Removing 3M 5200

Designs for inboard or outboard power

Moderator: BruceDow

garrys
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: Odessa, Florida (Tampa)

Removing 3M 5200

Post by garrys » Mon Jul 26, 2010 5:29 pm

Following an accident this past weekend I need to replace the prop shaft STRUT on my Monaco. It's taken me 8 hours work just to get access to the strut and now I'm worried about how to "break it loose" from the bottom of the boat. Originally I bedded it in with 3M 5200 sealant and that stuff sticks like crazy. I don't want to risk breaking off pieces of wood from the pad where the strut is mounted as the strut allignment is critical and I really need to maintain the integrity of the pad. I'm guessing there is no such thing as a 5200 "remover", right? Nor anything that will "soften" it up. I guess I'm going to have to carefully chisel and pry.........and pray............for a sucessful outcome. If anyone has some helpful hints, I'm all ears!

Oyster
Posts: 4431
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:10 pm
Location: North Carolina

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by Oyster » Mon Jul 26, 2010 5:44 pm

If nothing else, try some gasoline. 3m makes an adhesive remover too which may get you started until you can get prt of it coming. Those wide and rigid putty knifes are pretty tough and I don't see any problems with the pad if you stay between the glue and strut.
Try some gasoline on the edge and see what happens.

slug
Posts: 1447
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:49 am
Location: Colborne ON Can

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by slug » Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:02 pm

It may prove to be a little messy, but I'd try heating the putty knife up and try to slide it between.
Doug

User avatar
billy c
Posts: 2402
Joined: Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:59 pm
Location: NH
Contact:

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by billy c » Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:28 pm

if you can get a putty knife or similar under one edge of the strut base and hull to start a small groove, you can then use a piece of piano wire (guitar string would work :wink: ) and it will slice thru the 5200 like butter.
-Billy
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 11671
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by Bill Edmundson » Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:34 pm

Billy C

I like that one. I'll store that one.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

User avatar
DaveLott
Posts: 3688
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:50 pm
Location: Branson, MO
Contact:

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by DaveLott » Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:53 pm

Garry - Sorry to hear about an accident. What happened to you?

I was at a boat repair shop this past week where a Malibu style boat ran too close to the shore and rolled 3 fins and his prop not to mention the holes in the hull.

The shop is now up to $20,000 in repair costs.

Heck we can build a whole boat for that!!!
Dave

Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project
Glen-L Sea Kayak
Mahalo Standup Paddleboard

Video of Midnight in Action

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

garrys
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: Odessa, Florida (Tampa)

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by garrys » Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:27 pm

How it happened...........I was cruising with my girlfriend and her family on the Homosassa River. We were in a "Manatee Zone", idle speed only. The river has channel markers, red and green triangles on top of posts. I guess due to budget cuts, when one post rots and disappears the county (?) doesn't have the money to replace it. I was cruising in one of those spots on the river where there were no visible channel markers, so I stuck to the middle of the channel. All of a sudden there was a big metalic "bang". The motor stopped immediately as did the boat too. I knew I had hit something big and hard. Due to the murky water I couldn't see below the surface to identify what it was. Following some choice curse words and a change of underwear, I restarted the engine which seemed to run fine. I carefully put it in gear and it seemed to idle off fine. Upon reaching the "non-idle" section I began to advance the throttle but knew immediately that the prop was severely damaged as horrible vibrations ensued. I idled back to the boat ramp and recovered the boat onto the trailer for further inspection. Two of the blades on the prop were bent badly. The rudder looked ok and the prop shaft looked ok. A closer look at the prop strut revealed two big cracks. More cursing ensued at that discovery.

Due to the design of the Monaco, access to parts for repair is a chore. I removed the rear seats, the seat frames, the side panels, the floorboards, and the bulkhead. Then I had to remove the fuel tank with it's associated hoses and sensor wires. Next was to drop the rudder out, pull off the prop, and begin to remove the prop shaft. Well..........the flange at the front of the shaft simply wouldn't come off. To the rescue came "Oyster", who suggested putting a small socket between the engine and prop flanges, then draw the flanges together with the four bolts which "pushes" the shaft rearward and out of the flange. Yes, it worked, but involved about 5 hours of tedious work in a very cramped working area. I now have the prop shaft removed and a very sore back.

I'm taking the shaft and the prop to my local prop repair shop tomorrow. They will repair the prop and check the shaft to insure it's not bent. I'll reorder a new strut from Glen-L............assuming I can get the old strut off without damaging the bottom of the boat. Thank you all for your suggestions. I'll likely be trying all of them!!!!!!!!! And I'll post the results of my efforts tomorrow.

User avatar
raymacke
Posts: 748
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 7:07 pm
Location: Marissa, IL
Contact:

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by raymacke » Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:33 pm

Try this link - http://www.marineformula.com/ They claim it will remove 5200. I have never used it so can't attest to its success.

I will say I don't use 5200 very often. Normally when attaching things I am looking for a good "sealant" but my thought is there is a very good chance what ever I am sealing at some point I may want or have to remove. And with 5200 that's a real problem. For me 4200 makes a lot more sense. Still a great sealant for above or below the waterline but can be removed with a lot less work than 5200.
So Many Rivers,
So Little Time....

garrys
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: Odessa, Florida (Tampa)

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by garrys » Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:54 pm

RayMacke.....thank you for the reference. I went to their website and it looks great! I ordered some immediately. From their demo video and customer testimonials, it looks like this stuff is the answer to my prayers! Thank you again!

Oyster
Posts: 4431
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:10 pm
Location: North Carolina

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by Oyster » Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:01 am

May I suggest that you take the shaft coupliing and if its easy the output coupling with you and have the shaft coupling flange trued up on the shaft after the shop straightens it and rechecks it.

garrys
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: Odessa, Florida (Tampa)

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by garrys » Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:57 am

Good idea. I'll do that!

garrys
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: Odessa, Florida (Tampa)

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by garrys » Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:50 pm

Reporting back on removing my 3M 5200 "stuck" prop strut............I struggled for several hours with a hardware store "remover" and lots of knives, spatulas, chisels, etc., trying to free up the strut. No luck at all. I finally received via mail, my "Marine Formula" by Debond as suggested here on the forum. I squirted some around the perimeter of the strut, waited a few minutes, and it popped right off. Terrific stuff and it really works..........without any damage to my bottom paint, varnish, or wood. I am SO HAPPY!

I received a new strut from Glen-L, and will pick up the prop, shaft and coupler tomorrow from the machine shop. Then we'll be putting everything back together again. Thankfully there was no damage to the hull. Thank you to everyone on the forum who gave me valuable advice and suggestions!

Garry

upspirate

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by upspirate » Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:56 pm

Yea!!! Don't forget,give me a call if you need help on the other side of the bolts!!

User avatar
DaveLott
Posts: 3688
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:50 pm
Location: Branson, MO
Contact:

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by DaveLott » Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:01 pm

That is great news Garry. So get her ready and hike on up to the G next month
Dave

Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project
Glen-L Sea Kayak
Mahalo Standup Paddleboard

Video of Midnight in Action

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 11671
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Removing 3M 5200

Post by Bill Edmundson » Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:28 pm

Garry

Thanks for the update. I'm sure almost all of us will some day need to know!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Post Reply

Return to “Power Boats”