlr
Posts: 543
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:06 am
Location: Peoria, IL

Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

I have used ~2.5 gallons of poxy shield and ~1.5 gallons of poxy grip so far. I also just got 1.5 gallons of System Three SilverTip for glueing of the second planking layer. For most of my frame, battens, etc. gluing I used poxy shield but you can thicken poxy grip and use it for gluing. I recommend using the the microspheres filler that glen-l sells. You can thicken with fine sawdust but the microspheres is much more of a consistent filler. Wear a respirator when working with it because it create a very fine dust when you work with it.

You will definitely be able to use 5 gallons of poxy shield for your build especially if you use it for gluing and encapsulating.

Lee

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